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	  pawsTopic[1] = "Balding Pigs Have Owners Stumped";
	  pawsTopic[2] = "Dogs Need Love, Not Treats";
	  pawsTopic[3] = "Red Pepper Spray Can Deter Cats";
	  pawsTopic[4] = "Dog Won't Stop Jumping Up";
	  pawsTopic[5] = "Dog Makes Odd Breathing Noise";
	  pawsTopic[6] = "Did Guinea Pig Suffer Heart Attack or Stroke?";
	  pawsTopic[7] = "Small Dog, Small Bladder";
	  pawsTopic[8] = "Head of the Class";
	  pawsTopic[9] = "More Than One Way to Leash a Cat";
	  pawsTopic[10] = "Hurricane Kit for Pets";
	  pawsTopic[11] = "When Wildlife Gets Too Close";
	  pawsTopic[12] = "Doggone Good Advice";
	  pawsTopic[13] = "First Aid for Pets";
	  pawsTopic[14] = "Pukey Cat";
	  pawsTopic[15] = "Dog-Proof Your Home";
	  pawsTopic[16] = "Economy Puts Strain on Pet Owners";
	  pawsTopic[17] = "Shih-tzu Is Biting Herself Crazy";
	  pawsTopic[18] = "Old Tricks for New Dog";
	  pawsTopic[19] = "Chew on This";
	  pawsTopic[20] = "How to Correct a Pet Owner";
	  pawsTopic[21] = "Do Dogs Smile?";
	  pawsTopic[22] = "Pineapple Cures Potty-Mouth Dog";
	  pawsTopic[23] = "Was Mom Guilty of Cruelty?";
	  pawsTopic[24] = "Will Feral Cat Ever Calm Down?";
	  pawsTopic[25] = "Dogs and Joggers";
	  pawsTopic[26] = "Ongoing Ear Infection Frustrates Dog Owner";
	  pawsTopic[27] = "What about tomatoes?";
	  pawsTopic[28] = "Where There's a Will...";
	  pawsTopic[29] = "Betta Fish Didn't Have to Die";
	  pawsTopic[30] = "Smiling Borzoi Is Not Alone";
	  pawsTopic[31] = "New Dog Isn't Like Old One";
	  pawsTopic[32] = "Vacation Home or Kennel?";
	  pawsTopic[33] = "Old-Time Remedy for Ear Infection";
	  pawsTopic[34] = "Parents, Kids and Pets";
	  pawsTopic[35] = "Foreclosures Take Toll on Owners and Pets";
	  pawsTopic[36] = "Reader: Don't Allow House Pets to Breed";
	  pawsTopic[37] = "Reader Scolds Dog Owner's Dad";
	  pawsTopic[38] = "Fleas, Fleas, Everywhere";
	  pawsTopic[39] = "Give Kids Another Chance for Pet";
	  pawsTopic[40] = "Shedding a Problem With Mixed Breed";
	  pawsTopic[41] = "Renters Should Respect Landlords' Pet Rules";
	  pawsTopic[42] = "Picking a Great Dog Trainer";
	  pawsTopic[43] = "Teaching Puppy Not to Bite";
	  pawsTopic[44] = "Adopting a Cat";
	  pawsTopic[45] = "The Right Pet Food";
	  pawsTopic[46] = "Why Don't People Like My Dog?";
	  pawsTopic[47] = "Topical Treatments for Flea Prevention";
	  pawsTopic[48] = "What If Cat Eats Poisoned Mouse?";
	  pawsTopic[49] = "A Tale of Two Dogs";
	  pawsTopic[50] = "Owner Won't Take Cat to See Vet";
	  pawsTopic[51] = "Plan Ahead Before Traveling With Pet";
	  pawsTopic[52] = "Traumatized Kitten Needs Lots of Love";
	  pawsTopic[53] = "Flea-Fighting Plants";
	  pawsTopic[54] = "These Scammers Use Puppies as Bait";
	  pawsTopic[55] = "Keeping Pets Safe in Summer Heat";
	  pawsTopic[56] = "Buckle Up Pets for Safety";
	  pawsTopic[57] = "Cat's Litter Box Looks Like Mud Bog";
	  pawsTopic[58] = "Dog Grooming 101";
	  pawsTopic[59] = "Yes, You Can Groom a Cat";
	  pawsTopic[60] = "Wet Nose, Dry Nose";
	  pawsTopic[61] = "Lonely Guinea Pig Needs New Playmate";
	  pawsTopic[62] = "Farms Aren't Dog Dumping Grounds";
	  pawsTopic[63] = "Drying Dog's Ears After a Swim";
	  pawsTopic[64] = "Hyper Dogs, Blind Cat Highlight Fall Books";
	  pawsTopic[65] = "Dog's Constant Licking Isn't Just Gratitude";
	  pawsTopic[66] = "AKC Can Clarify Dog-Show Rules";
	  pawsTopic[67] = "Cat Suddenly Stops Using Litter Box";
	  pawsTopic[68] = "Cat Can't Stop Licking Woodwork";
	  pawsTopic[69] = "Bulldog Needs Extra Attention";
	  pawsTopic[70] = "Dog Parks";
	  pawsTopic[71] = "Is New Kitten's Behavior Normal?";
	  pawsTopic[72] = "Winter Pet Safety at the New Year";
	  pawsTopic[73] = "Resolutions for You and Your Pet";
	  pawsTopic[74] = "Fox Toy Is Cat&rsquo;s Security Blanket";
	  pawsTopic[75] = "Don&rsquo;t Delay Puppy&rsquo;s Vaccinations";
	  pawsTopic[76] = "Top Dogs";
	  pawsTopic[77] = "Shepherd Wants Food All to Herself";
	  pawsTopic[78] = "Cat Fight Won&rsquo;t End";
	  pawsTopic[79] = "Bad Smell Often Indicates Illness";
	  pawsTopic[80] = "Don&rsquo;t Try This With a Cat";
	  pawsTopic[81] = "Don&rsquo;t Cage Cat";
	  pawsTopic[82] = "Introducing New Dog to Cats in Residence";
	  pawsTopic[83] = "Treating a Cut Paw";
	  pawsTopic[84] = "Pets and Allergies";
	  pawsTopic[85] = "Neighbors Fear Miss Itzy";
	  pawsTopic[86] = "Easter Baskets and Pets Don&rsquo;t Mix";
	  pawsTopic[87] = "Second-Guessing Dog&rsquo;s Death";
	  pawsTopic[88] = "Lost Pet Leaves Heartbreak Behind";
	  pawsTopic[89] = "Should Dogs Roam School Playground?";
	  pawsTopic[90] = "Young Collie Obsessed With Animal Droppings";
	  pawsTopic[91] = "Dog Life Vests, Safety Belts";
	  pawsTopic[92] = "Barking, Whining Annoy Dog Owner";
	  pawsTopic[93] = "Help Kitty Think Inside the Box";
	  pawsTopic[94] = "Pug Smells Really Gnarly";
	  pawsTopic[95] = "Train a Cat? It&rsquo;s Possible";
	  pawsTopic[96] = "Hot Cars Are Death Trap for Pets";
	  pawsTopic[97] = "How to Avoid Dog Bites";
	  pawsTopic[98] = "One Dog Gets the Bed, the Other the Floor";
	  pawsTopic[99] = "Helping Dachshund to Improve Her Aim";
	  pawsTopic[100] = "Know the Signs of a Sick Cat";
	  pawsTopic[101] = "&ldquo;X&rdquo; Marks the Spot";
	  pawsTopic[102] = "Vet Must Find Cause of Dog&rsquo;s Mouth Ulcers";
	  pawsTopic[103] = "Summer Reading";
	  pawsTopic[104] = "Dog&rsquo;s Marking Doesn&rsquo;t Do Deck Any Favors";
	  pawsTopic[105] = "Asthmatic Cat Needs Veterinarian&rsquo;s Opinion";
	  pawsTopic[106] = "Hot Spots Are Pesky Skin Condition";
	  pawsTopic[107] = "Cat&rsquo;s Aim Is Off the Mark";
	  pawsTopic[108] = "Treating Pet&rsquo;s Mouth Ulcers";
	  pawsTopic[109] = "The Cat Who Came In From the Fire Escape";
	  pawsTopic[110] = "When Pets Can&rsquo;t Shoot Straight";
	  pawsTopic[111] = "Warts Keep Puppy Home From Day Care";
	  pawsTopic[112] = "Dogs, Dogs, Dogs";
	  pawsTopic[113] = "The Cats That Couldn&rsquo;t Shoot Straight";
	  pawsTopic[114] = "There&rsquo;s a Bear";
	  pawsTopic[115] = "Why Do Dogs Eat Dirt?";
	  pawsTopic[116] = "When to Call the Vet";
	  pawsTopic[117] = "Do Home Flea Remedies Work";
	  pawsTopic[118] = "Fleas Aren&rsquo;t Always Obvious";
	  pawsTopic[119] = "Cat Goes Everywhere But the Litter Box";
	  pawsTopic[120] = "Canine Influenza vs. Kennel Cough";
	  pawsTopic[121] = "Think Twice Before Adopting a Pet";
	  pawsTopic[122] = "Fleas Aren&rsquo;t Only Cause of Itching";
	  pawsTopic[123] = "Love Thy Neighbor? Not These Dogs";
	  pawsTopic[124] = "Trimming Around Dog&rsquo;s Ears";
	  pawsTopic[125] = "Dog&rsquo;s Nails Cut to the Quick";
	  pawsTopic[126] = "&lsquo;Schnauzer Bumps&rsquo; Are a Kind of Acne";
	  pawsTopic[127] = "Putting the Kibosh on Nuisance Barking";
	  pawsTopic[128] = "Here&rsquo;s How to Take Better Pet Photos";
	  pawsTopic[129] = "Bad Breath";
	  pawsTopic[130] = "Shelters Need Your Help";
	  pawsTopic[131] = "Pet Ownership";
	  pawsTopic[132] = "Don&rsquo;t Sweat the Vet";
	  pawsTopic[133] = "Excitable Puppy Needs Training";
	  pawsTopic[134] = "Midnight Rambler";
	  pawsTopic[135] = "Big Cats";
	  pawsTopic[136] = "Cat Intimidates Owner&rsquo;s Grandson";
	  pawsTopic[137] = "Kids Need to Care for Their Dog";
	  pawsTopic[138] = "Cat Washes Paws in Water Bowl";
	  pawsTopic[139] = "Spring Heralds Start of Flea Season";
	  pawsTopic[140] = "Costly Shots Leave Cat Owner Wincing";
	  pawsTopic[141] = "Choosing a Family Pet";
	  pawsTopic[142] = "Dog Leaves His Mark While Owners Sleep";
	  pawsTopic[143] = "Oxygen Hose Is No Chew Toy";
	  pawsTopic[144] = "Choosing the Right Doggie Day Care";
	  pawsTopic[145] = "Boy Wants a Dog, But Mom&rsquo;s Allergic";
	  pawsTopic[146] = "Are Pets People, Too?";
	  pawsTopic[147] = "Cat&rsquo;s Taste for Plastic Could Signal Diabetes";
	  pawsTopic[148] = "Best Dog Breeds for Allergy Sufferers";
	  pawsTopic[149] = "Are Pets People? These Folks Say Yes";
	  pawsTopic[150] = "Affordable Pet Care";
	  pawsTopic[151] = "Pets Grieve, Too";
	  pawsTopic[152] = "Pet Odors: When Funk Attacks";
	  pawsTopic[153] = "Don&rsquo;t Remake Pets Into Children";
	  pawsTopic[154] = "Dogs Help Bring Neighbors Together";
	  pawsTopic[155] = "Itchy Skin Plagues Pot-Bellied Pigs";
	  pawsTopic[156] = "Tips to Save Money on Pet-Care Costs";
	  pawsTopic[157] = "Know Your Pet&rsquo;s &lsquo;Safe Area&rsquo;";
	  pawsTopic[158] = "To Crate or Not to Crate?";
	  pawsTopic[159] = "Dog Tormented by Allergies";
	  pawsTopic[160] = "Pets are Important Part of the Family";
	  pawsTopic[161] = "A Little Personal Space, Please";
	  pawsTopic[162] = "Learn Your State&rsquo;s Pet Evacuation Laws";
	  pawsTopic[163] = "Dog Eats Nonstop";
	  pawsTopic[164] = "Humidifier May Help Dog&rsquo;s Skin Allergy";
	  pawsTopic[165] = "Puppy Isn&rsquo;t Growing";
	  pawsTopic[166] = "Constant Barking Gets on Neighbors' Nerves";
	  pawsTopic[167] = "Are Strays a Threat to Housecats?";
	  pawsTopic[168] = "Keep Pets Safe This Halloween";
	  pawsTopic[169] = "A Dog&rsquo;s Reading Room";
	  pawsTopic[170] = "Fight Skin Allergies With Custom Pet Foods";
	  pawsTopic[171] = "Senior Dogs Need Extra Attention";
	  pawsTopic[172] = "Winter Is Rough on Pets&rsquo; Paws";
	  pawsTopic[173] = "Can Cats Overdose on Catnip?";
	  pawsTopic[174] = "Dog&rsquo;s Cough a Worry";
	  pawsTopic[175] = "Outing a Sore Spot for Nosey Dog";
	  pawsTopic[176] = "Bride Wants to Use Dog in Wedding";
	  pawsTopic[177] = "Pets to the Rescue";
	  pawsTopic[178] = "Can Rabbit be Trained?";
	  pawsTopic[179] = "Adopting Dogs From Puppy Mills";
	  pawsTopic[180] = "Animal Advocates";
	  pawsTopic[181] = "Cat-Proofing Your House";
	  pawsTopic[182] = "Dog Hates Bathtub";
	  pawsTopic[183] = "Be a Responsible Pet Owner";
	  
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var pawsText = new Array();
	pawsText[1] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I own two potbellied pigs. They have a lot of hair loss. Last year Penny, age 5 years, lost most of hers. Now it's 2-year-old Norman's turn. I was told it could be from a poor diet, but these guys are like my kids. They eat good-quality stuff: top-grade hay and potbellied pig pellets. They hardly ever get junk food; instead, they get treats from our garden, like fresh cooked squash, carrots, beans, etc. They have a very nice barn with lots of straw and good hay. They have a choice of lying in dry dirt, on a mud spot or in a pool of fresh water. I was told to put watered-down baby oil on them. This seems to make it worse. Can you help? -- Diane and John O., on Little Moose Farm</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DIANE AND JOHN</strong>:<br> \
	Since their diet is varied and well-rounded, it's probably not the cause of this periodic hair loss. Stress might be a factor -- changes in season, extreme temperatures, pregnancy or any change in their routine can bring on sudden hair loss. In the potbellied pig community, it's called &quot;blowing their coats,&quot; a phenomenon when pigs lose most or all of their hair in a very short time. It seems to occur more often after a stressful event, but some potbellied pigs blow their coats every year. The hair regrows over a period of months. I would consult their veterinarian and bring them in for skin tests to rule out conditions like a parasitic infection. Depending on the results, the vet may prescribe medication, or recommend supplements to their diet like fish oil or vitamin E. To make both pigs more comfortable, treat their hair and skin with Skin-So-Soft (made by both Avon and Heartland) and rub Norman's coat daily to encourage loose hairs to fall out faster.";
	pawsText[2] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I just read your column about rewarding dogs with &quot;treats&quot; for good behavior. Treats are fine if you're teaching them to sit up, roll over or jump through a hoop. In my almost 80 years I've had many dogs that were all well-mannered without giving them treats. A pleasant voice, a big hug, a pat on the head and &quot;good dog&quot; work nicely as a reward. My reasoning is that you don't give your children candy when you are teaching them proper behavior. My dogs get treats when they least expect one. That's a &quot;treat&quot;! I've shown dogs in dog shows and never &quot;baited&quot; them with treats. Being in the show was a treat, because we were having fun. We won many ribbons and &quot;Best of Breed&quot; without them. Being a champion is its own reward! Dogs are smart, and they sense your feelings, whether it's fear, anxiety or pleasure, and react to your attitude and body language. Kindness, patience and consistency work well without using treats. The real reward for a dog is being loved and cared for. Sincerely, -- K.H.S., Fairport, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR K.H.S.</strong>:<br> \
	You're welcome, and thanks for the tip! I would also recommend that cat owners who have plants in their homes that are dangerous to cats make sure they are lifted well out of the reach of their pet. I'll even go so far as to say that no plants from the lily family should be in the home, period. No repellent is 100 percent effective, especially from a determined cat. For those who missed the link to the Cat Fanciers' Association Web site, here it is again so that you can review the list of poisonous plants: <a href="+'catPlantLink'+" target="+'catPlantLinkTarget'+">www.cfainc.org/articles/plants.html</a>. Well, I can't argue with that. Great advice, and something to consider when training your dog, whether for basic obedience or for a show. You said it all, and I thank you!";
	pawsText[3] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	In a recent column, you described a cat that became extremely ill after ingesting a lily plant. You suggested distracting a cat from poisonous plants with a nearby tray of catnip, or a favorite toy. I have a really great tip for discouraging cats -- and most other critters -- from chewing on plants, furniture or whatever you don't want them to chew on. Try mixing a few teaspoons of ground red pepper in a spray bottle full of water, then spray the item you want the cat to leave alone. Saturate the item and leave it to dry. This also works for outdoor plants and flowers to keep wild critters away from them. The smell alone repels most animals. Just make sure not to touch your eyes after applying! Also, thank you for the Cat Fanciers' Association Web site, where you can find the list of plants dangerous to cats. -- Stephanie L., Lawrenceburg, Ky.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR STEPHANIE</strong>:<br> \
	You're welcome, and thanks for the tip! I would also recommend that cat owners who have plants in their homes that are dangerous to cats make sure they are lifted well out of the reach of their pet. I'll even go so far as to say that no plants from the lily family should be in the home, period. No repellent is 100 percent effective, especially from a determined cat. For those who missed the link to the Cat Fanciers' Association Web site, here it is again so that you can review the list of poisonous plants: <a href="+'catPlantLink'+" target="+'catPlantLinkTarget'+">www.cfainc.org/articles/plants.html</a>.";
	pawsText[4] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog &quot;Farley&quot; is a big, friendly Golden Retriever. He loves to jump up on people when they come in. Unfortunately, the people don't like it very much, and I worry about him knocking down smaller kids. I tell him &quot;no&quot; each time, but he still does it. How can I get him to stop jumping up? -- Betty S., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BETTY</strong>:<br> \
	K.H. Scott, a reader who recently wrote in, offers some sound advice on teaching dogs not to jump up: &quot;I found that if you hold its front legs up so it's just standing on its hind legs for a much longer time than the dog likes, looking it in the eyes and saying 'Don't jump,' works very nicely. &quot;I only had to do that twice with my neighbor's dog before he learned what I meant. Now, when he comes toward me I just say, 'Don't jump.' When he doesn't, he gets a pat on the head, a scratch behind the ears, and 'Good dog!' I get a good licking and a wagging tail instead of being almost knocked over.&quot; So, give that a try. When Farley jumps up on you, hold his paws gently and keep him standing up -- usually 10 seconds is long enough for a dog to become uncomfortable. Then let him drop down onto all four paws. You also can instruct friends or frequent visitors to do the same. Be sure to praise him when he stays on all four paws at your command.";
	pawsText[5] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Recently, I had my 9-year-old, part-poodle/Maltese dog's teeth cleaned. The vet had to pull two teeth as well. Since this was done, &quot;Scoobie&quot; seems to make an odd noise as he is breathing. I feel like this is due to the tube they put down his throat as they cleaned his teeth. When I got him home, he had a hacking cough, which subsided about three days later. But the noise he makes when breathing continues. He doesn't seem to be in pain, though. I like our vet a lot and hate to question him, so hopefully you can help me out or let me know what I could ask the vet. -- Valeeta R., Montgomery, Ala.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR VALEETA</strong>:<br> \
	A good veterinarian will not mind extra questions from a pet owner, so I encourage you to contact your vet and describe Scoobie's breathing noise. In fact, you should go ahead and bring Scoobie in to have the vet check out the noise in person so he can rule out any serious issues. Pets that are put under general anesthesia for certain procedures (such as the tooth scaling Scoobie had) can develop complications afterward ranging from stress reactions to major health emergencies. Don't be worried about bothering your vet -- your dog's health is the most important thing here. Ask lots of questions, and insist on straightforward answers from the vet -- not answers designed just to make you feel better. If afterward you feel that you didn't receive satisfactory answers, or if Scoobie doesn't improve, take your dog to another vet for a second opinion.";
	pawsText[6] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I had a 3-year-old guinea pig named &quot;Rocky,&quot; and a few months ago he died. The way it happened was, first he was staring at our fish tank. Then all of a sudden he flipped over onto his back and started to shake. After he stopped shaking, he was breathing but he couldn't get up. Unfortunately at that time, we couldn't do much because it was a school day. When my father came home to check on him, he had died. What do you think happened to him? -- Abigail O.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR ABIGAIL</strong>:<br> \
	I'm sorry to hear about your pet. While I can't be sure what went wrong with Rocky, I suspect that he either had a heart attack or a stroke. Guinea pig expert Peter Gurney, author of numerous books, including &quot;Piggy Potions&quot; (Kingdom Books), and a Web site, &quot;The A to Z of Guinea Pigs&quot; [http://web.onetel.net.uk/~petergurney/atozmainpage.htm] describes heart attack symptoms as the guinea pig being too weak to stand, often lying flat on its side, giving &quot;great heaving breaths&quot; and having a weak and slow heartbeat. A guinea pig that has suffered a stroke will usually be paralyzed down one side of its body, with its head tilted at an acute angle to its body, and its eyes may have rapid jerky movements. The reason an owner should differentiate between the two is that, particularly in the case of a heart attack, the sooner the guinea pig gets emergency treatment the better chance it has of surviving. It sounds like you were observant of your pet's behavior prior to his becoming ill. Guinea pigs can show few overt signs of deteriorating health. Owners must watch for symptoms like a loss of appetite (one of the biggest signs), weight loss of just a couple ounces, subtle changes in behavior or changes in the animal's coat and eyes. Any of these should warrant a call to the vet and a visit within 24 hours. Acute symptoms like Rocky's are emergencies, and the guinea pig should be taken in immediately.";
	pawsText[7] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Maybe you can help me. I got my dog from Animal Control four years ago. &quot;Terry&quot; is a Schnauzer-Terrier mix and was quite hyper, but is starting to calm down. She can be kind of strange at times. Not only does she squat to urinate, she will lift her leg. I've never seen a female do that before. Also, as many times as she urinates outside, she ends up going inside during the night. Do you have any idea why she might do that? -- Loretta, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LORETTA</strong>:<br> \
	I'm not sure why Terry both squats and lifts her leg to pee, but I have seen females do this before. So, let's chalk it up to preference for now. The indoor, overnight urination and frequent urination during the daytime does concern me. You should take Terry to the veterinarian to rule out a urinary-tract infection or other physical problem such as kidney disease. Try to note any other out-of-the-ordinary actions for the vet: Does she drink a lot of water? Has she lost weight? Does her coat look dull or patchy? Does she appear distressed when urinating? If Terry's health checks out, the next step is modifying her schedule and habits a bit. Small dogs have small bladders, so add a couple of extra trips outside daily -- just before you go to bed late at night, and the absolute first thing in the morning. To discourage peeing, she should sleep in an enclosed space -- a room or gated-off area -- with her doggie bed, toys and water. Also reduce the amount of water in her bowl overnight -- about a cup should do. If the nighttime urination isn't resolved, add a pee pad to the enclosed sleep area and train Terry to use it. But continue to adhere to her walk schedule. As Terry becomes accustomed to the schedule, she should become less prone to go at night.";
	pawsText[8] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a few dogs, including a Chihuahua. &quot;Jasper&quot; is different from the rest of them. Now, I don't believe in training a dog except for housebreaking, but one day when I was playing with Jasper he started to pick up hand signals without me teaching them to him. None of my other dogs will follow basic commands -- sit, stay, etc. -- but Jasper knows all of them. Do you know how he learned all of these tricks? Can a dog just pick something up? -- Morgan M., Orange, Conn.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MORGAN</strong>:<br> \
	Dogs pick up a tremendous amount of information from us, usually without us realizing it. If we display bad habits around them -- allowing them to jump up on strangers, or losing our temper when they get playful -- then they will quickly pick up on and exploit those habits. I'll bet even the dumbest dog in your household knows how to push your buttons to get what it wants. It's instinctive; it's one of the things dogs do best. Now, Jasper is probably one of the smartest dogs in your house. Maybe not the smartest -- the dog that has figured out it can ignore your commands without consequence and then demonstrated that to the other dogs is the smartest dog in your house right now -- but Jasper is pretty darn smart. And eager to please. And he sees you as his pack leader, the one he needs to please in order to get food and comfort (something that a small dog in a house full of pooches is worried about). So you have an instant advantage in training Jasper. He can and should learn more advanced commands. But do not ignore your other dogs' training, either. One of those dogs sees itself as the pack leader right now. Figure out which one it is, and establish yourself as the head of the pack -- this includes restarting basic obedience and enforcing &quot;house rules&quot; with all your dogs.";
	pawsText[9] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read your column on cats wearing leashes and wanted to tell you our experience. Our cat, &quot;Baby,&quot; is not allowed out of the house without her halter on. She goes to the door and meows when she wants out. Baby has a 20&ndash;foot leash that we attach to posts placed strategically around the yard for her comfort. She lets me know exactly which one she wants to be on. We keep a water bowl handy for her, and she has plenty of shade, room to roam without becoming entangled, and comfortable places to relax. When she&rsquo;s had enough of being outside, she meows for me to come get her. At 5 p.m., she will sit extended to the end of her leash and meow for her &quot;walk.&quot; My husband takes her for one every night. She will go to the end of our property, lie down and wait for him to pick her up and carry her back! No dummy, is she? She is very aware of her limitations, and in four years has never tried to go to the street. She likes being outside, but does not want to be anywhere where she can't see us. In turn, we don&rsquo;t put her outside unless one of us is at home to check on her. I would say she is trained, but I believe it is the other way around. Yes, there is a lot of &quot;let me out,&quot; &quot;let me in,&quot; but to my way of thinking, if you can&rsquo;t treat an animal as part of your family, you shouldn&rsquo;t have one. Their needs are like a child&rsquo;s: love, warmth, food, exercise, a safe home and more love. -- Jill T. in New York</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JILL</strong>:<br> \
	True words, there. Cat training is more often than not a cooperative venture, and it appears that you and your cat have worked out a way to use the leash that&rsquo;s acceptable to both. Kudos to you!";
	pawsText[10] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We're at the height of hurricane season here in the South, and I wanted to tell you about how I prepare my whole family, including our two dogs, Sadie and Sassie, in case a hurricane approaches. I keep a &quot;hurricane kit&quot; -- a tote bag and a cooler -- in the entry hall next to the garage. In the tote bag is one change of clothes for each person in the family (my kids are out of diapers thankfully, but if they weren't, a big case of diapers would be included) and copies of our most important documents (house papers, doctor and vet information, etc.), along with a couple of books and coloring books, a hand-cranked radio/flashlight and a small first-aid kit. A smaller bag tucked into the big tote has my dogs' necessities: two extra collars and leashes, extra medications, extra ID tags, a copy of their vet records, a couple of chew toys, a small bag of treats and two folding water bowls. In the cooler is two gallons of water, nonperishable food and snacks. In June of each year I go through the kit, throw away expired food and medications and restock. I also buy an extra case of water and store nearby. My family knows the routine to follow if an evacuation order is issued -- my sons will get the dogs while my husband loads the hurricane kit and extra water into the van, and I grab wallets and keys. It seems like a lot to go through for a storm that usually doesn't come, but we have had to evacuate before and use our &quot;lessons learned&quot; to stay ready. One important thing is, don't bring the kitchen sink! Put only necessities into the kit to get through one to three days without food, water or a change of clothes. And always include your pets' needs when putting the kit together. -- Morgan C., Jacksonville, Fla.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MORGAN</strong>:<br> \
	Thank you! Another important thing is to ensure your pets can be found if you get separated. A set of ID tags on their collar with contact information is helpful. Many owners also &quot;chip&quot; their pets, and while some owners are still ambivalent about this practice, it has proven invaluable during disasters in helping pets that have lost their collars get back to their owners.";
	pawsText[11] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My neighbor &quot;Gladys&quot; will put out food for any wild creature that happens by her back porch. I'm not talking about a few songbirds: She is putting out food for raccoons and squirrels, has a big block of salt in the back corner of her yard for deer, and who knows what else. I think this is dangerous because it makes these animals come into her neighbors' yards looking for food, and they might hurt our pets or our kids! Should I report her to someone, like animal control? -- Anonymous but Annoyed</p> \
	<strong>DEAR ANONYMOUS</strong>:<br> \
	Here's a question: Have you talked to Gladys about your concerns? I know the political maelstrom that is modern suburbia tends to preclude this seemingly obvious step, but it is important to find out if Gladys even realizes that her actions could have negative consequences. And by talking to her, I don't mean standing in her line of sight while she's outside and yelling &quot;Nyah nyah, I'm telling on you!&quot; Save that for those tension-filled summer evenings after she blames you for the homeowners' association letter asking her to stop -- but wait, I'm getting ahead of myself. First you have to ask her nicely. It's the neighborly thing to do. Then you bring it up at the next HOA meeting. If the community agrees with you, a letter can be issued to Gladys by the homeowners' association. Contacting animal control -- if there is no immediate danger -- should be done only if Gladys does not respond to yours or the HOA's requests. The department may issue a civil infraction (punishable by a fine) if they receive enough complaints. Animal control should always be called if there is an imminent threat by an animal, or if a pet or wild animal is in immediate need of assistance.";
	pawsText[12] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I attended a dog show recently as a spectator. I'm interested in showing my dogs, but am only just investigating the process and learning all the ins and outs. I was amazed at how much incorrect information about the rules was being given out by other spectators (and even owners who were showing). One woman was afraid to groom her dog shortly before their event because she'd been told that if the judges saw her grooming him, they would disqualify them! Please remind your readers who enjoy or compete in dog shows to review the show's rules beforehand and to ignore (or at least confirm) secondhand information! Just a pet peeve of mine. Thanks. -- Janine T., via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JANINE</strong>:<br> \
	You told 'em! While rules vary by show, it does no good for an already-nervous participant to listen to hearsay. There is genuinely good advice to be had from other participants, but always keep a copy of the rules at hand, too.</p> \
	<p>***</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My uncle says I should use a choke collar on my dog in order to train him right. What's a choke collar? -- Brad in Ohio</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BRAD</strong>:<br> \
	It's something you shouldn't use on your dog in order to train him right. Pick up a book like &quot;Treats, Play, Love: Make Dog Training Fun for You and Your Best Friend&quot; by Patricia Gail Burnham, and learn about positive obedience training methods that don't involve yanking your dog around or choking him just to get him to heel. You won't regret it.";
	pawsText[13] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I sometimes worry about what I would do if my dog or two cats were badly injured -- hit by a car or bitten by a wild animal from the woods out back. We live several miles from the nearest veterinary clinic. Other than stopping bleeding, I don't know much else about how I would help them. Do you have any suggestions on where I can find out about given emergency care? -- Frank L., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR FRANK</strong>:<br> \
	The American Red Cross, while better known for supplying information on people first aid, offers two pet books -- &quot;Dog First Aid&quot; and &quot;Cat First Aid,&quot; available online at www.redcross.org. The books give basic information on treating injured or ill pets immediately, and tell you how to stock a &quot;pet first-aid kit&quot; that should be kept within easy reach. The organization also offers a pet first-aid course at some of its chapters nationwide. Check the above Web site or contact the nearest Red Cross chapter for available classes. The book and course can be invaluable for recognizing signs of illness or injury in your pets, and providing immediate care -- including CPR -- until you reach a veterinary clinic. While waiting for your first-aid books to arrive, it's a good idea to write the veterinary clinic's phone number in an easy-to-remember place (or put on speed dial) and to find out the clinic's hours and the veterinarian's schedule. Ask the clinic how it handles after-hours emergencies -- you may need to drive quickly to an alternative vet clinic. Knowing what to do in an emergency can provide tremendous peace of mind.";
	pawsText[14] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My cat pukes all the time. Well, not constantly, but at least once a day &quot;Jimmy&quot; will cough up part of his dinner. Afterward he seems perfectly fine. Why does this happen? -- Bill T., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR FRANK</strong>:<br> \
	Cats do vomit a bit more than what we might consider normal for us. However, puking every day indicates a possible problem. Even though Jimmy seems fine after each episode, take him to the veterinarian right away to be checked out. The vet will ask you if you noticed anything in the vomit -- yes, you have to look -- particularly blood, undigested food, fur or foreign objects. He or she may ask you to bring a sample along (or maybe not -- ask when you call). You'll be asked to describe Jimmy's behavior before and after the vomiting episode, and his general behavior during the day. Cats are very good at hiding illness. That's why owners need to look for out-of-the-ordinary behavior. Even something as simple as an otherwise friendly cat that suddenly runs and hides. Or a cat that suddenly meows all the time (or stops meowing completely). Or changes in the appearance of its coat. Even if Jimmy's health checks out, keep a close eye on him. Those puke sessions indicate something is up. He may not be digesting his food well -- if he only eats dry food, try alternating a couple times a week with fresh steamed chicken or shrimp. Make sure he has plenty of water at all times -- cats will drink when they're thirsty, but won't overindulge. If you see clumps of his fur in the vomit, and/or Jimmy has a lot of &quot;hairball&quot; wheezing sessions, start brushing out his coat daily to reduce the amount of fur Jimmy picks up during his self-cleaning sessions.";
	pawsText[15] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a new puppy, and &quot;Jake&quot; keeps getting into everything -- garbage, pantry, laundry, you name it. He's a big chewer, too. How do I get him to stop? -- Frank S., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR FRANK</strong>:<br> \
	Regular obedience training, along with increased attention, will help Jake stop exploring so much. However, healthy dogs never lose that urge to explore anything that smells so darn interesting (garbage, laundry, the pantry, you name it). So you've got to limit his access to those areas. Remove garbage from the living areas of the house every day -- place it in the big containers outside (or in your garage) and seal the lid against intrusion. Seal the pantry -- if it has no door latch, attach a short bungee cord from the cabinet knob to a screw-in hook you place in the frame, so you can latch and unlatch easily. Put your shoes away in a closet or close your bedroom door. It's especially important, no matter how well your dog is trained, to not leave anything lying around that you don't want him to get at. Food, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolate, sharp objects or medication are big no-nos. Do place chew toys around the areas that Jake is allowed to inhabit. This gives him a healthy focus for his natural chewing tendencies. Now back to the increased attention. Take time every day -- an hour at least -- to train and play with Jake, outdoors or indoors. Puppies have lots of restless energy, which will fuel their curiosity, so help him work it off. In return, you'll get a much better bond with Jake, and a well-trained dog.";
	pawsText[16] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I live on a fixed income, and with rising prices and this poor economy, I worry about being able to pay the bills. The one thing I never want to skimp on is caring for my two cats, Farley and Socks. But I am worried about having enough money for vet bills should they fall sick. What can I do? -- Gloria in Los Angeles</p> \
	<strong>DEAR GLORIA</strong>:<br> \
	These really are worrisome times, and pet care can fall by the wayside when pet owners are trying to pay for necessities. However, there are low-cost services available for pet owners, especially in big cities. The American Animal Hospital Association (www.aahahelpingpets.org), through its Helping Pets fund, can help pay for part or all of a pet's veterinary care. Larger pet hospitals often offer programs for pet owners with limited means. Universities that teach veterinary medicine might offer discounted services. Contact one in your area and ask what programs it offers. Keep an eye out for coupons and discount programs offered by local veterinary clinics. These offer things like free office visits and discounts on routine services. Senior services in many towns and cities organize sessions to give rabies shots and other necessary vaccinations, for free or little cost. In short, there are programs out there to help owners pay for their pets' medical costs, but they are not always widely advertised. The best thing to do is start looking for low-cost care options now, while your pets are healthy and you have time to sift through the information. Talk to your regular vet and friends who have pets, call your city or county animal shelter and senior services department, ask the manager of your favorite pet store -- there are many resources available.";
	pawsText[17] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	What would make my shih-tzu bite her tail? I noticed that &quot;Mitzy&quot; was constantly trying to nibble her own tail. When I looked closer, I found a hard lump and a small cut that was draining. She bites at it worse at night. Mitzy has no fleas, but she does have dry skin. What's going on? -- Alice H., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR ALICE</strong>:<br> \
	Without knowing exactly where the lump is located, I can't say for certain. It goes without saying that any change in a dog's behavior, or anything odd that you notice on your pet (such as a new lump or a draining cut) should prompt you to visit the veterinarian as soon as possible for a thorough checkup. Some dogs, regardless of breed, suffer from chronic dry skin. But dry skin can be a herald of a deeper health problem, such as a thyroid condition, which can only be determined through a blood test. So, the best thing to do, again, is mention it to Mitzy's vet when you bring her in to have the lump checked. The vet may do a biopsy to determine whether the lump is benign. He or she also will ask you a number of questions about Mitzy's daily behavior: how much and how often she eats, if she is drinking and urinating more than usual, if the dry skin has been a problem for a long time or if it's recent, any known food allergies or health problems, and so on. If there are no underlying problems, the vet may recommend that you try a change in Mitzy's diet (he or she will give you some options) to treat her dry skin. You can also add an Omega 3 supplement to her food -- the vet may have this available, or you can purchase the supplement at a pet store.";
	pawsText[18] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a new dog! What are some basic tricks I can teach her? -- Tammy J., Huntsville, Ala.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR TAMMY</strong>:<br> \
	Congratulations on bringing home a new member of the family! There are many tricks you can teach a dog to perform, but I'll cover just three. These should be taught following basic obedience training (which includes sit/stay and down commands). Each session should last about 30 seconds; let her play for a while afterward.</p> \
	<p>Shake Hands: Popular and easy to learn, this is a nice skill for puppies to have, especially when visitors arrive. Begin teaching Shake Hands after she has developed a good response to the Sit/Stay commands. Once she is sitting, pick up one of her paws gently, release it and give her a treat. Do this for a couple of days, and then add a verbal command, like &quot;Shake hands&quot; or &quot;Say hello.&quot; Give her a reward after you say the command.</p> \
	<p>Play Dead: Another easy trick, once she follows the &quot;Down&quot; command, you can progress to &quot;Roll Over.&quot; Give her the &quot;Down&quot; command, and note which side she leans toward. Gently push her over onto that side, and give her verbal praise and a belly rub. Follow up with a reward.</p> \
	<p>Roll Over: Once she masters &quot;Play Dead,&quot; start from that position. First, desensitize your puppy by rubbing her belly and touching her legs and feet while she's in the Play Dead position. Once she's used to this, give the command &quot;Roll over,&quot; take hold of the back and front legs closest to the floor, and very gently pull her over to the opposite side. (If she gets frightened or is in pain, stop immediately.) Reward her with a treat or toy. (Or, tempt her around with a treat: Show her the treat, then slowly move it up around the back of her head to the other side. She may follow it around, rolling over automatically.)</p> \
	No matter what trick you teach your dog, she'll love the attention, so make this training a regular part of your day!";
	pawsText[19] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My neighbor's puppy has a ton of toys that he chews on all the time. Is this healthy? -- Joe E., Atlanta</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JOE</strong>:<br> \
	Yes, as long as the toys are specifically made for dogs. Chewing is an instinctive activity for dogs that keeps their teeth and jaws healthy and strong. For puppies, chewing not only helps them develop properly, but it also eases the discomfort of teething.</p> \
	<p>A dog will chew on anything that looks chewable -- as many a dog owner has ruefully discovered after finding a favorite pair of shoes in shreds. So keeping many safe chew toys within the dog's reach, and featuring chew toys and tug ropes (thick, braided short ropes you can hang onto while the dog pulls at the other end) during play and training will help ease that urge to chew on everything.</p> \
	<p>Safe chew toys do not shred or shatter when a dog sinks his teeth into them -- something you don't want to happen, as shards can cut a dog's gums, and swallowing debris can cause serious health problems. So owners should buy only approved toys that are appropriate for their dog's age and size. A Great Dane shouldn't be chewing on a toy sized for a Chihuahua, and likewise, a toy poodle might have trouble gnawing on a toy sized for a Doberman.</p> \
	Remember also that owners (and those who will have dogs coming over to visit) should put away any objects they don't want chewed. Shoes, children's toys, plants, newspapers -- you name it -- should be placed in a room or closet that can't be accessed by the dog. A floor clear of everything but a few strategically placed chew toys is ideal.";
	pawsText[20] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My son and his girlfriend have two Pomeranians. One is an 8-year-old female, &quot;Sassy,&quot; which the girlfriend had before they got together. The other is a male, &quot;Junior,&quot; now about 21 months old. Junior is considered my son's dog, and he disciplines him by flipping him over on his back and scolding him. Now the dog growls and bares his teeth at my son if he comes near him. The dog was very loving at first. What do you think about this, and how can it be fixed? -- Rod S., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR ROD</strong>:<br> \
	It's clear that you don't approve of the way your son disciplines his dog, and I agree with you -- that's a terrible way to correct a dog. There are ways to show dominance without threatening your pet.</p> \
	<p>Part of the issue is that Junior is a Pomeranian, a breed that can be quite temperamental. Pomeranians also can become very neurotic in the wrong kind of environment. Certainly, not all Pomeranians are ill-tempered and neurotic, but they are small dogs -- energetic and excitable -- that often don't tolerate lots of people or loud noises.</p> \
	<p>I don't have a lot of advice for you, unfortunately. Junior has some issues, but there are no clear signs of neglect or abuse. And your son probably will not listen to advice you have to give -- he might even be insulted that you think he's treating Junior wrong.</p> \
	The best that you can do is lead by example. When visiting, be very calm and soothing around Junior. If the dog's behavior interferes with your visit, kindly ask your son to place Junior in another room until the visit is over. If you have a dog, treat him or her as you normally would whenever your son visits, but don't preach. I guarantee he is watching how you treat your dog.";
	pawsText[21] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	How do dogs learn to smile? Years ago, I adopted an 8-year-old Borzoi that had been terribly abused. &quot;Frank&quot; was a very fearful dog, but with lots of patience and TLC, he calmed down quite a bit and even accepted my other dog, &quot;Farley.&quot; One evening while lying on the couch, Frank looked at me and bared his teeth. I thought he was snarling at me, but when I asked another Borzoi owner about it, he said Frank was smiling! Does a dog relate &quot;happy&quot; with smiling? -- K.H.S., Fairport, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR K.H.S.</strong>:<br> \
	Normally, when a dog appears to be &quot;smiling&quot; he either really is baring his teeth (and growling, which is <em>not</em> a happy sound) to warn someone off, or his demeanor -- slightly open mouth, tongue hanging out and a general air of happiness -- makes one think he is smiling even if it's not a genuine &quot;human&quot; smile.</p> \
	<p>But I thought that an experienced owner saying that a dog was actually smiling was unusual, so I looked up some information on the breed. And indeed, the Borzoi (or Russian Wolfhound) has this neat little trait: The submissive gesture for this gentle giant of a dog is to curl back his lips and expose his teeth. The &quot;smile&quot; on a Borzoi looks so much like a snarl that most strangers will quickly back away.</p> \
	So, kudos to you on bringing Frank around, from a shy abuse victim to a loving companion who returned to the natural behaviors of a Borzoi: lounging on the couch and enjoying the company of his family. Thanks for a great story.";
	pawsText[22] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I was at a friend's house when I read your column about the &quot;potty-mouth dog&quot; (a dog that liked to eat his own and other animals' droppings). My dog &quot;Sandy&quot; used to have this disgusting habit too, but I cured her of it. I placed a piece of pineapple in the droppings. (I used canned, chunk pineapple and cut it into even smaller pieces.) I don't know why this worked, but it did. After a few days of eating pineapple-laced poo, Sandy wanted nothing more to do with droppings. Hope this tip helps, and happy &quot;clean mouth&quot; to that dog! -- Bill O., Sullivan, Ill.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BILL</strong>:<br> \
	That's definitely a new method to try. I would exercise caution in using common &quot;human-safe&quot; foods as a deterrent to copraphagia (stool-eating). While pineapple is not on the list of foods that are dangerous to dogs, it is a citrus fruit high in sugar, which might upset their stomachs. So, as illustrated above, cut the pineapple into very small pieces and use sparingly.</p> \
	<p>Other techniques that are effective in stopping this annoying habit include sprinkling the stool with hot pepper sauce or spraying with a commercial solution designed to make the stool taste terrible to the dog.</p> \
	Training the dog to &quot;go&quot; in a designated area, in addition to standard obedience training, is another method to deter stool eating. Picking up waste immediately after the dog &quot;goes&quot; is another solution. But it's likely that most dog owners will need to use a combination of techniques to limit or stop the habit.";
	pawsText[23] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I need to comment on a letter by a mom who let her children be responsible for two Betta fish that they let die. Children should never be responsible for any animal! It's the parents' responsibility to care for them. Why should the animal suffer? It's fine to learn by example, but the parent is the one who should care for the animal. This woman is guilty of animal cruelty in letting these fish suffer and die. An animal is not a toy. People like this woman don't deserve the companionship of any animal! -- Tina V., PETA member</p> \
	<strong>DEAR TINA</strong>:<br> \
	I can appreciate your point of view, and I'm sure that none of my readers condone the suffering of any pet. I think that you missed the point of that letter: the mother refusing to let the kids have another pet after they let their Betta fish die due to neglect.</span></p> \
	<p><span>Part of growing up is learning responsibility, and learning the consequences of failing to take responsibility. The consequences of failing to take care of their Betta fish was that they could not have another pet.</span></p> \
	<p><span>Could the mother have stepped in and taken care of the fish? Possibly. I don't know all the circumstances, and the sad fact is that small fish can go downhill very fast when signs of distress are missed. But she gave those kids responsibility and gave them her trust to care for those fish. This is a very important part of child-rearing.</span></p> \
	<p>You cannot wrap your kids in cotton until they're 18; they need to learn certain things if they're to be at all useful.</p> \
	<span>Learning to care for another living creature is one of the most important lessons in a child's life, and I'm not going to stand in judgment of a mother trying to teach that lesson.";
	pawsText[24] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I live in a senior community. In my backyard garden earlier this year, a feral cat had a litter of kittens. Some of us ladies decided to trap the kittens and have them spayed or neutered before releasing them back into the wild. We managed to trap two: My neighbor kept one, and I kept the other. My neighbor's kitten has adjusted well, but my kitten, Stripes, is not calm yet. If I talk to her in calm tones, she will stay in the room with my two other cats, but when I move just the slightest bit, she darts out of the room. Is there something I can do to calm her down? -- Helene H., Geneseo, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR HELENE</strong>:<br> \
	I, too, for many years had a half-feral cat whose behavior as a young cat was exactly the same as Stripes'. Dodge passed away two years ago, but by the time he reached his senior years, he had become a loving and trusting cat, although never a &quot;lap cat.&quot;</p> \
	<p>You are taking the right approach in speaking calmly and moving slowly. It is a great help that you have two fully tame cats. Stripes is observing their behavior closely, believe me, and she will begin copying their patterns, including how they interact with you.</p> \
	<p>It took several months to get close enough to Dodge to pet him. I would toss a bit of steamed shrimp his way, then toss the next bit closer. Over time he got close enough for me to scratch his head, and then to pet him gently.</p> \
	Accept that Stripes might never be a highly sociable cat. But she can learn to trust you, and that's important. Here's wishing the best to you and your pets.";
	pawsText[25] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog, &quot;Sandy,&quot; gets very excited when people pass us while we're out walking. She is not mean, but she likes to bark and tries to paw at or jump up as people get close. Sandy gets particularly excited when a jogger passes us. How can I stop her from doing this? -- Bill in Boulder, Colo.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BILL</strong>:<br> \
	Getting Sandy adjusted to all the exciting activity on the sidewalk will take some time. Start by honing her basic obedience skills at home, making sure she will respond to your commands. On your daily walks, have her sit and stay at random times. When a jogger approaches, move to the side of the walk, and have Sandy sit andstay. (Of course, keep her on a leash at all times during walks.) </p>  \
	<p>Next, teach her not to react to sudden movements. At home, put Sandy on a leash. Throw a tennis ball across the room or hallway and say &quot;Off!&quot; or &quot;Nyaah!&quot; When Sandy leaps to chase the ball, tug the leash firmly and repeat &quot;Off/Nyaah!&quot; When Sandy responds to your command, praise her. </p> \
	<p>Repeat this exercise in other locations, indoors or out, with few distractions. Try it with other objects, or a willing friend who can play the &quot;jogger.&quot; </p> \
	Finally, add the command during her daily walks -- when a person approaches, use the command if she starts toward them. You may need to sit Sandy down at first and wait for the person to pass, giving the &quot;Off/Nyaah!&quot; command if needed. But gradually begin training her to obey this command from the heel.";
	pawsText[26] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My little dog &quot;Sandy,&quot; a 3-year-old Shih Tzu, has had an ongoing ear infection for the past four months. The vet said it was a yeast infection and gave me some drops for it. It cleared quickly, but within two weeks it was back again. This time the vet suggested I change his dog food, along with giving him the drops again, so now he is on a grain-free dog food. It cleared up for a while, but it is back again. Any suggestions on what to do now? -- Donna, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DONNA</strong>:<br> \
	Keep trying! Continue working with your vet to find a solution to Sandy's recurring ear infections. It may take a combination of treatments to stop them from happening, including a change in diet (such as the prescribed grain-free diet), drops or oral medication.</p>  \
	<p>Signs of an ear infection in a dog typically include head shaking, yellow or brown &quot;gunk&quot; in the ears, a yeast-like smell, redness and swelling. Causes include debris or water in the ears, allergies, or unexplained factors. </p> \
	<p>Shih Tzus are prone to ear infections because of the shape of their ears, and because of the long hair growing over the ears -- fluids don't drain from their ears as easily. Owners must clear the hair from their dogs' ears frequently and must be sure to dry their dogs' ears after swimming or bathing.</p> \
	Dogs like Sandy who have repeat infections may benefit from having the hair clipped away from around their ears (let the veterinarian do this). Sandy may be given a long-term course of treatment, too -- usually oral medication. In severe cases, vets may recommend surgery to reconstruct the ear canal to improve drainage, but this should be considered only when other avenues have been exhausted.";
	pawsText[27] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	In your Dec. 8 column, you listed foods that were not good for dogs, among them avocados and tomatoes. My Chihuahua loves avocados, tomatoes, broccoli and many other veggies (without salt, of course). Please tell me why avocados and tomatoes are not good for them. -- Diana, via e-mail</p> \
	<p> I recently read your article on foods for dogs to avoid, and was curious about the tomatoes.  I raise miniature pinschers, and one day as I was cutting up tomatoes I gave them some.  I had two tomato vines out in my backyard and for the rest of the summer I did not get any more of them, as the dogs ate them as soon as they would start to ripen.  It never hurt them at all.  I have heard of chocolate but never tomatoes. -- MaryAnn W., via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR DIANA &amp; MARYANN</strong>:<br> \
	In dogs, tomato plants (leaves and stems) can cause tremors and heart arrhythmia (an irregular, rapid or &quot;fluttering&quot; pulse); the fruit itself is not listed as toxic by the Humane Society of the United States, but I would keep dogs out of the tomato patch at all times and feed them very limited amounts of the fruit.</p> \
	<p>Avocados can cause breathing difficulties and fluid accumulation in the chest, abdomen and heart. All parts of the avocado - the fruit, the pit and the plant - are toxic. This fruit is also toxic to cats, birds, mice, rabbits, goats, horses and cattle.</p> \
	A more complete list of toxic foods is available at the Humane Society Web site at <a href="+humanesocLink+" target="+humanesocLinkTarget+">http://www.hsus.org</a>";
	pawsText[28] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Is it possible to include a pet in your will? I saw all the controversy about Leona Helmsley's dog inheriting her money on TV. I'm not rich at all, but I do want my two Chihuahuas and my parakeet &quot;Bobby&quot; to be well cared for if I should pass before them. -- Beryl in Ormond Beach, Fla.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR BERYL</strong>:<br> \
	It is possible and, in fact, recommended. The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association estimates that 69 percent of American households own at least one pet. Of the 2.4 million Americans who die each year, statistically, many of those who pass away are pet owners.</p> \
	<p>Even if we aren't wealthy, we still leave stuff behind when we die, including (and especially) pets. Adding a pet to your will is important -- it's less about leaving the pet your money as it is about making sure a pet will be cared for after you're gone.</p> \
	<p>The online estate-planning service ItsMyLife.com (<a href="+petwillLink+" target="+petwillLinkTarget+">www.itsmylife.com</a>) recommends that pets be protected in writing, as part of your will. Verbal agreements can easily be forgotten. </p> \
	<p>The company is offering its &quot;Pets Letter of Wishes&quot; for free through Valentine's Day, and its other estate-planning documents are available at a reasonable price. </p> \
	You don't have to go through a service -- you can add a provision for your pet in your existing will, or create a will, simply by writing out your wishes on paper and having a witness agree to and sign it. But I recommend an attorney look over any will, regardless of how or where it was made, to make sure it can be carried out with few problems.";
	pawsText[29] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I'm writing regarding the column about the children who didn't take care of their pet fish. It seems to me that the consequence of failing to take care of the Betta fish was that the fish died. Teaching the kids to be responsible is a wonderful thing; the parent was not being responsible. I didn't see the original letter, but apparently the fish wasn't being fed. The mother should've put it in her routine to accompany the kids daily to their pet-care chores and verify they were being accomplished. If the kids didn't want to do those chores, she could've given the fish away. And if she was unable to fit overseeing the pet care into her schedule, she should have never gotten the fish in the first place. I'm not accusing the mother of intentional animal cruelty, but definitely of being irresponsible. How can she teach responsibility when she wasn't responsible herself? In the long run, if neglect is the cause of the fish's death, she, not the children, is responsible. On the positive side, she is correct to not allow the kids to have another pet. Good for her on that count. -- Beth</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR BETH</strong>:<br> \
	That's a sensible answer, Beth, and thanks. I got quite a few letters on this issue, many fairly hysterical. While I don't condone the death of a pet due to neglect, I'm also quite sure the mother felt badly about what happened. If she didn't, she wouldn't have asked me for advice on getting another pet.</p> \
	That leaves one remaining question for my readers: How can her children prove to her that they are ready for another pet?";
	pawsText[30] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	After reading your article about the &quot;smiling&quot; Borzoi, I want to tell you about my smiling Border Collie. &quot;Jamie&quot; will walk up to me with bared teeth, looking for a pat or a backrub. A smile and a head shake tells me she wants to go outside. There also is the &quot;hangdog&quot; look with bared teeth when she knows she has been naughty. No growls, just smiles. Sometimes when I call her to come inside she looks at me, smiles and trots in the other direction! I wish I could read her mind. Jamie is such a quick study. Smartest dog we have ever adopted. -- Carol F., Conesus, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CAROL</strong>:<br> \
	Thank you for sharing that! Jamie sounds like a real character, all right. A dog's &quot;smile&quot; often indicates submissiveness, and certain breeds like the Borzoi actually bare their teeth when they smile. This is fairly uncommon in most other dogs -- if you're not familiar with a dog that is baring its teeth, back away. Still, Border Collies are indeed very smart dogs and quick studies. They also just have that bright, alert, happy attitude that is the mark of a healthy Collie. I have a feeling that Jamie figured out that whenever she &quot;smiles,&quot; she gets a positive response from you (a backrub, or a trip outside, or another treat). Either way, it's definitely a good deal on both sides, as you know when Jamie wants something (and can read signals as to what exactly she wants), and Jamie knows how to ask!";
	pawsText[31] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Our beloved mutt &quot;Pistol&quot; was put to sleep a year ago after battling cancer. Two months ago, my son and I adopted a new dog, &quot;Skyler,&quot; who is mostly Swiss mountain dog and we're not sure what else. Skyler is about 3 years old, and I'm not sure if he's adapting well to his new home, He barks furiously at the slightest noise and barks constantly at any visitors. Pistol was never like this, and he also was an adult adoption. How can we get Skyler to settle down? -- Janet in Kansas City, Mo.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JANET</strong>:<br> \
	Well, first, remind yourself that Skyler and Pistol are two different dogs, and that -- as adult adoptees -- you don't know what either of their upbringings were like. As a different dog, Skyler will have a different personality as well, and that also determines how he reacts to new noises and people. It's important not to compare your new dog to the old dog. But we often do that with pets -- it's part of the grieving process when we lose a beloved companion. So, be patient with Skyler. He needs time to become accustomed to his new environment, and he needs to be slowly socialized rather than introduced to all your friends at once, which can be quite overwhelming for a pet. He needs regular obedience training and steady, predictable interaction with the household so he will become comfortable with the rhythms and rules of his new life. And, be patient with yourself. Pistol will always be a part of your life, and you will miss him. Skyler isn't a replacement for Pistol; he's a new addition. Give yourself time to get past Pistol's loss and to accept Skyler for the dog that he is.";
	pawsText[32] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	When I'm staying in a rental home at the coast, where is the best place for my dog, &quot;Riley,&quot; to stay: the rental home or a kennel close by? -- Todd Y., Neotsu, Ore.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR TODD</strong>:<br> \
	If you're bringing your dog on vacation with you (which is fantastic, by the way), he should stay with you if at all possible. A kennel tends to be a stressful place for dogs, even if you come to pick him up every day. If you're vacationing in an unfamiliar place, you may not know how well the kennel is run, if the dogs that stay there are kept healthy and happy, and if illnesses like kennel cough are kept to a minimum. Riley will benefit from his owner being with him in an unfamiliar place, particularly at night. So, Riley should stay with you. If you're bringing him on vacation, he should experience the vacation with you. A caveat, however: always get clearance from the rental home's owner before bringing a pet. Vacation-rental agreements often stipulate that no pets are allowed in the house. This happens, sadly, because not all pet owners control their pets, and damage can be done to the rental property. Many rentals that allow pets will charge an extra fee, sometimes per pet, to cover any potential damages. The fee is usually nonrefundable -- but in my experience it's much cheaper than the cost of keeping your pet in a reputable kennel. If the vacation rental you're considering does not allow pets, look for another house in the area. Several sites on the Internet list pet-friendly rentals, including<br> \
	Oregon.com (<a href="+oregonLink+" target="+oregonLinkTarget+">http://www.oregon.com/lodging/pet_friendly.cfm</a>);<br> \
	HomeAway.com (<a href="+homeawayLink+" target="+homeawayLinkTarget+">http://www.homeaway.com/index.cfm/tgt/oregon-pet-friendly-vacation-rentals</a>); and<br> \
	DogFriendly.com (<a href="+dogfriendlyLink+" target="+dogfriendlyLinkTarget+">http://www.dogfriendly.com/server/travel/guides/us/usstateOR.shtml</a>).";
	pawsText[33] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read your column about the Shih Tzu and its problem with ear infections, and wanted to pass on something I learned many years ago from an old-time eye, ear, nose and throat specialist. This also works for children who are prone to swimmer's ear. I had two hunting breed dogs with long ears, and we lived right on the shores of Lake Michigan, so they were constantly having ear problems. What the doctor told me is as follows: Have the patient lie with the bad ear up. Using a plastic eyedropper filled with hydrogen peroxide (dilute peroxide with water before use), gently squirt the contents into the ear. Allow this to bubble for at least a minute. Thoroughly dry the ear, and use Q-tips carefully to clean out the debris. After the ear is as dry as possible, tap Desenex powder down into the ear with the patient lying on his or her side again so the powder gets down into the ear. This may have to be done every other day for a week, but it worked for me -- both with my dogs and my children. I hope this treatment helps &quot;Sandy.&quot; -- Bernie W. in Ormond Beach, Fla.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BERNIE</strong>:<br> \
	This type of treatment is available (for humans) in a kit at drugstores featuring a diluted solution of hydrogen peroxide. I would exercise caution in using this treatment with small dogs, however. I also strongly recommend that owners whose pets are experiencing an ear infection, either for the first time or recurring, go to their veterinarian first to have the ears examined. The vet should test for evidence of ear mites, a yeast infection or other cause. Ear mites can be quickly treated, but recurring ear infections can be trickier -- topical medicines often only treat the symptoms, and the cause, such as allergies, can take more time and effort to diagnose.";
	pawsText[34] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read with interest your recent column about the children whose pet fish died because they didn't take care of it. You asked readers how the children could prove to their mother that they're ready for another pet. I think you're asking the wrong question. You should be asking when is the MOTHER ready for another pet. Being a child is about learning, exploring and having as many experiences as possible. Because they're young, their interests change, often rapidly and unexpectedly. It isn't fair to a child to be forced to look after a living, feeling, thinking being whose requirements don't change (the dog always needs to be walked, for instance) and whose needs are unyielding (the dog will suffer if it's not fed and watered). Furthermore, to make a child responsible for a pet is a poor idea on several counts: The child is set up for failure; the pet can experience discomfort at best, death at worst, from being neglected; and the adult can feel exasperation, annoyance and anger -- at both child and pet. In terms of dogs, no responsible breeder of dogs will sell one of his or her puppies to a family where the children will be that puppy's primary caregiver. Neither will a bona fide rescue group nor a well-run animal shelter. This means that the only avenue by which the family can acquire a puppy is from a BYB (backyard breeder) who is clueless about the goal of breeding -- to produce healthy, to-standard dogs with solid temperaments. The only reason to get a pet is because the adults want one themselves, fully understanding and accepting the reality that whatever help their children provide in caring for that pet is a bonus and is not something on which they can count. Thus, I think you need to rephrase your question. -- Dori, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DORI</strong>:<br> \
	You've stated your case very well, and I thank you.";
	pawsText[35] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a cousin who needs help finding a good home for her three dogs. Her house is being foreclosed on, and she is struggling to find a place to live on a limited income. She has no car, her telephone will only call locally and her computer is on the blink. We contacted the no-kill shelters in our area, but none of them has ever responded. Where else can we find help? -- Desperate in Desert Hot Springs, Calif.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DESPERATE</strong>:<br> \
	The foreclosure crisis has created another crisis in its wake: pets being abandoned by owners who are no longer able to care for them due to financial difficulties, because pets are not allowed in the residences they must rent or other factors. Shelters are near or at capacity in the best of times, and these times are certainly not the best. However, you should continue to try and contact local no-kill shelters. If you can call beyond the local area, become your cousin's advocate and call shelters for her daily until someone responds. Another avenue is to advertise in the local circular that the dogs are available. However, do not say that the dogs are free to a good home. There are reasons for this, which unfortunately I don't have room to list in today's column. Instead, ask for an amount that will cover veterinary and transportation costs for each dog. Insist upon meeting the potential owners. More information on giving up a pet can be found at: <a href="+forclosureLink+" target="+forclosureLinkTarget+">http://www.northbay-canine.org/lastresort2-txt.htm</a>. Because these solutions are iffy at best, your cousin must try and keep the dogs if at all possible. Can you or a family member take in one or more of the dogs? Can you help your cousin find affordable housing that also takes pets? Helping a family member through this sort of crisis isn't easy, and you're a champ for stepping up. Don't give up on finding either a good home for the dogs or a place where your cousin can keep them.";
	pawsText[36] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	It never seems to amaze me. I'm talking about the people who do not get their critters fixed. I know some very educated people whose pets have litter after litter. What are they thinking? Where and when will it end? It is never right or a good thing to allow your critters to have a litter. Never! Take a look at our overcrowded animal shelters. It just breaks my heart at the number of animals they have to put down. These &quot;educated&quot; people tell me, &quot;Oh, I find homes for all my babies.&quot; That's beside the point! If you don't have babies to give away for free, then people will have to adopt a critter from the shelter that is fixed and won't reproduce any more unwanted and unloved animals. Get all your pets fixed! If you can't afford to get them fixed, find a program that will help you pay for it or take them to your local shelter. Please! -- Dee in Palmyra, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DESPERATE</strong>:<br> \
	Thank you for making an important point so forcefully. Litters of puppies and kittens are very cute, but they add to an already huge population of dogs and cats, most of which are never adopted and end up in shelters, where they're often euthanized. Unless you are an AKC-certified, professional breeder, you have no business allowing your pets to procreate. I have heard many excuses from pet owners as to why they don't spay or neuter. &quot;Oh, it would be cruel.&quot; &quot;Oh, my Maximilian would lose his confident personality if he were neutered.&quot; And of course, &quot;My pet is well-behaved and indoors most of the time, so she'll never get pregnant.&quot; Don't let yourself be swayed by these fantasies. Learn the facts about spaying and neutering.";
	pawsText[37] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I am very disappointed by your light-hearted response to the letter written by Rod S. (&quot;How to Correct a Pet Owner&quot;). You start out by blaming the breed of the dog! As if all small dogs get ill-tempered and neurotic, excitable and energetic. Like that's the issue at hand. It clearly is not. You went on to say that the dog's owner has some issues, but that there are no clear signs of abuse or neglect. You're wrong! Clearly there is abuse! You told him the best thing to do is lead by example. So by not telling his son to knock it off and ignoring the real issues here is a good example? You told him not to &quot;preach&quot; to his son. That's about the only thing I agreed with you on. Heck no, I wouldn't preach either. I would tell him straight out he's wrong and if he keeps it up, I would take the dog and give it to someone who doesn't have dominance issues and the need to control. Rod needs to &quot;step-up&quot; and tell his son just like it is. Be a real man, Rod! When something makes you uncomfortable and you think it's wrong, then it most likely is. -- Disappointed in New York </p> \
	<strong>DEAR DISAPPOINTED</strong>:<br> \
	I wrote that the son's &quot;discipline&quot; (flipping Junior on his back and scolding him) was a terrible way to correct a dog. But we'll have to agree to disagree on how the owner's dad should approach the situation. Confronting his grown son and making him angry could cause the son's treatment of Junior to become worse, if he is in fact harming the dog. I am with you on the possibility of abuse -- Junior's behavior is a big warning sign -- but unfortunately there was no clear evidence given in the original letter. You quite rightly point out that if something feels wrong, then it most likely is. If the father feels this way, he needs to investigate further.";
	pawsText[38] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	The weather is turning warm again, and once more I have to deal with fleas crawling all over my two cats. Is there any way I can get rid of them? -- Clara in Valdosta, Ga.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CLARA</strong>:<br> \
	Dealing with fleas, especially in warm, humid areas like the Southeast, is very difficult. It's nearly impossible to completely eradicate them, but you can lessen their impact in a couple of ways. Tackle the problem before it starts. As the weather warms up, fleas become more active, and their eggs begin to hatch as well. Late winter and early spring are prime time for starting the flea battle. This means a thorough spring cleaning of your home, and treatment of your cats. Send the cats to your vet or a grooming/boarding service for an overnight stay while you clean. While they're there, have them bathed and groomed and treated for fleas. Even if they showed no signs of infestation during the winter, eggs could still be embedded deep in their coats. Next, while they're gone, clean the entire house -- top to bottom. This means moving the furniture and cleaning underneath it, as well as taking down all linens and curtains and washing them. Treat the carpets and upholstery with a nontoxic flea stopper (available at pet stores). Vacuum thoroughly and discard the vacuum cleaner bag once you're done. Throughout the remainder of the warm months -- well into October -- you will need to maintain a regular flea-prevention schedule. Your cats must be treated for fleas regularly with a treatment recommended by your veterinarian; don't let this lapse. If the cats spend time outside, you must brush them each time they come in to dislodge anything that attached to their coats. Vacuum the carpets and furniture at least once a week, and wash all linens regularly so fleas don't settle in and lay their eggs."; 
	pawsText[39] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I am appalled, angered and saddened by the response from Dori to the parent who wrote you after her children's goldfish died because they didn't take care of it. She said the children were set up to fail. Wow. I hope this person does not have children. If she believes that a child is set up for failure, the child will believe he or she is a failure and will not try to improve and grow mentally. I cannot see how a parent could feel right by instilling this in a child's mind! So, a goldfish was not cared for, and died. While this is sad and maybe could have been avoided, it is not completely the child's fault. For one thing, goldfish are very susceptible to disease and overeating, which can cause death. Parents should always supervise the care of a pet, for sure, but that does not mean taking complete care of it. Children need to learn structure and respect for living things. A goldfish is a very good start. They mainly need clean water, nutritional food and possibly occasional medicine. Children have to learn about their pet, and a goldfish can be a great start with the proper supervision from parents and a book to read (or parents can read to them) about the needs of that specific pet. As for the parent's question about whether to get another pet, I think she could get the child a hamster or Guinea pig. This pet would be much more interactive and enjoyable. I know that if the parents supervise and stick to the structure, the child will take care of the pet. -- Lora S., via e-mail </p> \
	<strong>DEAR LORA</strong>:<br> \
	Great answer. Thank you for giving readers something to think about.";
	pawsText[40] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We bought a black-and-white Pomeranian/Chihuahua cross when she was 9 months old. &quot;Sheila&quot; has long legs and is very pretty -- she actually looks like a Papillon. She is now 16 months old and is shedding. Is this common with this mixed breed? -- Marilyn from Canada</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MARILYN</strong>:<br> \
	Sheila sounds very pretty indeed, though I'm sure the shedding is distressing. While shedding is not that common in purebred Chihuahuas, it is noted in purebred Pomeranians. According to <a href="+pomeranianLink+" target="+pomeranianLinkTarget+">petpom.com</a>, Pomeranian puppies shed their baby coats between three and seven months of age, allowing their adult coats to come in. Adult (or in your case, young adult) Pomeranians are known to shed their undercoat. This sometimes depends on seasonal changes, but some Pomeranians, particularly indoor dogs, shed lightly all year. Unspayed females may shed at different times, as well. If Sheila is shedding fur so heavily that patches of fur are missing or her coat is so thin you can see her skin through it, take her to a veterinarian and have her checked out. Heavy shedding often indicates a medical problem. If the shedding is not severe, comb Sheila's coat daily to prevent matting. Do keep an eye on her to see if she is showing any signs of stress or illness, and check her fur and skin closely from time to time to check for any excessive shedding or signs of irritated skin. If she has not yet been spayed, go ahead and schedule this procedure with her veterinarian. As a mixed breed, Sheila should not have puppies and so shouldn't have to go through issues like heat cycles, which also can cause excess shedding.";
	pawsText[41] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I own two townhouses, which I rent out to tenants. In the lease I specify that no pets are allowed; however, I will sometimes let a tenant keep a small animal such as a cat or toy dog, as I understand it can be hard to find affordable housing that accepts pets. I will be stopping that practice after my current tenants leave. Why? Because almost every time I have given permission for a pet to be kept, the tenant has abused my kindness by either bringing in additional pets, or by not cleaning up after their pet and causing hundreds or thousands of dollars in damages. I hate to turn pet owners away, but from now on I will have to -- I can't keep spending money to remodel these damaged and stinky townhouses. Please tell your readers that if they are renting, they need to be responsible tenants and follow the rules set out in the lease! -- Grumpy Landlord in Boulder, Colo.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR GRUMPY</strong>:<br> \
	Well, you told 'em, and I agree. I know it can be difficult to find a rental home or apartment that accepts pets, but it is important to be upfront and honest with landlords or property managers. Sometimes a compromise can be worked out, but pet owners must keep their end of the bargain. Some issues can't be avoided, such as pet fur collecting in the corners or a dog that barks occasionally. But keeping the unit clean and odor-free, making sure pets are well-behaved and healthy, not keeping more pets than are allowed -- these are essential elements to maintaining a good relationship with the landlord, and in the long run, increasing the number of landlords willing to rent to pet owners. Don't mess it up for other pet owners by failing to follow rental rules.";
	pawsText[42] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have two small children, and we recently added a new member to our family -- a Cocker Spaniel puppy. &quot;Missy&quot; is adorable, and my kids absolutely love her; however, she is more than I bargained for. I am having a very hard time training her and was thinking about going to a dog trainer who can work on everything from house training to basic commands and even aggression. I have been hearing about a dog trainer based nearby. How do I know if he'll be a good trainer for my dog? -- Jessica P., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JESSICA</strong>:<br> \
	Word-of-mouth recommendations about a dog trainer can be very telling, and if the person telling you about him thinks he is good and can help you, there's a good chance he can. Of course, there are other questions you should ask directly of the trainer when you contact him. Does he belong to a professional organization such as the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (found at www.apdt.com)? Does he specialize in certain breeds? How much experience does he have training Cocker Spaniels? What is the training format -- one on one with the trainer, or a group setting with pet owners? Can other family members participate in the class? Are there any health restrictions or specific vaccinations required of Missy before she can join? Don't worry about asking too many questions! Good trainers care about your dog and will do their best to answer them. Working with a professional trainer will be incredibly beneficial for both Missy and you. It's not only Missy who's learning how to respond to commands, you also will learn how to respond to Missy's behavior, how to stop bad habits and how to continue training her long after the sessions end. That's right -- professional training is not just for your dog, it's also training for you. That's why it's one of the best investments you can make for both Missy and your family.";
	pawsText[43] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Our family adopted a puppy just a few weeks ago. &quot;Shep&quot; is adorable and playful, but when we're playing, he will nip at ours or kids' fingers. Is this something he will grow out of? -- Sharon in Tallahassee, Fla.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SHARON</strong>:<br> \
	When playing in the litter, puppies will often nip at each other, and this behavior often comes along with a puppy when he leaves the litter. However, it's not acceptable for Shep to continue doing this. If it's encouraged, he will playfully nip at the fingers of most anyone who pets him or plays with him, and in a grown dog it's no longer considered funny or cute. To train Shep out of this behavior, signal to him that his biting is unacceptable. How do you do this? Easy -- when he starts nipping at your fingers, say &quot;No&quot; or &quot;Ouch&quot; loudly, turn away and stop paying attention to him for about a minute. He'll go a bit crazy to get your attention back, but after several repeats, Shep will make the connection -- if he bites or nips, your reaction will be negative. The entire family needs to be in on this training. You can't be the only one turning away from Shep, as he'll just bounce on over to the next family member and start up again. So explain it to the children and practice a few times. Now, how can your family play with Shep in a positive way that reduces biting or nipping? Toys, balls and braided tug chews are great ways to keep him engaged and work off his extra energy.";
	pawsText[44] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I am planning to adopt a cat, and I have decided that the local shelter is the best place to do so -- not classified ads or a cat breeder. Do you have any advice on things to look for? -- Sally in Branson, Mo.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SALLY</strong>:<br> \
	First, congratulations on your decision. I agree that the local shelter is often the best place to look for a new cat. Shelters always have many pets looking for a home, but besides that, many of them offer pet ownership classes and discounts or rebates for medical procedures such as spaying/neutering. You likely will be asked a few questions by the shelter personnel before you can even go and look at a pet. They need to make sure you are able to care for a cat throughout its life. Shelters do not allow college students or vacationers to adopt. They also will explain any fees or additional requirements for adoption. When it's time to find your new cat, look over each prospect closely and ask plenty of questions. How old is the cat? Is it already sterilized? What is its general temperament (sometimes hard to tell in a stressed environment)? Does it have any known health issues? Shelter personnel will give you as much information as they can about each cat. Give prospects a visual once-over from nose to tail. Healthy cats have a clean nose with no wheezing, white teeth and pink gums, clear and lively eyes, and clean ears. Lift the tail and check for signs of diarrhea or distress such as swelling. The fur should be fluffy and clean with no bare patches, and not ratty- or spiky-looking. Watch how it moves, runs and plays. Once you've adopted a new companion, schedule a veterinary appointment as soon as possible for a physical checkup to make sure your cat is as healthy as possible.";
	pawsText[45] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read all the time about how the best cat diets are fresh food this, raw food that. I'm all for a healthy pet, but I don't have time to cook &quot;Jamie&quot; a fresh dinner every night. Is there just a good all-around pet food she can eat instead? -- Margie in Atlanta</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MARGIE</strong>:<br> \
	Don't feel guilty about time impacting what you can feed to your cat. The fact that you're thinking and reading about it means you do care, and you're trying to give her the best food you can. Kibble or canned food mixed with fresh on various days throughout the week will provide a varied and healthy diet. Choose the best dry/canned food possible, based on Jamie's age and health. Often your cat's veterinarian will recommend a brand and type. Tell the vet about any fresh foods you plan to feed Jamie, in case there are any foods he or she does not want her to eat. Jamie's diet can be planned a week in advance, based around your schedule, and some fresh foods can be prepared and stored, covered in the refrigerator, for up to three days. For example, if you work later on one night than another, that is perhaps a good day to feed her dry kibble, which you or a friend can put in her bowl at feeding time (with a full bowl of water nearby, of course). Canned or fresh food should also be served at the regular feeding time. Once Jamie is finished, wash and dry her bowl thoroughly before going to bed for the night to prevent growth of bacteria.";
	pawsText[46] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog &quot;Kip&quot; is really friendly and wouldn't harm a fly. When I take him out for walks he likes to go right up to people and sometimes jumps up on them for a friendly pat. But last week, this woman yelled at me, telling me to watch out or she would call animal control! What was her problem? -- Keri in Worcester, Mass.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR KERI</strong>:<br> \
	Honestly, the problem wasn't hers -- it's yours. I'm sure Kip is a wonderful dog and just as friendly as you say. The trouble is, people on the street don't know that. They just see a dog running up and jumping on them, and they're not sure of Kip's intent. A great many people are terrified of dogs, Keri. It's no laughing matter, either -- most of those who are fearful of dogs had some traumatic event in their past. But even if they don't fear them, just the sight of a strange dog charging at them can incite a fearful reaction. It's also an invasion of people's privacy -- their personal space -- and just bad etiquette all around to allow your dog to jump on them. As Kip's owner, it's your responsibility to control his behavior. The older he gets and the more he's allowed to run up and jump on people, the harder it is to train him out of it. And you need to train him out of this behavior, pronto. I recommend that you sign up for behavior training classes as soon as possible. Attend these sessions with Kip, listen closely to the instructor and follow his or her advice. Remember that pets are a part of our community, and like every other member of a community they must follow some rules in order for everyone to get along. It's up to you to show Kip how to behave on his daily walks.";
	pawsText[47] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	You recently wrote a long explanation of how to get rid of fleas on pets and in the house. I have two very large (more than 100 pounds) dogs, very furry, Great Pyrenees. I also have seven cats. I have found with the recent developments in treatments, none of the measures you listed are necessary. I have one cat that is hypersensitive to flea saliva. I keep an eye on him, and when I notice the little telltale bumps just at the base of his tail, I know we have been infested. I immediately treat all of the animals with either Frontline or Advantage. End of story. No sprays, no bombs, no bathing fighting cats. The topical stuff applied between their shoulderblades kills the fleas on them. The remaining fleas in the house and yard jump on the animals to feed, and then are killed. I never have to treat anything but my animals. Even my car interior is fine. The stuff lasts 30 days. I simply treat again as many times as necessary until the frost comes and flea season is over. As long as my pets are treated regularly, I don't have to worry about any hatching eggs: They just hatch, feed and die. So simple and easy. I hope you will consider suggesting this course of treatment. All of the steps you listed easily could discourage someone from becoming a pet owner, and it does not have to be so difficult and time-consuming. -- Debbie S., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DEBBIE</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks! Actually, I have recommended topical treatments in the past and used them on my own pets with similar success. However, many of my readers are leery of using a topical treatment, and others tell me it didn't work at all, particularly with outdoor pets. For them, alternative prevention and treatment methods must be explored.";
	pawsText[48] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Do you know if rat poisons are harmful to cats that eat a rat or mouse that has died from it? I don't see any warning on the package. I'm nervous about using it. Thanks. -- Dee in Palmyra, N.Y. </p> \
	<strong>DEAR DEBBIE</strong>:<br> \
	In my opinion, yes, a cat that eats a rodent that had ingested poison could very well be affected by that poison as well. Some rat poisons work by slowly building up in the rodent's system through repeated feedings, so that by the time the rodent dies, it has a fairly concentrated buildup of poison in its system. One particular ingredient to watch for is warfarin. This anticoagulant is present in many store-bought rat poisons. It's effective because it doesn't have a particular odor or taste, so pests can't detect it. But it's certainly dangerous to predators that might eat the pest afterward, particularly those of a lower weight, like cats. If you're going to use a rat poison to rid an area of these pests, you must keep pets out of that area. Alternatives to poison include box and snap traps, and preventative measures. Secure the traps to the ground so rodents can't drag them away. To reduce the risk of rat infestation, it must made difficult or undesirable for the rodents to live in that area. Around houses, prune back shrubs and trees so they do not touch the building. Stack lumber, boxes and other outdoor storage at least 2 feet away from the house, and keep compost piles well away. Remove potential food sources as well: Seal up garbage cans and pet food containers, and remove leftover pet food from dishes and bird feeders. Even these measures might not always be effective. If you're reluctant to use poisons but an infestation is severe or not abating despite your efforts, contact a professional pest-control service for help.";
	pawsText[49] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My sister and I both have chihuahuas about 1 1/2 years old. We have trained them differently. My male, &quot;Timmy,&quot; is on a food schedule, so I could watch and train him to go outside. I also have trained him to use the doggie door. He is about 95 percent housebroken, but relies on me or my husband to take him outside most of the time. My sister's female chihuahua, &quot;Lucy,&quot; eats whenever she wants and is trained on pads in the house. Because of her size, my sister is scared of something carrying her off, which is a legitimate concern for both of us. My question is: My sister is moving in with me for a month or so, and I'm not sure how to go about keeping my chihuahua from using the pads in the house. Do you have any suggestions? -- Corrine R., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CORRINE</strong>:<br> \
	This will take a bit of planning and some compromise to pull off, so talk to your sister before she arrives so you both can agree on an arrangement. First, would your sister be averse to putting Lucy on the same feeding and elimination schedule as Timmy? Sometimes this works well in helping both dogs adjust to each other, and Lucy should fall into the routine within a few days. If your sister doesn't want to do this, then Lucy's go-pads and her food need to be placed in a room that Timmy can't access, and even then you'll have to work hard to keep him on his housetraining schedule. Your sister also will have to make sure Lucy only uses the pads and doesn't soil the rest of the house. Since she's already invited, don't insist that your sister pick one or the other. She may go with the second option at first, but then agree to transition to Timmy's schedule, particularly if she sees that the dogs are supervised outside.";
	pawsText[50] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My girlfriend &quot;Lisa&quot; has a 9-year-old cat that hasn't been to a vet since it was spayed about eight and half years ago. &quot;Socks&quot; vomits almost daily, sometimes two to three times a day. We've tried different types, brands and amounts of foods. The water is city tap. The dishes are cleaned regularly. When I had my dog, I took her in once a year for her yearly checkup and any needed shots (rabies, etc.). Lisa says, &quot;It's my cat. It doesn't go outside.&quot; I'm tired of arguing with her. But I feel sorry for the cat. Money and/or time to take it is not an issue here. What are your vet visit recommendations for a cat in general and for one that vomits? -- John in Dover, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JOHN</strong>:<br> \
	Just like your dog, Lisa's cat should be taken to the veterinarian once a year for a checkup. It's not just about getting vaccinations updated; the vet also checks for hidden health problems. Cats are extremely good at hiding illness. Senior cats can develop illnesses like heart disease, diabetes and so on that have nothing to do with going outside. And Socks is definitely entering &quot;senior&quot; status at 9 years of age. So the frequent vomiting could be more than just a reaction to the type of food being given. Whether anything is wrong or not, Socks needs to get to a vet and be looked at. I know this could cause discord in your relationship, but I recommend that you take Socks in for that checkup. Don't argue with Lisa, don't use this as a point of contention, just put Socks into a travel crate and go as soon as possible.";
	pawsText[51] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I'm moving from my hometown to Lansing, Mich., next month, and I plan to drive the whole way. My mom is coming along too, to help out. The big worry though, is my dog &quot;Sparks,&quot; a toy terrier. He gets very agitated in the car. I also don't know if he'll be allowed to stay in hotels with us along the way. I have a few weeks before starting my new job, and I want to &quot;meander&quot; a bit and see the country, but will that be possible with Sparks along? -- Jeannie from Tampa, Fla.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JEANNIE</strong>:<br> \
	With a bit of planning, you should be able to have a fun road trip without stressing Sparks (or yourself) too much. The first person to call is Sparks' veterinarian. You'll need a copy of his medical and shot record for his new vet in Michigan. Talk to the vet about your planned trip and about Sparks' anxiety in the car. Medication is available to help calm your dog while traveling. Alternatively, you could try taking him on a couple of car trips before your big move. For example, drive about 30-60 minutes to a nice park, hop out and take Sparks for a walk around, then drive back home. Sometimes a pet's only car experience is a short ride to the vet, so doing something different may help ease that anxiety. Finding a pet-friendly hotel during the trip may not be as difficult as you think. Many national hotel chains have pet policies that allow smaller pets, and some have even more liberal rules. Motel 6, for example, has a one-pet-per-room policy and charges no additional fees. Plot out your driving route along with sights you want to see, and where you will likely stop for the night, then call ahead to hotels in that area (or look them up online) to ask about their pet policy.";
	pawsText[52] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I recently adopted a stray cat. &quot;Missy&quot; is a year and a half old and weighed only five pounds when we got her. She was so thin we could feel all her little bones. She's received her shots, and once she has gained weight she will be spayed. My question is, Missy is a little snippy. She'll bite or scratch. Otherwise, she's a nice cat. How can I get her to stop the biting and scratching? -- Sally S., York, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SALLY</strong>:<br> \
	Missy's biting and scratching -- usually when you reach out to pet her, I'm sure -- is a legacy of her past. It's clear that she had a tough time and was very stressed out before you found her. Right now, Missy is adjusting to a new life and a new role as a member of your family. That's a brand-new kind of stress. If Missy could talk, she might ask herself, who are these new &quot;parents&quot;? How will they treat me? When a hand reaches for me, what is going to happen? For the next few months, avoid sudden moves around Missy as much as possible. When you reach out to pet her, play &quot;meet me halfway&quot;: Hold your hand out several inches away from Missy and call to her. Most cats will approach, sniff your hand and then rub their whiskers against it. From there, usually you can scratch Missy's ears. To help ease her transition to her new life, talk to Missy's veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication. Herbal remedies are also available that might help. But mostly, continue to give her lots of love and time -- two of nature's best medicines.";
	pawsText[53] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Just a comment on your column about the woman who has cats with fleas. There's a prevention I heard of years ago that might be helpful. Someone told me that eucalyptus will repel fleas. I bought a large spray of it and put it in a vase on the floor, near the couch where my dogs lounge. My dogs (five of them through the years) never had a problem with fleas, despite having long, thick coats. They were outdoors a lot and socialized with other dogs, so there was ample opportunity for them to become infested. Another person told me she grew eucalyptus in the garden, which was near where her dog played in the yard, and she had no problem with fleas, either. Using eucalyptus might give pet owners an advantage over the flea problem and eliminate some of the care, concern and vet visits. -- K.H.S., Fairport, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR K.H.S.</strong>:<br> \
	You know, I hadn't brought up using plants as a flea repellent, but it is well worth a try. This plant can be purchased at garden centers or home-improvement stores, fully grown or as seeds. As with any new plant, don't let your pets eat it -- eucalyptus may be toxic to dogs and cats, so place it out of reach or fence-off garden areas that have it. Other flea-fighting plants include lavender and mint, so consider adding these to your kitchen garden or placing around the house.";
	pawsText[54] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Recently, I started receiving e-mails from what looks like a legitimate source (a real e-mail address, as far as I can tell, with a person's name on it, though not anyone I know personally). The e-mail says this person has a puppy for sale cheap, that it has its shots and its &quot;AKC papers.&quot; If I were interested in getting another dog, I might be tempted, but I already have two dogs. How did this person get my e-mail address? Is it legit? -- Sue R., Hartford, Conn.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SUE</strong>:<br> \
	Your gut instinct is telling you to be suspicious, and well you should. Although this type of e-mail seems legitimate, it is not. What you describe is a &quot;phishing&quot; scam, in which the scammer tries to get you to reply to an attention-getting e-mail, in the hopes of gathering as much personal information about you as possible, or simply getting you to put lots of money up front. Trust me, there is no puppy on the other end of that e-mail, and the &quot;real&quot; name is not attached to a real person. In fact, many fraud watch groups dubbed this particular type of e-mail &quot;puppy scams.&quot; The e-mails were first noticed in spring 2008, and the American Kennel Club and Council of Better Business Bureaus quickly put out a warning about them. The best thing to do when you receive unsolicited e-mails from an unknown person is to delete them, unopened. Don't respond to them at all. If you have been taken in by one of these false e-mails and lost money or personal information, report the incident to the local authorities. E-fraud is taken very seriously, and while you may not recover any money, you can help others from being taken advantage of.";
	pawsText[55] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Can you  alert your readers to the importance of paying extra attention to your  pets during the summer months? It's another blistering hot summer here  in the South, and almost every afternoon I see neighborhood pets  struggle to deal with hot sidewalks, or panting with thirst. Many  thanks. -- Charlene in Smyrna, Ga.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR CHARLENE:</strong><br />Definitely. As you note, it's extremely important for owners to keep a  close eye on their pets, even if they're indoors all the time. Here's a  list to follow:</p> \
	<p>1. Fresh, cool water should always be available, indoors and out.</p> \
	<p>2. Dogs (and some cats) welcome an occasional ice cube, but watch  them while they eat it. Dogs usually like crunching the cubes, and  there's a choking risk.</p> \
	<p>3. Outdoor pets need a shady spot with good airflow in which to rest.</p> \
	<p>4. Check on outdoor pets frequently (every 15 to 30 minutes).</p> \
	<p>5. Don't chain a dog outside while you go to work. Besides it being  lonely, the dog is at risk from the heat, from predators or other dogs,  and from humans. Plus, prolonged chaining is a form of abuse. Find a  doggie daycare or a pet sitter to monitor and care for your dog.</p> \
	<p>6. Indoor pets tend to be smaller and can be sensitive to wide swings  in temperature, so keep the house temperature in a comfortable range  (68 F. to 78 F.).</p> \
	<p>7. Cats should have both sunny and shady places to stretch out indoors.</p> \
	<p>8. If traveling with your pet, don't leave small pets in the car,  even with the windows cracked. They can easily succumb to the heat.</p> \
	<p>9. Monitor your pet for signs of injury or heat stress: excessive  panting, lethargy, a matted coat or behavioral changes. If you suspect  heat injury, rush your pet straight to the veterinarian.";
	pawsText[56] = "<p><strong>PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Here we are, in the peak of the summer travel season. How many of you will be traveling with your pets? Did you know that 82 percent of dogs in the United States travel in the car regularly and go on vacation with their families? That's a great statistic from the APPMA, and it shows that pets are, more than ever before, considered part of the family.  A more sobering statistic, however, is that of all those dogs, 98 percent of them travel in the car unrestrained. This according to Bark Buckle UP, a nonprofit organization whose aim is to educate pet owners in the U.S. and Canada about traveling safely with their pets. Bark Buckle UP is anxious to get the word out about making sure your pet is safely restrained while in the car. In a 35-mph collision, a 60-pound pet can become a 2,700-pound projectile -- possibly injuring the pet and other occupants. Securing a pet in the car can be a lifesaver in many ways. Pet owners can learn more about how to safely restrain a dog or other pet while traveling by visiting www.barkbuckleup.com. There's also a free pet safety kit being offered on the Web site -- owners will need to register on the site (at no charge) to receive the kit, which provides a customized pet ID card and a &quot;first responder&quot; decal that can be affixed to the passenger window to indicate a pet is inside. The site also offers a number of travel safety items, including seat belt/leash harnesses, carriers for small pets, even life vests for boating pets. Check it out today, and learn more about keeping your pet safe every time you travel.";
	pawsText[57] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My female cat &quot;Sandy&quot; will drink a quart of water very quickly. Then for the next couple of days, her litter box looks like sandbox after rain storm. It's a big mess, and looks like a mud field. What's wrong with her? -- Fred in Rochester, N.Y.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR FRED</strong>:<br> \
	I can't tell you what's wrong from here, but I can tell you to take Sandy to the veterinarian as soon as possible and describe to him or her exactly what you told me. If Sandy has any other unusual behaviors or symptoms, such as seeming lethargic, irritated, hiding out for long periods and so on, tell the vet this as well. Frequent urination is a sign that a serious illness may be developing. It's one of the symptoms of feline diabetes, for example -- although only the vet can make this diagnosis. Often, the illness can be managed, but only if your cat gets prompt medical attention. If caught early, Sandy might only need minimal changes in how she's cared for -- a change in diet, some medication and more frequent checkups. If you're worried about the cost of care, please mention this to the vet when you go in. Something can be worked out so that Sandy can get the help she needs. Many states and cities offer assistance to senior citizens with pets, so that pets can get annual checkups, needed shots and tags at little or no cost. Besides the vet's office, the best places to find information about discounted pet care include senior community centers and the local Humane Society.";
	pawsText[58] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	 Like everyone else, I'm trying to save money these days, and so I want to cut back on the number of trips my Cocker Spaniel &quot;Jake&quot; takes to the groomer. I take him once a week now. Do you have any grooming tips? -- Sally in Pittsburgh</p> \
	 <p><strong>DEAR SALLY</strong>:<br> \
	 Taking on some grooming tasks yourself can save quite a bit of money and can even make you more aware of Jake's health. Regular grooming will make you familiar with his coat and skin, and you'll notice changes that a groomer might miss.<br> \
	 Here are some general grooming instructions to follow:<br> \
	 &bull; Brush your dog's coat regularly: Long-haired breeds should be brushed out daily to prevent matting; medium- and short-haired dogs can be brushed weekly.<br> \
	 &bull; Check your dog's ears each time he's brushed, particularly if he has long, floppy ears. Look for debris in the outer ear and note if the ears have any odor, signaling possible yeast or bacterial infection (consult the vet if you notice an odor). Gently sweep dirt or other debris away from the ear canal using a clean cloth soaked in mineral oil.<br> \
	 &bull; Discharge at the corners of a dog's eyes can be gently wiped away using a cotton ball soaked in cool water.<br> \
	 &bull; Brush your dog's teeth regularly -- daily, if possible. Use only toothbrushing gear designed for dogs: A special finger brush and flavored toothpaste are available at the vet's or the pet store.<br> \
	 &bull; A weekly bath is fine for most dogs. Don't use human shampoos; use shampoo specifically formulated for dogs.<br> \
	 &bull; Nails should be trimmed once a month -- a trying task for dogs and owners, sometimes. If you want to try it yourself, have the groomer show you how to safely trim Jake's nails.</p> \
	 Just these basic grooming steps will keep Jake looking good between visits to the professional groomer. More tips are available from the American Kennel Club at <a href="+groomingLink+" target="+groomingLinkTarget+">www.akc.org/public_education/grooming.cfm</a>.";
	pawsText[59] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	How do I groom a cat? Is that even possible? -- Ruth H., via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR RUTH</strong>:<br> \
	Sure, it's both possible and advisable, no matter how much your cat tries to convince you it isn't. While cats tend to be fairly clean and neat, they do need to be checked on periodically for their own health.<br> \
	Here are some basic cat grooming tips:<br> \
	&bull; Long-haired cats must be brushed daily to prevent tangles and mats. Don't tug at tangled hair; instead, work out the hair using a grooming comb. Medium- and short-haired cats can be brushed every two weeks or longer if their coats are clean.<br> \
	&bull; If a cat is prone to &quot;eye goo&quot; -- excess tears spilling over the lower eyelid, creating a gluey brown substance just below the eyes -- gently dab the area with a soft cloth soaked in lukewarm water, repeating until the goo loosens up.<br> \
	&bull; Check the cat's ears each time it is brushed. Look for debris in the outer ear and note if any unpleasant odor comes from the ear, signaling yeast or bacterial infection. See the vet if you suspect an infection. Otherwise, gently wipe away debris, from the outer ear only, with a cotton swab dipped in a special ear-cleaning solution (available from the vet or at pet stores).<br> \
	&bull; Brush your cat's teeth daily if possible, using a brush and flavored paste designed for cats. It may take a few weeks for your cat to get used to toothbrushing, so be patient and encouraging.<br> \
	&bull; Nails must be trimmed regularly as well -- once a month, usually. Your vet or groomer can show you how to safely trim the cat's nails. Again, this takes a bit of patience, and you should use clippers designed for cats.<br> \
	&bull; Bathing doesn't have to happen too often for cats; once a month is more than enough. Use only shampoo formulated for cats. If a cat's coat seems very greasy, overly matted or dull, consult your veterinarian to rule out illness or allergies.";
	pawsText[60] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read that a dog's nose is wet when it's healthy, and dry when it's sick. Is it the same for cats? -- David in Columbus, Ga.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR DAVID</strong>:<br> \
	It's a good guideline to follow for both dogs and cats, although there's more to a nose than just wet or dry. A healthy dog or cat's nose will be slightly moist -- although sometimes a cat's nose will seem a little bit dry. Neither animal should react negatively to a light touch or rub on the nose. If a dog or cat's nose is very wet, it may not be completely healthy. Conversely, if the nose is extremely dry, that's not a great sign either. If a pet doesn't want you to touch its nose (when it normally doesn't have a problem with you doing it), that might not be a good sign. I say &quot;maybe&quot; and &quot;might&quot; a lot, because a pet's nose isn't the single best measure of that pet's health. Each pet is an individual with a different level of nose wetness or dryness. If, for example, you have a cat whose nose always feels a bit dry, but is otherwise healthy, then the cat is probably healthy. So, you have to be aware of more than just a pet's nose when evaluating its health. Certainly, you can give it a daily check -- you'll learn quickly what's &quot;normal&quot; for your pet. But also be familiar with your pet's usual behaviors, when it eats and sleeps, and how it interacts with other family members. Changes in behavior often indicate illness. Be familiar with how his or her coat looks -- if it becomes shaggy or chronically matted, for example, that's abnormal. And of course, always check with the veterinarian if you're not sure.";
	pawsText[61] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I recently lost one of my guinea pigs, &quot;Rosie.&quot; Ever since then, my other guinea pig, &quot;Tulip,&quot; has seemed to take it very hard. She stays in her igloo and doesn't get up a lot. I'd like to get a new guinea pig so she won't be lonely. Is this a good idea? If I get a young guinea pig, would Tulip act motherly toward it or attack it? -- Elise, via e-mail </p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR ELISE</strong>:<br> \
	First, I'm so sorry to hear about Rosie. Guinea pigs tend to do best living in pairs, so I agree with you that Tulip is probably experiencing some depression right now at the loss of her companion. Introducing a new guinea pig may be all right in Tulip's case. Female cavies accept new companions more readily than males, which generally have to be introduced when they're both young. I can't say whether introducing a very young female cavy companion will work better than introducing an adult cavy to Tulip -- but adult cavies tend to be very individualistic. Go with your instincts, and observe both guinea pigs closely as they interact. Happy cavies generally make clucking or &quot;wheek&quot; sounds, or purr. Teeth clacking, posturing or yawning can indicate aggressiveness. In any case, make sure Tulip continues to get the nutrients she needs while she adjusts to the loss of Rosie. She must eat daily, so if she hasn't eaten in 24 hours, contact her veterinarian for guidance -- she may need to be brought in so the vet can introduce nutrients quickly.";
	pawsText[62] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Twice this year already, I've had dogs left on the doorstep of my farmhouse, including a new litter of puppies. People must assume that my few acres are perfect to let these dogs roam free, when in fact this is a working farm with little extra time for taking care of other people's pets. Sadly, I've had to take most of these dogs to the local shelter. Can you remind readers that pets are not simply problems that can be dumped when the going gets tough? -- Shirley in Putney, Vt.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR SHIRLEY</strong>:<br> \
	Pet abandonment, especially of dogs, has become much more common in these difficult economic times. But that doesn't excuse the act. Abandoned pets are exposed to all sorts of dangers from both nature and man. Dogs are not wolves -- they do not thrive in the wild. Dogs have developed a symbiotic relationship with humans, meaning they rely on us for food and care. They're also devoted pack animals, so when they are left by the side of the road -- essentially kicked out of their pack -- the psychological damage is devastating. An abandoned dog, even if lucky enough to be adopted by someone else, is never the same dog that was left behind. If you're going through tough times economically and caring for your pet is straining your finances, don't go it alone. Tell someone you're having trouble -- a family member, your pet's veterinarian, a friend. Contact the local Humane Society (or your shelter) and ask for advice. There are low-cost pet care resources available in most communities. If the dog's behavior is a problem, there are also resources available. Pick up &quot;Don't Dump the Dog: Outrageous Stories and Simple Solutions to Your Worst Dog Behavior Problems&quot; by Randy Grim (Sky Horse Publishing), who founded a rescue center for stray dogs. Don't just give up on your companion.";
	pawsText[63] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Recently, I read about a home brew to dry dogs' ears after they get them wet from swimming. An old veterinarian of ours, who passed on several years ago, used to sell it to us. It was very effective, not only for their ears, but also for hot spots. (We solved the hot spot issue by shaving them down to a quarter-inch &quot;do&quot; in the summer, which they love!) Anyway, I believe the formula contained a base of alcohol, and had powdered alum and boric acid in it. Do you have a recipe that I can use on my goldens' ears? -- Frank D., Linden, Mich.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR FRANK</strong>:<br> \
	Those ingredients sound a little rough for use in your dogs' ears. Alcohol is an effective drying agent, but can cause your dogs a lot of discomfort and even pain if it touches an existing scratch or inflammation. It's certainly important to dry a dog's ears after swimming, and to clean them regularly (at least once a month) to reduce the possibility of yeast or bacterial infections in the ear canal. Numerous recipes for homemade cleaning solutions exist, and many contain rubbing alcohol and boric acid. But try starting with a milder solution of white vinegar and distilled water (50/50). If you're certain the dogs' ears are free of inflammation, you can replace the water with rubbing alcohol, but discontinue use if the dog becomes agitated during cleaning and consult your veterinarian.  For those who haven't cleaned their dog's ears before, put a generous amount of the solution into one ear and massage the base of the ear for a few seconds. Let the dog shake his head to drain the liquid, then lift his ear and gently wipe the visible part of the ear canal and ear flap with a cotton ball or lint-free cloth. Do not use cotton swabs. If your dog shows signs of an ear infection (frequent head shaking, scratching the ears or a pungent odor from the ear), head to the vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.";
	pawsText[64] = "This fall's pet books are robust and entertaining, and even well-known authors from the other end of the bookshelf are chiming in. A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned a book, &quot;Don't Dump the Dog&quot; by Randy Grim, that offered advice on dealing with common but annoying behaviors from dogs. Frustrated owners may also want to check out &quot;High-Energy Dogs: A Practical Guide to Living With Energetic and Driven Canines,&quot; by Tracy Libby (TFH Publications). Dogs like Australian shepherds, Jack Russell terriers and Basenjis can be a real handful, especially for the inexperienced owner, and it's all too easy to become frustrated with a spirited puppy. This colorful guide discusses characteristics of several high-energy, intelligent breeds and walks owners through methods of understanding and training such dogs. &quot;Homer's Odyssey,&quot; by Gwen Cooper (Delacorte Press), is an account of life with the &quot;blind wonder cat,&quot; as Cooper describes the kitten she adopted at a Miami veterinarian's office. Expectations aren't high for Homer, who lost his eyes at just three weeks of age, but the kitten grows into an independent daredevil. It's a charming story, and a nice weekend read. Finally, novelist Dean Koontz has taken his first step into nonfiction and pet writing with his memoir, &quot;A Big Little Life&quot; (Hyperion). Koontz recounts the joys of life with Trixie, a retired service dog with Canine Companions for Independence and the first dog he had ever owned. &quot;A Big Little Life&quot; is a big little diversion from his intense works of fiction, and a welcome new voice to pet memoirs. Pick up his and all this month's releases at your local bookstore or online.";
	pawsText[65] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Help! Three months ago I adopted a wonderful red Australian Shepherd from the shelter. &quot;Shep&quot; is very intelligent and easy to train, but has a very annoying habit: He constantly wants to lick me. My face, hands, neck -- any bare skin area is a target. I thought he was just showing gratitude for being adopted, but it hasn't diminished. I have a full-time job, so I'm gone about nine hours a day, and as soon as I walk in the door he's at it. I let him lick me as soon as I walk in the door, but then he won't stop. What can I do to discourage this? -- Nancy H., Bloomfield, N.Y.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR NANCY</strong>:<br> \
	First, let me say congratulations on your new pet. Shep sounds like a really great dog. He seems well-behaved and isn't tearing up the house while you're gone. The licking, however, is an unacceptable behavior. And because he's an energetic dog, finding the root cause of his compulsive behavior is very important. Read up on the traits of Australian Shepherds and talk to other Aussie owners, all of whom have probably experienced one Aussie behavior or another. Shep is a high-energy herd dog, bred to run all day without tiring. So being inside the house for several hours is probably a bit taxing for him. He's also an adoptee, a pet that lost one family and gained another, and I'll bet there's more than a bit of separation anxiety in that compulsive licking. If possible, have a friend or a professional pet sitter come and walk or play with Shep in the middle of the day while you're out to work off some of that energy. When you walk in the door, don't let him lick you at all. Train him in &quot;sit-stay&quot; and use this command every time you come in. Once you are home, take him out for a walk, or ideally, to an open area where he can run to work off that pent-up energy. Pick up training manuals that deal specifically with Aussies and that address anxiety issues. If basic behavioral methods don't work for Shep, consider consulting a professional trainer to help diagnose and address his behavior.";
	pawsText[66] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read an article by a local writer about a dog show that was held here recently. The writer seemed uncertain of the rules for this type of event and left some information out. I thought that you might like to get this information on dog shows out to all of your readers as well. All dog shows are managed by a show superintendent, who is present for the duration of the show and will answer any question regarding the appropriate rules and regulations. Further, all American Kennel Club-sponsored shows (conformation and obedience) will have free copies of the booklet Dog Show Rules at the superintendent's desk within the show location. A copy of the same can be ordered from the American Kennel Club's Web site (www.akc.org). I'm not an AKC employee, but I've been showing dogs for quite some time and, as such, questions have arisen that needed answering then and there ... hence I learned of the availability of this booklet. Rules change from time to time, so the booklet can be a handy item to have on hand. -- Jacki S., Grosse Pointe Shores, Mich.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JACKI</strong>:<br> \
	Many thanks, and I'm sure my readers will benefit from your information. The American Kennel Club is an important source of information about dog selection and care, show rules, breeding and many other topics. I strongly encourage dog owners -- whether they are interested in participating in dog shows or just improving their knowledge of care and training -- to visit the Web site above.";
	pawsText[67] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My 6-year-old cat, &quot;Trixie,&quot; has suddenly started peeing in front of the front door, on the plastic runner, instead of using her litter box. Why would she start doing this? She is an indoor cat who has been fixed. -- Perplexed in Virginia</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PERPLEXED</strong>:<br> \
	While it may or may not provide a quick answer, take Trixie to the veterinarian and have her checked out. Behavioral changes can sometimes signal an illness, so it's important to eliminate that possibility before trying other steps. If Trixie checks out OK, start monitoring her environment, and try to recall if anything has changed in your home, from furniture being moved around to a new roommate or pet. Cats can have trouble adjusting to what seem like small changes to you. Note what's going on outside as well. Is there an outdoor cat wandering the area regularly? Is wildlife visiting your property? Trixie may be reacting to another animal snuffling at the door. Meantime, whether or not you find the possible source of her behavioral change, replace the plastic runner with a new one and spray a cat repellent (available at the pet store) underneath, on and around it. You might want to set the old plastic runner down in front of the litter box to see if Trixie continues to urinate on it -- if she does, move the runner over the box for a few days and then remove it completely from the house. If Trixie continues to urinate in front of the door, clean up after her as soon as possible to prevent the urine from leaking into the carpet underneath. Try to catch her in the act and hiss or shake a can of pennies at her (don't do this after the act), then carry her over to the litter box. Repeat as necessary -- this could take several days or weeks -- but remain patient and encouraging. And of course, clean the litter box daily and make sure it's always accessible.";
	pawsText[68] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have two cats, 11 and 12 years old. The older one, &quot;Poppy,&quot; has had some stomach problems. She licks the woodwork and then will upchuck -- not all the time, but often. Why is she doing this? Is she missing something in her diet? -- Sherri, via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR SHERRI</strong>:<br> \
	While cats do &quot;upchuck&quot; from time to time -- sometimes coughing up a hairball, and sometimes vomiting outright -- when you notice a pattern such as Poppy's licking the woodwork and then becoming sick afterward, take action to prevent it. I don't think the reason Poppy is licking the woodwork is because she's missing something from her diet. Rather, I think that something in the wood has an attractive taste or odor and Poppy is licking it, thinking it's something good. That isn't a good thing, as that &quot;something&quot; may be a chemical either in the wood or in the paint or varnish that covers the wood. Poppy probably gets sick after licking the woodwork because her body is reacting to something toxic. You should prevent Poppy from getting at the woodwork. Mark the spots that Poppy regularly licks and spray the area with a cat repellent, available at pet stores. You also can set up a physical barrier between Poppy and her favorite spots, such as a piece of furniture or, worst-case scenario, tape. (Start with blue painter's tape, which will do the least damage to the wood finish.) If you catch Poppy licking a spot, shake a small can of pennies at her -- the noise will startle her and, if repeated every time she's caught in the act, may eventually dissuade her from licking. Last, but most important, mention the wood-licking to Poppy's vet at her next check-up. If there is a nutritional deficiency or a health issue, the vet is best equipped to identify it.";
	pawsText[69] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We have a male English Bulldog who is about to turn 16 months old, and within the past two days we have noticed that he appears to be having trouble climbing the stairs from our basement to the main floor. &quot;Joey&quot; climbs the stairs, but really slowly, unlike his usual self. Also, last night he yelped twice quite loudly and again he yelped loudly around 4 a.m. We are keeping a close eye on him, but he does not seem to be having any other problems. He is eating and drinking normally, his stool is normal and he doesn't seem to be running a fever. He played with his nylabone this morning, although my wife noted he went back to his enclosure afterward to sleep, which he doesn't normally do. We've booked an appointment with the vet in a couple of days, but do you have any advice in the meantime? -- Gary in Ontario, Canada</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR GARY</strong>:<br> \
	I'd say you're doing all the right things so far. You're closely monitoring Joey's activity, diet and sleep patterns, so you immediately noticed his problem with the stairs and didn't dismiss his nighttime yelps. Bulldogs have a high tolerance for pain -- part of their reputation as tough guys -- so a yelp is worth checking out. And you are doing just that, having scheduled an appointment with the veterinarian to double-check Joey's health. Some readers might think it's a bit obsessive to worry about every little change in Joey's behavior. However, bulldogs, despite their stubborn toughness, can have very specific health issues that breeders, owners and vets must watch for. Besides certain eye and skin issues, hip dysplasia is a possibility, as are certain heart conditions.  If Joey doesn't return to a normal pattern in two days, take him to the vet as scheduled. Of course if his condition worsens, take him right away; but otherwise, continue to monitor him closely.";
	pawsText[70] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I am part of a group bringing a dog park to Canton, Ga. Can you tell your readers about the benefits of dog parks? Thanks. -- Alessa S., Canton Paw Park Association (http://www.cantonpawpark.com )</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR ALESSA</strong>:<br> \
	Certainly! I am definitely for dog parks -- and not just in urban settings, but in suburban areas as well. Dog parks provide a place for pets to play off-leash, something that is becoming a luxury in the United States as municipal leash laws become more and more restrictive. Providing a place for dogs to play and work off excess energy -- without disturbing other members of the community -- seems like a win-win situation. But surprisingly, dog parks often face opposition from the community.  The most common argument is that tax dollars shouldn't be spent on a park that will only be used by a portion of the community. Others see dog parks as additional liability for a city or town, with potential lawsuits arising from incidents with off-leash dogs. I've even heard from dog owners who have had negative experiences at dog parks, most often when their dog is attacked by another dog. These viewpoints all merit consideration. A poorly planned and managed dog park can cause more problems than it solves, and it's always important to consider how municipal funds are spent. In the case of the Canton Paw Park Association, the dog park is funded through donations to the nonprofit group. Bad behavior in the off-leash park is another problem. But that is something the community of dog owners should tackle. Regulations and park rules can do only so much -- simple etiquette can help reduce issues, along with dedication to standard obedience training. That's the responsibility of the individual pet owner, and it's a responsibility they have regardless of whether a dog park is available to them or not. The dog park movement is beginning to take hold, however, and it's a trend I welcome.";
	pawsText[71] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We recently adopted a 6-month-old kitten from the local shelter. &quot;Buster&quot; behaves very well around the kids and me, and he's playful and loves climbing into my lap. But when company comes over, he runs and hides. Is this normal? -- Sarah G., via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR SARAH</strong>:<br> \
	This is very common behavior from cats, particularly those that have recently experienced a stressful situation such as being placed in a shelter. But even cats that haven't been exposed to a lot of stress can do this when unfamiliar people visit. Buster appears to have adapted well to his new home and is comfortable with you and the children, which is great. He's happy and healthy. But it may take him longer to adjust to strange new people in the house.  During the holiday season, make things easier for Buster by placing his food and water, his litter box and his favorite toys and blanket away from heavily trafficked areas of the house. A quiet room that he can access easily is ideal. If you want to introduce him to friends, go and pick him up and cradle him in your arms so that he feels safe, and bring him to your friends so they can pet him briefly and say hello. Then, let him go. He will probably run away again, which is fine. Unless Buster is acting very strangely -- hissing at familiar people, hiding for hours or not eating -- I would not worry too much about his behavior. He may never be friendly to everyone who walks in the door, but over time he may adjust more quickly to new faces and unfamiliar scents and make an appearance.";
	pawsText[72] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	As a Southerner recently transplanted to the Midwest, I'm worried about how the cold weather will affect my Chihuahua, &quot;Freddie.&quot; Will I be able to take him outside for walks? -- Kylie in Chicago</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR KYLIE</strong>:<br> \
	Smaller dogs do have a harder time in bitterly cold weather, so I would carefully gauge when and how often Freddie can go outside. Ask neighbors and friends for advice on taking dogs out in the cold. Meantime, a few basics should be followed for cold-weather pet care.</p> \
	<p>-  Make sure Freddie has a warm bed to curl up in, and that he stays well-hydrated during winter months. -  Purchase a doggie sweater and booties and make sure Freddie wears them every time you go outside. -  Keep him on a leash during walks, and monitor him carefully at all times.</p> \
	<p>-  If Freddie is shivering or limping, take him inside immediately, warm him up, and inspect his paws for cuts or frostbite (the frostbitten area will be colder than the rest of his paw).</p> \
	<p>-  For really cold, snowy or icy days, keep a pee pad inside for Freddie to use, and even designate an indoor &quot;go&quot; area if possible.</p> \
	<p>Sweaters or wraps and booties are available at local pet stores or online. For indoor eliminating, some small-dog owners actually use litter boxes. It may take a little training but can be invaluable on really cold days. Finally, talk to Freddie's veterinarian about your concerns. He or she will have valuable advice on keeping Freddie healthy and happy as you both acclimate to the colder climate.";
	pawsText[73] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	As part of my usual new year&rsquo;s resolution to lose weight, I also made a resolution this year for my dog &ldquo;Jerry&rdquo; to lose weight as well. We&rsquo;re both on a diet, and we walk together. Is it unusual for an owner to make a resolution for his dog? &mdash; Carl in Brooklyn, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CARL</strong>:<br> \
	I don&rsquo;t have any statistics on it, but I have a hunch that lots of owners include their pets in their new year&rsquo;s resolutions. And it&rsquo;s not an unwelcome idea, either &mdash; including positive changes for your pet as well as yourself can only be good. I applaud your including Jerry in your weight-loss plans, particularly in taking him with you for walks. This year, we should all resolve to spend more time with our pets. The American Kennel Club is encouraging dog owners to try new ways of training, such as training toward a goal like the AKC Canine Good Citizens Test (<a href="+akcLink+" target="+akcLinkTarget+">akc.org/events/cgc</a>), or training for a competitive event.  Cats, which seem to do well all by themselves, actually benefit from extra companionship and, especially if they&rsquo;re exclusively indoor cats, often need to be prompted toward more activity. Frequent, active play times, where the cat chases a toy or plays with an object dangled in front of it, should take place daily. In fact, all pets benefit from frequent interaction with their owners, regardless of whether they&rsquo;re cuddly or not (fish, I&rsquo;m thinking of you). So this year, resolve to not just spend more time with your pet, but to make an active difference in your pet&rsquo;s life. It will benefit both of you.";
	pawsText[74] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Our 2-year-old male tabby, &ldquo;Buster,&rdquo; loves toys &mdash; primarily fuzzy/foam balls and toy mice. I also got him a long, furry, limp fox toy that is meant as a tug-of-war toy for a dog. At first, he looked at me like I was crazy (&ldquo;Why would I play with that?&rdquo;), but since we&rsquo;ve moved to a new apartment, he drags it around like a security blanket. Some days he won&rsquo;t touch it at all, but a lot of the time we find him taking it by the neck and running with it across a room, or even over to his food bowl. Sometimes he has even placed the toy fox&rsquo;s head into his wet food bowl, which is both adorable and disgusting. Should we be concerned about his behavior, or keep taking pictures of our little cutie? &mdash; Laura, South Brunswick, N.J.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LAURA</strong>:<br> \
	Don&rsquo;t be too concerned, for now. Because you&rsquo;ve moved to a new apartment, Buster is probably staying close to something that is familiar &mdash; his fox toy &mdash; in a place that is unfamiliar. As he settles in to a new routine and new haunts, you may notice that he spends less time with his toy. Because the fox toy was designed as a tug-of-war dog toy, it&rsquo;s durable enough to withstand being dragged around, dunked in water bowls and the like. (For my readers, it&rsquo;s important to make sure toys that weren&rsquo;t originally designed for pets are safe for them to use: that they won&rsquo;t fall apart, that small parts won&rsquo;t come off and be ingested, that the materials are safe.) As Buster&rsquo;s toy is safe, I&rsquo;d say the main thing to do is occasionally wash it when it starts to get funky.  He may never completely stop dragging this toy around with him, but occasionally try to get him interested in other things, like dangle toys that he can chase around. It will add a bit of variety to his routine and keep him active and healthy.";
	pawsText[75] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Please remind your readers to vaccinate their puppies on schedule, exactly as advised by their veterinarian. My son, who lives in a community with many dog owners, heard recently that two puppies in the community died from parvovirus. Puppies are incredibly susceptible to this illness, and must be vaccinated against it. We recently rescued an adult dog, &ldquo;Shady,&rdquo; who became very ill with parvo because she&rsquo;d never been vaccinated. Fortunately, because she is bigger, she has responded well to treatment, but for a while she had a 50/50 chance. Most puppies don&rsquo;t have remotely as good a chance. Get them vaccinated! &mdash; Dee &amp; Oz at Little Moose Farm</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DEE &amp; OZ</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks for the warning. Readers, if you are holding off on getting your pets vaccinated for any reason, take heed of this advice and schedule a vet visit today.  Parvovirus is a extremely serious disease in dogs that causes severe diarrhea and vomiting, which in turn leads to severe dehydration. This alone is dangerous for puppies, but parvovirus also can attack the heart muscle, which can lead to sudden death. Dogs that survive the infection often remain weakened for life. The virus is transmitted through contact, particularly with infected fecal matter (dog poo). (Note: Not all cases of diarrhea and vomiting are parvovirus, but anytime a puppy exhibits the above symptoms and is feverish and lethargic, a vet should be contacted immediately.) Puppies usually need multiple vaccinations over a few weeks to ensure the parvo vaccine takes effect, and then they should be vaccinated annually. So it&rsquo;s critical to keep puppies on the vaccination schedule recommended by your vet. Parvovirus is just one of many health dangers that vaccination can prevent.";
	pawsText[76] = "<p>The American Kennel Club recently teamed with AOL&rsquo;s PawNation.com to find out what the top 125 dogs in pop culture were, and how they ranked. The criteria for making this list included how loudly students at certain colleges cheered for their mascots, and reader polls at PawNation. I&rsquo;m not entirely sure their research methods were sound, but I guess it was fun. </p> \
	<p>Topping the pop culture list was Snoopy. Do kids today even know about this &ldquo;timeless&rdquo; Peanuts comic strip character? I can&rsquo;t argue with it &mdash; I&rsquo;m a big fan of Snoopy, particularly his endless Sopwith Camel dogfights.</p> \
	<p>Texas A&amp;M&rsquo;s mascot, Reveille, made No. 2 on the list. This was the dog who was &ldquo;cheered&rdquo; into the rankings.</p> \
	<p>Hmm.</p> \
	<p>Other rankings seem fine: Scooby Doo rounded out the top three; Eddie, from the defunct &ldquo;Frasier&rdquo; series, was next; and Brian, the talking dog from &ldquo;Family Guy,&rdquo; got the No. 10 spot. I was a little confused by other rankings. Two songs made the top ten, &ldquo;How Much is That Doggie in the Window&rdquo; and &ldquo;Who Let the Dogs Out.&rdquo; Okay, I guess if cartoon pups can make the rankings, a completely abstract use of dogs in a symbolic manner by a rap group is fine, too. </p> \
	Anyway, I&rsquo;d love to list the top 25 or 50 or 125 claimed on the AKC/AOL list, but it&rsquo;s not to be found on either site and no actual link was given on the release. Way to go, AKC/AOL. Here&rsquo;s the top 10, anyway:<br> \
	1. Snoopy<br> \
	2. Texas A&amp;M&rsquo;s Reveille<br> \
	3. Scooby Doo<br> \
	4. Eddie from the TV show &ldquo;Frasier&rdquo;<br> \
	5. Pound Puppy toys<br> \
	6. Painting, &ldquo;Dogs Playing Poker&rdquo;<br> \
	7. Song, &ldquo;How Much is That Doggie in the Window&rdquo;<br> \
	8. Georgetown&rsquo;s Jack the Bulldog<br> \
	9. Song, &ldquo;Who Let the Dogs Out&rdquo;<br> \
	10. Brian Griffin from the animated TV show &ldquo;Family Guy&rdquo;";
	pawsText[77] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We have two dogs: a German shepherd, Brutus, whom we've had since he was a puppy, and a Belgian shepherd, Sheeba, whom we adopted from a shelter. Both dogs have their own set of dishes for water and food. The problem is that Sheeba guards both food dishes and won't let Brutus eat. We have to call Brutus over, and even then, it looks like he is sneaking to eat his own food. We know Sheeba came from a breeder who had many dogs, which is why she probably had to hoard her own food. I think that habit was brought over, but I don't know how to break it. Any advice? -- Irena H.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DEE &amp; OZ</strong>:<br> \
	Your hunch about Sheeba may be right. In an environment where she had to compete with many dogs, she intimidated other dogs in order to get her share. She's clearly taken the dominant role over Brutus in the household. It also sounds like she does obey your commands to come away from the food. This is a good thing, because you can work with Sheeba to train her that guarding the food is not a desirable action. Many experts recommend that you start this training by feeding Sheeba separately from Brutus -- either at a different time, or in a different place. Keep the training positive -- the goal is to help her relax and see the feeding area as a safe place.  The first few times, place her empty food dish in front of her. After she's investigated it, approach the dish (from Sheeba's side, not directly at her) with a scoop of food. Speak soothingly and encouragingly the entire time. Whenever Sheeba demonstrates a desirable action -- staying relaxed, not getting tense or guarding food from you -- place a small treat in the food dish. When she is completely comfortable eating with humans nearby, gradually bring Brutus back into the mix, with the same scenario: positive reinforcement only, treats only when she stays relaxed. This may take awhile, so be patient and careful, especially when reintroducing your second dog.";
	pawsText[78] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have two indoor cats, a  male and female, both fixed. A few months ago a fight broke out between  them and a neighbor cat that approached them on the screened porch. Even  though the fight was with the neighbor cat, my cats &ldquo;Bull&rdquo; and &ldquo;Sally&rdquo;  have been getting into vicious fights with each other ever since, with  Sally instigating them. I thought they were getting better recently, but  the fighting has broken out again, and now I'm noticing urine marking  in the front room as well. How can I keep the peace here? -- Melanie, via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR CONCERNED</strong>:<br />It will be very difficult to  rekindle your cats' friendship, but you can forge a peace treaty between  the two. Temple Grandin, in her excellent book &ldquo;Animals Make Us Human&rdquo;  (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), discusses cat fights and offers some ideas  for resolving them.</p> \
	<p>The incident that triggered your cats' problem is called &ldquo;redirected  aggression,&rdquo; Grandin explains. One cat, probably Sally, could not get to  the neighbor cat, so she turned that aggression on her companion.</p> \
	<p>Immediately after a fight, the cats must be separated -- put in  different areas of the house. For some cats, a temporary separation is  enough to reduce the aggressiveness and restore calm. But for your cats,  a gradual reintroduction will be necessary as it's clear the aggression  is still there.</p> \
	<p>Put the aggressive cat (Sally) into a carrier and then let Bull come  into the same room. If Sally starts hissing and spitting, put a blanket  over the carrier. Remove the blanket when Sally calms down. Gradually  increase the amount of time the carrier with Sally inside is in the same  room as Bull.</p> \
	<p>At the same time, consider giving both cats anti-anxiety medication  prescribed by their veterinarian. Hopefully, they will stop fighting  with a gradual reintroduction to each other, but if they don't, you will  need to keep them separated.";
	pawsText[79] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog &ldquo;Scraps,&rdquo; an 8-year-old Lab-collie mix, has a rather embarrassing problem. He has a lot of smelly gas, and when he eliminates, well &mdash; his poo smells. Like, to the point that I have to look away when I pick it up because my eyes water. Is this normal? Is there a way to stop this? &mdash; Melanie T., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CONCERNED</strong>:<br> \
	You should take Scraps to the veterinarian for a complete checkup, and be sure to mention every delicate detail of his poop and his gassiness. Bring notes to help you remember, in particular: Does the smell have a particular odor? How often is Scraps gassy? Have you noticed a pattern between, for example, when he eats and when he gets gassy? Does his poop always smell? What color is it? Is it firm or runny? (Bring a small sample with you, in a plastic bag or specimen cup.) The reason I want you to consult the vet first is that smelly elimination is often the first indicator of an illness. The illness may be minor and easy to treat or recover from, but it also may be more serious and need immediate medical attention. Only your vet can say for sure. If Scraps&rsquo; problem is not major, then the vet may recommend some changes in his diet. If he eats table scraps or gets into the garbage often, stop both of those behaviors. (Table scraps are often higher in fat than is recommended for pets, and garbage &mdash; well, you may have no idea what he&rsquo;s ingesting.) A supplement or medication also might be recommended, and if Scraps has a weight problem, the vet will recommend a diet to help him shed a few pounds.";
	pawsText[80] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a neighbor in my apartment building who I occasionally see carrying his little Pekingese outside, setting her on the sidewalk and holding her by the tail as he encourages her to &ldquo;go.&rdquo; He&rsquo;s a very nice guy, and other than this unusual method is kind to his dog, but I think this is a very inappropriate way to handle a dog. Is there anything I can do to help this little dog? &mdash; Concerned in Framingham, Mass.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CONCERNED</strong>:<br> \
	Communication is the best way to deal with any perceived problem. If he&rsquo;s a nice guy and you have spoken with him before, come down and say hello to him when he&rsquo;s outside with his dog. Ask if you can pet the dog. You&rsquo;ll want to broach the subject of the tail-holding during the conversation. Ask him if he has a leash for the dog and why he doesn&rsquo;t use it. There may be a reason why &mdash; such as the dog not behaving well while on the leash. If behavior is an issue, ask what kind of leash he&rsquo;s using. Some dogs do better using a harness-type leash, because it fits them more comfortably than a collar type. There&rsquo;s also a lot of advice available to help owners train their dogs to behave on the leash, so perhaps you can get him a book on the subject or, if you own a dog, offer pointers. Some owners don&rsquo;t put a leash on their dog because they claim not to have the time. If this is the reason, gently remind him that the leash is for the dog&rsquo;s safety and that it may help her &ldquo;go&rdquo; more comfortably than the current method. In any case, keep the conversation light and casual, or at least polite. Striking up a friendship can be rewarding for your neighbor, youself and his dog.";
	pawsText[81] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a precious little kitty (1 year old) that I got from a rescue that has taken a liking to relieving herself on my bed! What do I do other than keeping her caged? &mdash; Frustrated in Philadelphia</p> \
	<strong>DEAR FRUSTRATED</strong>:<br> \
	Take her out of the cage! I have a good idea why she&rsquo;s relieving herself on your bed. I don&rsquo;t know much about your living situation, but cats should not be caged or crated for long periods of time, and only to protect them from harm &mdash; not as a barrier or punishment. Cats are very different from dogs, and using a cage will not &ldquo;train&rdquo; her to do anything but be more angry. And cats will express anger and frustration in a way that you can&rsquo;t miss. Her relieving habit is most likely directly related to being stuck in the cage. She knows full well that you sleep on that bed! I&rsquo;ve had only one cat do the same to me, and it was entirely my fault. I accidentally shut him in my bedroom as I left for work. Cut off from my other cat, his food and his litter box, he expressed his displeasure quite clearly. But it only happened once. I made sure he was out of the room from then on before closing the door, and he never again was put in that position of having only one way to communicate. If you don&rsquo;t want your cat to soil the bed, keep her outside of your bedroom.  Even if you&rsquo;re in a studio and can&rsquo;t close off the bedroom, you can screen the bed (literally &mdash; a roll of window screening at the hardware store costs less than 10 dollars) to keep her away. But she needs relatively free rein around the rest of the house or apartment, access to food and her litter box, and a view of the outside. And put the cage into a closet, out of sight. Don&rsquo;t use it unless you&rsquo;re transporting her to the vet.";
	pawsText[82] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have two indoor cats, and I am going to have a dog soon. My question is, what is the best way to introduce them, and how long will it take to get them used to each other. We are going to have a baby gate, so the dog doesn&rsquo;t have the run of the house. &mdash; Lesley G, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LESLEY</strong>:<br> \
	The baby gate is a good start. It will limit the new dog&rsquo;s range, which will reduce the potential for fear and stress in your cats as they get accustomed to the newcomer. You&rsquo;ll also want to introduce the new dog very gradually, and avoid any aggression on the part of either the cats or the dog. If the dog is a puppy, introduction may be easier; if the dog is older, proceed very cautiously, as he or she may already have some experience with cats, perhaps negative. So ... introductions. All contact between the cats and dog must be supervised, particularly in the early stages. Hold the dog and allow the cats to approach and observe the newcomer. Give out treats all around as soon as you bring the dog in. Keep the initial contact time low &mdash; about 5 minutes at first &mdash; and slowly build that interaction time until the cats can tolerate having a dog in the same space for a half-hour or more. The instant that any of the pets shows aggression &mdash; hissing, growling, lunging and so on &mdash; remove the dog from the room. Never let it escalate into a physical attack. Pets do not &ldquo;work it out&rdquo; like humans do, and a physical confrontation has negative repercussions that can make it impossible for the pets to ever interact.";
	pawsText[83] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog &ldquo;Bart&rdquo; came inside from being in the backyard today and was limping a bit. I checked his paw, and it looks like he has a small cut on one of the pads. I&rsquo;m not sure from where, but there is still a bit of ice and snow around the edges of the yard. I disinfected the cut, but I&rsquo;m not sure what to do next &mdash; a Band-Aid, perhaps? &mdash; Worried in Burlington, Vt.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR WORRIED</strong>:<br> \
	A light gauze bandage, wrapped around the paw and taped in place, will protect Bart&rsquo;s paw while the cut heals. Don&rsquo;t wrap or tape so tightly that the circulation to the paw is affected &mdash; you just want to cover the cut. Check the bandage daily and replace when it becomes damp or dirty (which, if Bart likes going outside, may be daily). If your dog licks or tries to chew away the bandage, pick up a cone-style or Elizabethan-style protective collar at the pet store, or from Bart&rsquo;s veterinarian. If Bart&rsquo;s limp does not improve within about three days or the cut does not appear to be healing, take him to the vet to have the injury evaluated. Likewise if his paw becomes swollen. Meantime, head outside and try to get rid of sharp-looking ice patches, if possible. Remove any debris from Bart&rsquo;s run area and pick up any dog feces to reduce the chance of infection in his injured paw (or if he injures his footpads again for whatever reason).";
	pawsText[84] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Is it possible for a dog to have allergies, like hay fever? My 1-year-old mutt, &ldquo;Caleb,&rdquo; is scratching a lot and sneezing. &mdash; Janine in Madison, Wisc.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JANINE</strong>:<br> \
	Dogs can develop allergies to different things, just like people can. Dust, pollen and other allergens might set off a sneezing or itching reaction in pets. Dogs also can have negative reactions to food and medicines. You should note, however, that symptoms like hives, itching, vomiting and so on also can be indicators of an illness in pets, not allergies. If Caleb ingested a plant that he&rsquo;s not supposed to, or ate food that&rsquo;s not safe for dogs (like chocolate or onions), he could exhibit all sorts of strange symptoms. Another possibility is fleas, which not only make a pet itch like mad but can cause hives, sneezing and allergy-like reactions. As the weather gets warmer, flea infestation &mdash; even in dogs that haven&rsquo;t had it before &mdash; can become a distinct possibility. It&rsquo;s important to take Caleb to the veterinarian to rule out any other causes of his symptoms and to accurately determine what exactly he is allergic to. It may take more than one visit to get an exact diagnosis, but be persistent in getting to the cause of Caleb&rsquo;s itching and sneezing.";
	pawsText[85] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My 4-year-old Dachshund, &ldquo;Miss Itzy,&rdquo; is very aggressive with all of my neighbors, friends and some of my family. However, she&rsquo;s a sweetheart around my granddaughter and great-grandchildren. She has to wear a muzzle when she gets her nails trimmed or goes to the vet. I&rsquo;m so afraid she will bite someone. I love her to death and don&rsquo;t want to get rid of her. Can you help? - Maria, Marion, Ind.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MARIA</strong>:<br> \
	You should find out what your granddaughter and great-grandchildren are doing that makes Miss Itzy so calm around them. (Do they have dogs of their own? How do they train their dogs?) There&rsquo;s something about the way they interact with your dog that really calms her down. Miss Itzy is likely aggressive due to anxiety. The clues in your letter &mdash; aggression toward strangers, the groomer, the vet &mdash; show that she&rsquo;s got a lot of worries about these strange people. The groomer and vet are easy to spot &mdash; most dogs do not like nail trimming or getting exams and shots.  Another question is, how do you act around neighbors, the vet or groomer? Do you get anxious (maybe because you&rsquo;re worried that Miss Itzy will get anxious)? Dogs are really good at reading owners&rsquo; emotions, and Miss Itzy, devoted to you as she is, will get more anxious, and even take a protective posture, if she thinks you&rsquo;re afraid or in danger.  Talk to the veterinarian about prescribing anti-anxiety medication for Miss Itzy, and talk with a professional trainer, if possible, about ways to train your dog to settle down in unfamiliar situations. Also, observe your own behavior in different situations and try to keep a calm and level voice, even when your dog is barking her head off.";
	pawsText[86] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Can you remind your readers that chocolate is an absolute no-no for pets? I was at a friend&rsquo;s house and saw that the Easter baskets the kids had unwrapped were sitting out on the kitchen table, candies strewn everywhere. Their curious terrier, &ldquo;Rascal,&rdquo; kept sneaking onto a chair to sniff around the goodies. I was so worried for him, afraid he would eat the chocolate eggs or ingest the foil wrappers. Please tell your readers to put away the candy in a place that&rsquo;s hard for pets to reach. &mdash; Leah H., Philadelphia</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LEAH</strong>:<br> \
	You said it best, and I thank you! In the excitement of a holiday, it&rsquo;s easy to leave a lot of things lying around where pets can get at them, including chocolate and other dangerous items. But pets are an important responsibility. Chocolate is poisonous to dogs, and dogs also risk ingesting other dangerous things &mdash; like plastic Easter eggs that break into shards when chewed. Cats may chew on items that interest them, like the rustling &ldquo;grass&rdquo; that lines baskets. Be sure to pick up wrapping paper, tinsel or plastic grass, and fallen candies right away. Better yet, put pets in a separate area while the unwrapping is going on, and let them in after everything is cleaned up. If, after a celebration, your pet seems lethargic, won&rsquo;t eat, displays any sign of pain or distress, or is vomiting, take it to the veterinarian right away.";
	pawsText[87] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I recently lost my dog &ldquo;Mischa&rdquo; to an illness, and I&rsquo;m overwhelmed with sadness and guilt. Her death was very sudden; one day she was fine and then she was not. I can&rsquo;t help wondering if there was anything I could have done to prevent this from happening. Did I give her the wrong food? Was there something in her medications she might have had a reaction to? I&rsquo;ve had no answers from the vet. Am I wrong for constantly second-guessing myself? Should I just get over it? &mdash; Devastated in Dallas</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DEVASTATED</strong>:<br> \
	First, I&rsquo;m very sorry for your loss. Pets are so much a part of our families that losing them can be incredibly difficult. &ldquo;Getting over&rdquo; the loss of a pet isn&rsquo;t something anyone should be told to do &mdash; it&rsquo;s not unusual to feel sadness for a pet years after its death. A close friend of mine still speaks fondly of his dog King, who died when he was a boy. And I often miss pets I lost years ago. I personally feel that adults can grieve openly for pets in a way that they can&rsquo;t grieve for humans. We have to bear up and be brave at the loss of a relative or friend, perhaps be the one who must organize everything. But for a lost pet there are no such barriers to just grieving for them. On the other hand, you want answers for Mischa&rsquo;s sudden death. More questions should be asked of the veterinarian. What did her symptoms point to &mdash; an infection, a reaction to something? That the vet has no answer at all is curious, but I&rsquo;m not familiar with the circumstances. Continue pressing for answers from the vet.";
	pawsText[88] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog Coco, a small miniature Schnauzer, has been lost for six months now. I have tried to contact many people, such as the police, animal control and my vet, and placed posters around the neighborhood; however, nothing. It&rsquo;s very painful, the idea of not knowing how he is doing. I don&rsquo;t know if he is alive, or if I&rsquo;ll ever see him again. So what can I do about this situation? - Veronica, Hightstown, N.J.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR VERONICA</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m sorry to hear that your dog is still lost, Veronica. It&rsquo;s heartbreaking when a pet disappears. You&rsquo;ve tried contacting all the local resources possible, which is the recommended first step. You might want to check back in to animal control, as well as call around to shelters in a wider area to see if they have taken in a dog fitting Coco&rsquo;s description. If you have a picture, even better. Several lost pet Web sites can be found online, as well. <a href="+pets911Link+" target="+pets911LinkTarget+">Pets911.com</a> has a section where lost pets can be reported and found, or stray pets can be listed. <a href="+petfinderLink+" target="+petfinderLinkTarget+">Petfinder.com</a>, perhaps the best-known service, also has a large lost-pets database.  A totally free service is <a href="+missingpetLink+" target="+missingpetLinkTarget+">www.missingpet.net</a>, homepage of the Missing Pet Network, which is maintained by the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture.  When listing your pet, be sure to include his age, breed, coloring, size and weight, what type of collar and tag he&rsquo;s wearing, where he was last seen and any personality traits. If he answers to a certain call or likes a particular treat, mention that. Do not mention a reward in the listing. Consider also getting an e-mail account from one of the free e-mail services online and using it as your main contact.  Also, be on your guard against online theft. If contacted about Coco, don&rsquo;t give out credit card or Social Security numbers, your home address or other secure information.";
	pawsText[89] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I walk early every morning around my neighborhood, and almost every time I walk past the elementary school, I see people letting their dogs run around the grassy part of the playground. This is right around sunrise, before school opens. I don&rsquo;t think this should be allowed. What if a dog leaves a nasty &ldquo;surprise&rdquo; for the kids? Who should I call to report this? &mdash; Concerned in New England</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CONCERNED</strong>:<br> \
	While you raise a good point about dogs possibly leaving waste behind after romping around the playground, there doesn&rsquo;t appear to be any other harm done from your description of what&rsquo;s going on. Before calling to report these dastardly evildoers, be sure to check municipal, county or school board regulations about pets. There probably are regulations about when and where pets can&rsquo;t go &mdash; like inside the school or on the grounds during school hours &mdash; but there may not be any rule stopping pet owners from letting their dogs romp on the grass at 6 a.m. I&rsquo;m somewhat ambivalent about telling you how to stop a dog owner from letting his dog play in a controlled area. It&rsquo;s become very difficult for urban and suburban owners to find open, unregulated places for their pets to play. But it&rsquo;s certainly your right to voice your concerns, to the city or the school board. For pet owners faced with a dearth of open spaces, it&rsquo;s more important now than ever to make a good impression on neighbors, many of whom aren&rsquo;t thrilled about off-leash anything &mdash; even designated dog parks. Socialize your dog to humans and other dogs from a young age, make sure your pet responds promptly to basic commands, pick up its mess from sidewalks and grounds right away, and be considerate to others.";
	pawsText[90] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We have a lot of nature and wildlife surrounding our property, and much of that wildlife crosses through our yard and leaves &ldquo;pellets&rdquo; behind &mdash; deer, skunk, fox, coyote and so on. Our 7-month-old bearded Collie, &ldquo;Jesse,&rdquo; is uncontrollably attracted to these pellets and eats them. How do I stop this behavior? &mdash; Cindy K., Clinton Township, Mich.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CINDY</strong>:<br> \
	Stopping Jessie from eating those wildlife pellets (droppings, really) is indeed difficult. Dogs instinctively seek out unusual odors and often lick or eat other animals&rsquo; droppings as part of this behavior &mdash; after all, droppings can smell quite strong.  The most effective way to control Jesse&rsquo;s behavior is to remove the source of the problem &mdash; that is, the droppings themselves. This means combing through the property prior to letting Jesse out, and picking up and disposing of all droppings.  That can be pretty labor-intensive, not to mention having Jesse go nuts watching you walk around the yard while he&rsquo;s stuck inside. Another option is to fence off a portion of the yard big enough for Jesse to run around, while keeping wildlife out.  A third option is to put Jesse on a leash when you take him out, so you can keep him away from the wildlife droppings. You may be able to combine a couple of methods. In addition to regularly cleaning up the droppings, take Jesse out on a leash and have him &ldquo;go&rdquo; in roughly the same area every day. He&rsquo;ll soon associate this area as his elimination spot. Afterward, spend some time with him on basic obedience (sit, stay, heel) and walk him around the yard on his leash. When he darts out to sniff a dropping or other spot, give him a firm &ldquo;come!&rdquo; or &ldquo;heel!&rdquo; and, when he returns to your side, a small treat. In short, make obeying you more rewarding than exploring droppings.";
	pawsText[91] = "Several years ago, a frightening incident inspired automotive safety specialist Christina Selter to found BarkBuckleUP, a program that promotes pet safety. &ldquo;We had a near-accident with our dogs in the car. (We were) only traveling about 2 mph from a stop sign, when a car ran a red light and our little Betty fell off the seat. (She) wasn&rsquo;t hurt, but didn&rsquo;t want to be on the seat or in the car. It took some time to get her confident again.&rdquo; Selter, who has an SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) certification, created BarkBuckleUP to remind owners to restrain their pets properly in the car, using safety belts specially designed for pets. She travels the U.S. throughout the year, promoting the message and working with police and fire departments to support the safety program.  BarkBuckleUP also focuses on other safety issues, and Selter wants pet owners to stay aware. May is National Water Safety Month, and she reminds owners to keep a close eye on their pets while playing near or in the water. While explaining that most dogs love water, she warns, &ldquo;Dogs get tired just like us. They need to take breaks.&rdquo; Dogs also should wear a pet life vest when on the water with owners &mdash; in a boat or other watercraft, for example.  To keep dogs healthy, wash them off after they&rsquo;ve finished their swim. &ldquo;A few years ago in California at a pet event, there was a huge breakout of hot spots (on dogs) after going into the ocean,&rdquo; Selter says. &ldquo;Clean their fur thoroughly and their feet. Clean them off every time.&rdquo; The BarkBuckleUP website (www.BarkBuckleUP.com) features safety products for pets, including restraints for dogs and for pet carriers, life vests, first-aid kits, and more.";
	pawsText[92] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I need some strategies on some issues I&rsquo;m having with my Bichon, &ldquo;Sassy.&rdquo; First, she wakes me up at the same time, 4:45 a.m., and whines for me to come play with her. I&rsquo;ve tried putting her out of the room, tried the &ldquo;shhhh&rdquo; thing, but she&rsquo;ll just keep whining. Also, if another dog is in the yard, she will bark and go crazy. I&rsquo;ve tried distracting her, shaking coins in a can and using a spray bottle, to no avail. Can you help? &mdash; Maryann, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MARYANN</strong>:<br> \
	These behaviors can be frustrating, especially since Sassy sounds like a strong-willed, independent dog. In the first case, Sassy is on a different sleep schedule than you, and wants to be up and playing early. All of my dogs have been &ldquo;morning people&rdquo; too, and I&rsquo;m not, so I feel your pain. Is anything that might be triggering her to wake up, like a coffee maker set to go off at 4:45? Look and listen for odd sounds at that time. You also might try to have Sassy sleep in the other room all night. If she&rsquo;s used to sleeping with you, this will mean a few trying nights. Don&rsquo;t scold or shush her, and reward her with treats when she gets into her bed. Also, try adjusting her feeding, walking and play times, morning and night, and see if that makes any difference. Barking at strange dogs is an instinctive thing Sassy does. She doesn&rsquo;t respond to negative reinforcement (shaker cans, spray bottles), so try a positive approach. When Sassy starts to bark at a dog in the yard, say &ldquo;Enough&rdquo; in a calm but firm voice. When she stops barking and looks at you, give her a treat. You&rsquo;ll need to be patient and avoid giving commands in an angry voice or getting frustrated (which your pet can sense) and reverting to the old &ldquo;shhh!&rdquo; technique. Work calmly and consistently with Sassy on these issues.";
	pawsText[93] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Regarding the letter from a reader (Frustrated in Philadelphia) whose cat was soiling on top of her bed: I didn&rsquo;t get the impression that the person was keeping the cat in a cage as a matter of course, but rather was doing that, or considering doing it, as a result of the kitty relieving herself on the bed. Therefore, I wonder if the kitty wasn&rsquo;t doing that because of a urinary tract infection or other health problem, or didn&rsquo;t like the type of cat litter used, the location of the litter box or something else in the home that was probably stressing her.  Just wanted to bring up these possibilities, for what it&rsquo;s worth. &mdash; Jonathan N., Mayer, Ariz.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JONATHAN</strong>:<br> \
	My thanks &mdash; advice and suggestions from my readers is always welcome and worthwhile! Frustrated in Philadelphia should certainly discuss the possibility of a health issue, like a urinary tract infection, with her cat&rsquo;s veterinarian, and bring her in for a complete checkup. Litter-box location can be an issue with some cats, as can multiple cats sharing a litter box. An owner dealing with a cat &ldquo;going&rdquo; in areas other than the litter box could try placing a clean litter box over the area of the latest mess (after cleaning it up of course) and then gradually move it away and back to a more desirable location. Cats also react to stresses we humans might not notice or see as a stressful situation. Pay close attention to a cat&rsquo;s behavior, particularly when it&rsquo;s exhibiting problem behaviors like soiling outside the litter box, and see if it is reacting to a person, a new item in the home or something else.";
	pawsText[94] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a 1-year-old pug that really smells. I take &ldquo;Deb&rdquo; to have her bathed, and a day later she smells again. I was giving her a bath every week and was told that it would dry out her skin. What should I do about it? I hate to give her up, but she smells really bad. Sign me &mdash; Pinching My Nose in Rochester, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR PINCHING MY NOSE</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;ve never owned a dog that smelled so bad I had to give it up. But I have owned a few smelly dogs in my lifetime. In most cases of chronic odiferousness, a skin problem or other medical condition is the culprit. That&rsquo;s why I would recommend you take Deb to a veterinarian who has experience with pugs and their unique issues. Any time a dog&rsquo;s odor is frequently and noticeably unpleasant &mdash; not just when you get up close to their fur and sniff, but almost literally &ldquo;Oh man, Deb&rsquo;s in the room,&rdquo; you should have her checked out. One problem that&rsquo;s been noted in pugs is yeast infections, which can produce a rather gnarly smell. Dogs prone to these infections need careful monitoring and shouldn&rsquo;t be bathed too much (as dry skin can worsen the problem). Because pugs can suffer from skin problems and allergies, you want to be careful about how frequently Deb is bathed and what shampoos are used. Talk to the vet about best grooming practices for a pug.";
	pawsText[95] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Can you train a cat? &mdash; Janice in Wheeling, W. Va.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JANICE</strong>:<br> \
	Sure, although I&rsquo;m of the opinion that most cats train you. Seriously &mdash; they learn, pretty early on, what &ldquo;buttons&rdquo; to push to get you to give them food or treats, let them out, pet them or stop typing a pet column and pay attention to him or her.  But you can have the last laugh and train your cat to respond to commands or signals. Remember that cats are very different than dogs in their approach to the world and in how they respond. In fact, you&rsquo;ll want to somewhat mimic the way that your cat learns to train you: They observe you quietly, then test a few different methods of getting what they want and adopt the most successful one. It&rsquo;s also important to note that cats don&rsquo;t respond well to negative reinforcement. You can shake a can of pennies at them or hiss or yell &ldquo;no!&rdquo; when a cat is doing something you don&rsquo;t want it to do, and that might work in the short term, but mostly their response is to run away. If you&rsquo;re training a cat to specifically do something on command, you need to use positive reinforcement almost exclusively. This is rewarding the cat with a treat, a stroke or a kind word immediately after it responds to the movement you&rsquo;re trying to teach. The cat needs to develop a positive association with the activity. Keep training sessions short and somewhat spontaneous. Most cats don&rsquo;t last more than five or 10 minutes per session. And don&rsquo;t get discouraged if your cat doesn&rsquo;t &ldquo;get&rdquo; it after days or weeks. Instead, be patient and look for new ways to make the connection with your cat.";
	pawsText[96] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I was walking through the parking lot toward the supermarket today when I noticed a little dog barking inside a car that had all its windows shut. Even though the breeze was cool, the sun was still hot and I knew that dog had to be suffering. I ran inside the store and asked the customer service person to announce across the store asking the dog&rsquo;s owner to please go back to their car. I saw that the owner did run right out and take care of her dog. Can you please remind people that with summer almost here, not to leave their pets inside a hot car, even for a few minutes? &mdash; Sherry in Cleveland</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SHERRY</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks for reminding my readers, and for doing a great job being proactive about that dog. If the owner hadn&rsquo;t responded, the next step would have been to contact emergency services &mdash; fire or police &mdash; to come and rescue the dog, before temperatures inside the car became too much for the pet to handle. In fact, a closed car, even on a mild day, can become life-threateningly hot, especially for dogs. United Animal Nations, an animal protection organization (www.uan.org), cited a San Francisco State University study that showed on an 80-degree F day, the temperature inside a closed car rose to 99 degrees in just 10 minutes. A dog can suffer a heat injury in an air temperature of 90 degrees. The organization also noted that just cracking the windows doesn&rsquo;t help. So don&rsquo;t leave your pet unattended in the car, not even for a few minutes. You can learn even more at <a href="+mydogiscoolLink+" target="+mydogiscoolLinkTarget+">www.mydogiscool.com</a>.";
	pawsText[97] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m not afraid of dogs, but I worry about getting bitten sometimes. My older brother told me that only mean dogs will bite, but I&rsquo;m not sure about that. How can I tell when a dog is about to bite? &mdash; Kerry in South Dakota</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR KERRY</strong>:<br> \
	 Unfortunately, it&rsquo;s not true that only &ldquo;mean&rdquo; dogs bite. Any dog can bite, even a gentle one, if it is in pain, startled or protecting something like its puppies or a toy. So, your instinct is right on: Don&rsquo;t be afraid of dogs, but use caution and respect when interacting with them. The U.S. Postal Service has some tips to follow to minimize the risk of being bitten:</p> \
	<p>&bull; Don&rsquo;t run past a dog. The dog&rsquo;s natural instinct is to chase and catch prey</p> \
	<p>&bull; If a dog threatens you, don&rsquo;t scream. Avoid eye contact. Try to remain motionless until the dog leaves, then back away slowly until the dog is out of sight.</p> \
	<p>&bull; Don&rsquo;t approach a strange dog, especially one that&rsquo;s tethered or confined.</p> \
	<p>&bull; While letter carriers are discouraged from petting animals, people who choose to pet dogs should always let a dog see and sniff them before petting the animal.</p> \
	<p>&bull; If you believe a dog is about to attack you, try to place something between yourself and the dog, such as a backpack or a bicycle.</p> \
	<p>You can find more information about preventing dog bites at <a href="+dogbiteLink+" target="+dogbiteLinkTarget+">http://www.avma.org/public_health/dogbite/default.asp</a>.";
	pawsText[98] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I should buy stock in the aluminum foil industry? My 6-year-old boxer/hound mix, Shera, will not stay off the furniture. My bed and living-room furniture are lined with aluminum foil to stop her from climbing them. I have a 14-year-old dog, Bubba, who sleeps with me at night, but never occupies the bed or furniture by day. Shera is kennel trained and sleeps in her kennel at night with the door fastened. Bubba is getting near the end, and I don&rsquo;t want to take on another dog until I solve this problem with Shera. Would it be best to wait until Bubba is not sleeping with me to correct this territorial issue? &mdash; Susan W., via email</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SUSAN</strong>:<br> \
	I don&rsquo;t think this is a territorial issue so much as an issue of Shera figuring out how far to push her boundaries. Naturally, she will want to get up on the couch or the bed just like Bubba. But you don&rsquo;t have to wait until Bubba is gone to start addressing Shera&rsquo;s behavior. You can choose to wait &mdash; especially if taking care of Bubba is stressful right now and you just don&rsquo;t want to deal with a new challenge. Shera&rsquo;s behavior probably will not change during this period. But if you have the time and energy, start training Shera to stay off the furniture. It&rsquo;s a matter of you being the leader of the family, and what you say goes. That means if Bubba gets to sleep on the bed and Shera doesn&rsquo;t, too tough for Shera. As far as how: I&rsquo;d recommend spending more time with Shera, playing or doing basic obedience training on the leash, next to the furniture she likes to jump on. When she wants to get on the couch, tug her away, have her face you and command &ldquo;sit&rdquo; or &ldquo;lie down&rdquo; and &ldquo;stay.&rdquo; Basically, retrain her way of thinking about the purpose of those rooms.";
	pawsText[99] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a 9-month-old Dachshund, &ldquo;Betty,&rdquo; whom I have trained to use &ldquo;wet pads.&rdquo; She has been very good, with one exception: When she has to urinate she gets her front paws on the pad and starts going, and the urine ends up half on the pad and the rest on the floor (thank God I have tile). It is hard for me to take her outside. I don&rsquo;t want to scold her, as it would only confuse the situation. Any suggestions? &mdash; Kay, via e-mail.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SUSAN</strong>:<br> \
	I like that you&rsquo;re keeping Betty&rsquo;s training positive, and I think that a combined solution can work here. Use a piece of wood to create a bumper that can be placed against the edge of the pee pad. It doesn&rsquo;t need to be very high &mdash; three or four inches at most &mdash; but it should extend to both edges of the pad where Betty usually hangs her butt. Duct tape the wood to the floor. Take Betty to the pee pad on a leash for the next few days, around the time that she typically uses it. Let her investigate the bumper, and then lead her onto the pad, facing her usual direction. Let her start peeing on her own. She should automatically move forward before squatting to pee. As soon as she does this and starts going, give her lots of praise and when she&rsquo;s finished, add a treat and more praise. If she doesn&rsquo;t automatically move up to avoid the bumper, stand in front of her while holding her leash and give the command &ldquo;come,&rdquo; and then &ldquo;stay&rdquo; when she&rsquo;s in position. Let her continue the pee ritual and follow with lots of praise. The idea here is to get her to go &ldquo;Oh, I get it!&rdquo; or at least associate the middle of the pad with good things. When she starts going straight to that position without prompting, remove the bumper board. Repeat the training session, with lots of praise when she goes in the middle of the pad.";
	pawsText[100] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m writing in response to Frustrated in Philadelphia concerning a cat soiling on the top of her bed. I agree that urinary tract issues could be the problem. Something else to consider is diabetes. I had a cat that suddenly starting urinating on piles of clothes and on top of beds. He also had lost weight. Watching the cat, I saw him &ldquo;camping out&rdquo; over the water bowl often, which caused massive clots in the litter and wherever he went. Obsessive thirst is a sign of diabetes, so I took him to the vet, and we are now giving him insulin shots twice a day. Hence, the problem with going outside the box has ceased. &mdash; Jeanne M., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SUSAN</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks! That is definitely another possibility to consider. Cat owners, if at any time your cat shows a change in behavior or begins repeatedly doing undesirable things that it didn&rsquo;t do before &mdash; such as going outside the litter box, eating or drinking changes, or hissing at seemingly nothing &mdash; bring your cat to the veterinarian. Other signs of ill health in a cat include a dirty or matted coat &mdash; cats are obsessive about cleaning themselves, so this can be a big sign of a problem &mdash; wheezing, drooling or lethargy. And if your cat just doesn&rsquo;t seem like itself but you can&rsquo;t pinpoint any clear symptoms, check with the vet anyway. Cats are good at hiding illness; it&rsquo;s an instinctive survival mechanism.";
	pawsText[101] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	A friend of mine told me that he trained his dog to go in a specific spot in his backyard by using a scented rock to mark the spot. How does that work, and where can I get this rock? &mdash; Frank in West Roxbury, Mass.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR FRANK</strong>:<br> \
	Your friend essentially trained his dog to identify a particular scent with a location that&rsquo;s OK for him to eliminate. Using a focal point like the rock is pretty helpful when you&rsquo;re trying to train your dog to do this.  Hopefully the scent is unique enough that the dog won&rsquo;t smell it elsewhere in or around his neighbor&rsquo;s house! You can most likely find something like the scented rock (or a similar training tool) at a local pet store or online. Look under house training or basic obedience. Most dogs can be trained to use a specific spot, or several designated spots. It&rsquo;s best if this training begins early in a dog&rsquo;s life. If the dog is used to just running anywhere in the yard to do his business, disassociating him from this behavior is necessary and adds time to the process. You&rsquo;ll also need to be absolutely disciplined yourself with this method &mdash; taking the dog out at specified times, daily, to that spot, until he completely associates the area with elimination.  Ultimately, you&rsquo;ll want to be able to just let the dog outside at that specified time and have him go on his own in that spot, although some dogs may never reach that point. The upside of this, of course, is that your lawn will remain free of little surprises as well as yellowed spots on the grass. The extra benefit, however, is that you give your dog a little more &ldquo;face time&rdquo; as you work with him to use the designated spot, something that rewards both of you.";
	pawsText[102] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog Caitlen will be 15 next month. Last year she had her teeth cleaned and developed a very bad infection, and since then she has had mouth ulcers. I&rsquo;ve been to the vet with her four times trying to solve this. She has been given antibiotics and steroids, and nothing has gotten rid of them all. Caitlen is eating and still has her bathroom times outside. What causes these ulcers, and how do I get rid of them? Were they caused by the original infection? &mdash; Linda J., via email</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LINDA</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m sorry to hear of Caitlen&rsquo;s troubles. I&rsquo;m sure you&rsquo;ve already gone to the trouble of switching out her old feeding dishes with new ones, and it&rsquo;s clear that you&rsquo;re keeping a close eye on her behavior and watching for lethargy, drooling or other signs of distress. According to Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM, on vetmedicine.about.com, mouth ulcers can have a number of causes, including bacterial infection and autoimmune disorders. Caitlen&rsquo;s age could also be a factor. Consider taking Caitlen to a veterinarian who specializes in dermatology. A list of certified veterinary dermatologists can be found at www.acvd.org. The specialist will most likely take a biopsy or a scraping of one (or more) of your dog&rsquo;s mouth ulcers in order to determine exactly what is causing them. The vet then can prescribe medicine targeting the cause of the ulcer &mdash; whether it is a bacterial infection, autoimmune disorder, or something else. You also might want to consult a vet who specializes in your dog&rsquo;s particular breed &mdash; as some breeds are more susceptible to certain illnesses than others &mdash; or a vet who deals specifically with older dogs that have an increased array of health needs.";
	pawsText[103] = "The Dog Days are here. It&rsquo;s hot, Independence Day is well past, and Labor Day is a long way off. Here are a few books that can alleviate the summer doldrums: &ldquo;Head to Tail Wellness: Western Veterinary Medicine Meets Eastern Wisdom&rdquo; by Stacy Fuchino, V.M.D.  Alternative medicine has gotten sidewise looks in the past from vets and owners alike. It&rsquo;s fine to go to an acupuncturist yourself, but what good does it do for a dog or cat? Dr. Stacy Fuchino, who has augmented his degree in veterinary medicine with studies in Eastern medicine and Feng Shui, argues that it does a world of good. He presents case studies from his own practice of pets with chronic illnesses that improved following treatment with a combination of Western medical treatment and Eastern practices.  &ldquo;Cat-echisms: Fundamentals of Feline Faith&rdquo; by Ellis Weiner &amp; Barbara Davilman This is a fine example of the pet-persona genre, which many cat lovers probably will find endearing. &ldquo;Cat-echisms,&rdquo; as the title suggests, bases its style on the Catholic method of outlining fundamental beliefs and principles through a question-and-answer series. This is a small book, short enough to read in one sitting or just to leave on your coffee table.  &ldquo;Stay&rdquo; by Allie Larkin  Finally, a bit of fiction to chew on. &ldquo;Stay&rdquo; takes a fur-laden twist when our heroine, Savannah, impulsively buys a puppy off the Internet. (I won&rsquo;t go into all the reasons why Internet pet sales are wrong, but the author does take pains to point out many of them.) If you&rsquo;ve ever owned a big dog, you&rsquo;ll immediately identify with Joe and Savannah&rsquo;s first day together. The slobbery wake-up call. The harrying first walk with an excited canine. The big pile of poo on the carpet. Yes, it&rsquo;s not your typical romance novel. But it&rsquo;s definitely worth a read.";
	pawsText[104] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have two 2-year-old neutered canine brothers (I found out after the fact that it is not a good idea to get them from the same litter).  They have lots of forested room to roam, but &ldquo;Jake&rdquo; &mdash; the dominant one &mdash; occasionally insists on peeing on the deck.  I can&rsquo;t catch him at it.  Why does he do that, and how can I get him to stop? &mdash; Carolyn V., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CAROLYN</strong>:<br> \
	That can be tough to stop, since the deck is often considered part of the family living area for everyone, including the dogs. You&rsquo;ll need to regain control of the deck area and remind Jake who&rsquo;s boss. Whenever the dogs are off-leash, roaming through the yard and woods, block access to the deck and don&rsquo;t allow them on until you have called them up the steps and clipped a leash on Jake and his brother. You may want to have a second person leash the less-dominant dog. Jake may, at this time, attempt to tug himself over to his usual marking spot, and drag you with him. Give him a firm &ldquo;no&rdquo; and order him to sit and stay. At this time you can take his brother inside the house while you work with Jake. For the next several days or weeks, the deck is going to become Training Central. Work with Jake and his brother, separately. Whenever Jake begins to sniff around or tries to mark something, firmly tell him &ldquo;no&rdquo; and continue giving him basic obedience commands. When he follows your commands, and especially when he stops sniffing and obeys rather than tries to mark, give him lots of praise and treats (if you choose). To further discourage marking, clean the areas he has marked and treat with an odor neutralizer.";
	pawsText[105] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I was wondering what kind of medicine to give a cat that has asthma. My cat &ldquo;Jack&rdquo; had an asthma attack last night. Are there any home remedies I can use? &mdash; Cathy S., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CATHY</strong>:<br> \
	Only your veterinarian can determine the right medicine to give to your cat. It&rsquo;s very important that you take Jack to the vet for a complete checkup in the next few days. (If he seems distressed or continues to have trouble breathing, take him to vet right away.) Tell the vet the symptoms Jack had during his asthma attack &mdash; any wheezing, distress or odd behavior before the attack, and any weakness or lethargy before, during or after. If he has shown the symptoms before, describe when they occurred and the intensity. Don&rsquo;t try to diagnose Jack&rsquo;s problem yourself, and don&rsquo;t try a home remedy until a proper diagnosis has been made. There are some very important reasons for this. First, cats can &ldquo;wheeze&rdquo; due to something as benign as a hairball, or as serious as an undiagnosed heart problem. Only your vet can tell. Second, the type of problem, and its extent, is a big part of determining what medicine to give the cat. Only your vet can do this. This is not to put down home remedies for pets. Many owners swear by homeopathic remedies developed to treat common pet issues like anxiety, and every cat owner knows how most cats react to catnip &mdash; an herb that can be grown on a windowsill. But most acute illnesses need professional medical diagnosis and treatment so Jack can recover quickly and return to a healthy norm.";
	pawsText[106] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Have you ever covered the topic of hot spots on dogs before? &mdash; Barb, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BARB</strong>:<br> \
	I have, although most of the time this pesky condition comes up as part of another topic. Hot spots are surface skin infections that generally look like circular bare patches in a dog's fur and can be painfully itchy. They sometimes smell bad and ooze pus, but the most common sign of a hot spot is your dog being agitated and constantly scratching, licking or biting the affected area. Dogs can develop hot spots from scratching flea bites, underneath tangled or matted hair, after swimming at public beaches and more. Untreated hot spots will spread, and while there are home remedies -- like dabbing a 50/50 vinegar-water solution on the spot a few times daily -- your veterinarian can recommend the most effective treatment. Certainly, if home treatment doesn't work or your dog's condition worsens, you should consult a vet. Prevention -- or management after a bout with hot spots -- is important. After your dog goes swimming, shower it off well, dry as much as possible and wipe the outer part of the ears with a dry cotton ball. Treat regularly for fleas to minimize their impact. Groom your dog regularly -- especially if it has a thick coat -- to prevent his undercoat from getting matted and trapping moisture and bacteria against the skin.";
	pawsText[107] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We adopted a 2-year-old spayed female cat. &ldquo;Trudy&rdquo; has a problem when she pees in her litter box. She tends to spray over the top of the box. Someone suggested a covered cat box, so I found two at garage sales. She still pees to the back, and the pee drips down the back of the box where it clips on. Why is she doing this? I use litter she likes. Is this just a habit, or should I take her to the vet and get checked out? We really don&rsquo;t want to take her back just because of this. She is so sweet. Is there anything else we can do? &mdash; Linda D., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LINDA</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s always worth a trip to the veterinarian just to rule out any health problems. If Trudy checks out OK, there may not be much else to do after that. I&rsquo;ve seen cats before that sprayed over the top of their litter boxes. In one case it was a dominant male in a three-cat household that clearly wanted everyone to know this was his box. He refused to use a covered box and would pee outside of the one that was installed, so his owner put the old box back and built a splashguard &mdash; cardboard wrapped with foil &mdash; that drained back into the litter box. That cat loved spraying on the splashguard all the more because of the sound of water hitting the tinfoil. Trudy does not appear to have this problem. She&rsquo;s not refusing her litter box, which is very good. Don&rsquo;t take her back because of this minor issue. If the veterinarian doesn&rsquo;t find anything wrong, continue to rinse the litter box top after every cleaning, and perhaps rig a splash-guard system that prevents the urine from collecting in the rim.";
	pawsText[108] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	If you can get this information to Linda J., whose dog, Caitlin, had mouth ulcers, I think she would appreciate it. There is a relatively new product on the market called Vetericyn. I used it on my elderly horse who also had a terrible erosion of his gum. It looked better in about four days and healed in two weeks! &mdash; Carol S., via email</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CAROL</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks! Vetericyn&rsquo;s website (http://www.vetericyn.com) claims the treatment reduces healing time for wounds by up to 60 percent, and that it&rsquo;s nontoxic and doesn&rsquo;t damage healthy tissue. Now, I tend to look askance at any product that claims to be a cure-all, so I did a bit of research on this relatively new product, which has been touted to the equine world for about a year and is beginning to take off as a treatment for household pets. Vetericyn is a mixture of ionized water and very low amounts of bleach and sodium (salt) &mdash; all of which are pretty effective at killing bacteria, viruses and fungi. But some horse owners have mentioned on equine forums that it was not effective in helping wounds heal. Others think it&rsquo;s a great product.  Does this mean you shouldn&rsquo;t use Vetericyn? Feel free to give it a try. If your pet is suffering from a sore that won&rsquo;t heal, however, I strongly recommend you work with your vet during treatment so he or she can monitor your pet&rsquo;s progress and provide treatment alternatives should they be needed.";
	pawsText[109] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I wanted to tell you a story about the cat who adopted us. In 1930 my brother and I lived with our parents on the fourth floor of a tenement building in the Lower East Side of New York City. We had a fire escape outside the bedroom window of our four-room apartment. In the summer, Mama opened the windows wide to let the fresh air in. It was on one of these hot summer days that a pussycat brazenly came in through the open window. It looked starved, and my brother and I begged our parents to let it stay. They agreed. We fed &ldquo;Cat&rdquo; bread and milk, and later, scraps from our table. Every evening when my father came home from work, Cat would take a flying leap and land on his shoulder. My father loved the greeting. After awhile though, Cat started leaving through the window again and coming back a few hours later. She also seemed to get fatter and fatter, until we realized she was pregnant. Cat delivered four babies on towels my mother laid out on the bathroom floor. My mother gave three of the kittens to neighbors and we kept the fourth, an all-white male we named &ldquo;Whitey.&rdquo; Whitey stayed with us through the winter, but by the next spring he got as restless as his mother and started leaving through the fire escape window. One day he went out and never came back again. &mdash; Pearl M., Morse Township, N.J.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CAROL</strong>:<br> \
	Things were so different for pets and their owners back then. Pet food was an unheard-of extravagance, and veterinary care was not so common for housepets. Thank you for sharing!";
	pawsText[110] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a tip for Kay, who wrote that her 9-month old Dachshund is trained to use a wet pad but tends to miss to one side. She could try using standard kitty-litter boxes, which have high sides. If they are too small for &ldquo;Betty,&rdquo; another option is large plastic storage boxes. I have a 10-pound Chihuahua, and the storage boxes work perfectly. I keep an extra storage box so that I can wash the other one when it needs cleaning. I hope she gives it a try! &mdash; Teresa P., Manchester, NY</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR TERESA</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks! Those are great suggestions, and I hope Kay will give them a try.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	In regard to the letter about an owner&rsquo;s spayed female cat that was spraying over the edge of her litter box: I have two male cats and one female, and the males do that sometimes. My solution was to buy regular, no-lid litter boxes (I have three) because they&rsquo;re much easier to clean. Then I bought three 29-pound plastic tubs and turned them on their sides so the litter boxes fit right in.  I put one sheet of newspaper under the litter box, and one sheet against the back of the tub. This way the pee overspray doesn&rsquo;t puddle under the litter box. At cleaning time, I replace the paper, scoop the litter, quickly wipe down the sides of the tub ... and everybody&rsquo;s happy. &mdash; Lisa P., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LISA</strong>:<br> \
	Great idea! That&rsquo;s a fast solution for cleanup as well. Thanks so much for sharing it!";
	pawsText[111] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a 1-year-old golden retriever, &ldquo;Hal,&rdquo; and he has contracted puppy warts. I have been told there is no treatment for this, and the only recommendations I&rsquo;ve received are to give him multivitamins and an occasional treat with honey on it. I&rsquo;m hoping this will clear up in the next few weeks, as I usually put him in doggy day care two or three days a week, and they won&rsquo;t allow him as this is extremely contagious. Do you have any tips on any other form of treatment that would clear this up? &mdash; Sue, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SUE</strong>:<br> \
	Unfortunately, because puppy warts are caused by a virus, there is no treatment that will cure Hal quickly. The infection has to clear up on its own. Multivitamins will help keep Hal physically strong so that his immune system keeps working to get rid of the virus, but other than that, time is the only cure. Puppy warts normally clear up after about 45 days. Be sure to just let them go away on their own, and don&rsquo;t try to remove them yourself.  It is inconvenient for your puppy to be banished from day care during this period, but hang in there. If you&rsquo;re unable to stay with Hal all day or check in on him during your workday, ask a friend to stop in and spend some time with him so he&rsquo;s not by himself in the house all day.  If there&rsquo;s one bright spot of news, it&rsquo;s this: Once Hal recovers from puppy warts, he won&rsquo;t catch them again.";
	pawsText[112] = "<p>As we swing into fall, you may be looking for more dog-training information or a bit of canine-related entertainment to go along with the change of seasons. Here are a few books that might catch your interest.</p> \
	<p>&ldquo;51 Puppy Tricks&rdquo; (Quarry Books, $18.99) was published late last year, but just recently crossed my desk. It&rsquo;s a fun book that teaches both basic behavioral-training techniques and tricks that most puppy training manuals don&rsquo;t dare to tackle. Written by Kyra Sundance, who trains acrobatic stunt dogs and has a couple of other dog-training manuals under her belt, this is a colorful, informative book loaded with photographs and detailed breakdowns of tricks for puppies up to 2 years of age.</p> \
	<p>&ldquo;Oh My Dog&rdquo; by Beth Ostrosky Stern, with Kristina Grish (Simon &amp; Schuster, $25.99) is for owners or potential dog owners looking for a general care and training manual. The 512-page book covers pet selection and potential costs, helping a new puppy settle in, and training, diet and health tips. Stern is perhaps better known as a television personality and as Howard Stern&rsquo;s wife, but she&rsquo;s also a spokeswoman for North Shore Animal League America (a no-kill animal rescue and adoption organization) and is involved with other rescue organizations.</p> \
	<p>&ldquo;Small Dog, Big Dog&rdquo; by Barbara Karant (Gallery Books, $25) is a beautifully photographed collection of dogs of all sizes. More than 180 dogs representing 60 different breeds and ages from 6 to 14 years old grace the full-color pages. This one will hold a place on your coffee table and keep charming you.";
	pawsText[113] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read Linda&rsquo;s letter (&ldquo;Cat&rsquo;s Aim Is Off the Mark&rdquo;), and we also had the same problem. I bought a large plastic tote that was &ldquo;above the aim&rdquo; and used that in place of the lid by setting it up sideways and sliding the litter box into it. Problem solved! &mdash; Sharon L., Kissimmee, Fla.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We used a small doggie litter box to address this problem with an older cat at my workplace. We also placed pee pads underneath and against the wall just in case her aim was way off. &mdash; Ann in Rochester, N.Y.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I had this problem with &ldquo;Gabriel,&rdquo; our 8-year-old Maine Coon. After observing him, I realized that as a senior cat, he couldn&rsquo;t squat to pee as well as he used to and so he would overshoot the box. I finally made Gabriel a &ldquo;custom&rdquo; litter box that solved the issue permanently. I bought a large Rubbermaid storage container and simply cut a doorway into the side of it for him. With the container&rsquo;s almost 18-inch walls, there simply is no overshooting or spraying over the top. You have to use a box cutter or carpet knife to cut out the opening (be very careful not to slip and cut yourself). Both Gabriel and I are happy campers! &mdash; Brett N., Atlanta</p> \
	<strong>DEAR READERS</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks for writing, all of you! I&rsquo;ve definitely had a lot of responses, suggesting that even though a cat missing the litter box is usually a minor issue, it&rsquo;s very, very common. Again, if you&rsquo;re concerned about a cat&rsquo;s spraying over the edge of the box, bring it to the vet for a checkup, just to rule out anything physically wrong.";
	pawsText[114] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I moved into a home in rural Vermont this summer and was rather terrified one morning when I walked out into my backyard and found myself face to face with a bear. I ran back in the house, and it trundled off into the woods. Later, my neighbors told me the bear is well-known in the area and that some residents, including my home&rsquo;s former owner, used to feed it. What can I do to keep it out of my yard? &mdash; Jessica, via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR READERS</strong>:<br> \
	Bears can be a real nuisance &mdash; although in many places it&rsquo;s human encroachment that exacerbates the problem &mdash; and when well-meaning humans feed them, they become more than a nuisance: They&rsquo;re then a danger. Let the Vermont Fish &amp; Wildlife office (<a href="+vermontfwLink+" target="+vermontfwLinkTarget+">http://www.vtfishandwildlife.com</a>/) near you know about the bear. Unlike some states and urban areas, the office may not be able to come out and capture or kill the bear, but they will give you advice on how to reduce the risk of another surprise visit.</p> \
	<p>Meantime, follow these steps as well:<br> \
	&bull; Don&rsquo;t leave garbage cans outdoors; store in a shed or garage and have a well-latched cover.<br> \
	&bull; Don&rsquo;t place garbage on the curb the night before trash pickup.<br> \
	&bull; Feed your pets indoors.<br> \
	&bull; After a barbecue, clean the grill well. Store inside if possible.<br> \
	&bull; If you have a bird feeder, empty it or take it inside for at least four weeks.</p> \
	Keep in contact with your neighbors about the bear. If you or they continue to have problems, stay in contact with Vermont Fish &amp; Wildlife. The USDA Animal Damage Control Unit is another resource (<a href="+usdaanimalLink+" target="+usdaanimalLinkTarget+">http://www.aphis.usda.gov/wildlife_damage</a>/).";
	pawsText[115] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have three rescued dogs that each dig a small hole, usually with their teeth, and proceed to eat the dirt. I feed them quality food, so I don&rsquo;t know what they&rsquo;re after. Is this typical behavior or are they lacking a mineral that the dirt is providing? I&rsquo;m also not real happy about the holes in the lawn. I&rsquo;ll bet I am not the only one with this issue. &mdash; Jeannette V., Billings Mont.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JEANNETTE</strong>:<br> \
	You&rsquo;re right, this behavior is actually fairly common and a source of distress for a lot of dog owners. Termed &ldquo;pica&rdquo; &mdash; defined by the Angell Memorial Hospital&rsquo;s Book of Wellness and Preventive Care for Dogs as &ldquo;an abnormal desire to eat things that are indigestible&rdquo; &mdash; this behavior includes eating dirt and rocks. Some dogs will eat sticks, socks or whatever is handy. A common form of pica is coprophagia, a fancy term for &ldquo;eating poop,&rdquo; which many dog owners also deal with. Pica is a symptom of obsessive-compulsive disorder, although a nutritional deficiency also can be a cause. So the first thing to do is consult the dogs&rsquo; veterinarian. The vet may ask you to bring in samples of the dogs&rsquo; stool to check for worms or other problems. (Separate each dog&rsquo;s sample in plastic baggies labeled with their names.) Even if the vet doesn&rsquo;t find a physical cause, he or she may recommend you add a vitamin supplement to their diets. You&rsquo;ll also need to address the obsessive-compulsive component. This means going outside with the dogs (or taking them out one by one for awhile). When they start digging or chewing at the ground, distract them immediately and call them over for a short spell of basic obedience training, rewarding them with either treats or praise depending on your training style. You also must fill in and re-sod the small holes in the lawn. ";
	pawsText[116] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Since becoming a cat owner (I adopted &ldquo;Sally&rdquo; in March), I&rsquo;ve had this fear that something will go wrong with her and I won&rsquo;t catch it in time, like an illness or injury. Sometimes she meows a lot, and I&rsquo;m not sure why it is, but I&rsquo;m embarrassed to contact the veterinarian because it doesn&rsquo;t seem like a big problem. When should I call the vet? &mdash; Gerry T., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR GERRY</strong>:<br> \
	That you&rsquo;re worried about the possibility of Sally getting sick shows that you&rsquo;re a caring pet owner, and that you probably keep a close eye on her general health and behavior. I can understand your worrying about an illness going undetected, especially if you&rsquo;re a first-time owner. Most veterinarians are understanding and available to check out Sally anytime you&rsquo;re not sure about her general health. You should always be able to call the vet&rsquo;s office with questions, and if a phone call doesn&rsquo;t allay your concerns, the front desk should schedule a visit with the vet and not put you off. While it&rsquo;s unlikely that a healthy, well-adjusted cat will have an emergency, it pays to be prepared. For example, your cat might be attacked by another pet and suffer injuries. Have some basic first-aid supplies on hand and easy to access just in case: gauze bandages, disinfectant, an emergency blanket. Also, have the number of the nearest 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic posted next to your phone or in your mobile phone&rsquo;s address book, in addition to the regular vet&rsquo;s number.";
	pawsText[117] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My little dog &ldquo;Gellie&rdquo; gets fleas quite often. A while ago in your column a reader suggested washing the dog with Dawn dish detergent and soaking her collar in something. Do you know what that something is? Also, how often should you bathe a dog? &mdash; Frances M., Batavia, N.Y.</p> \
	\<strong>DEAR FRANCES</strong>:<br> \
	Unfortunately I don&rsquo;t have the original column right at hand, but I did a little research for you on home remedies for getting rid of these pesky biters. The website <a href="+stopfleasLink+" target="+stopfleasLinkTarget+">www.stopthefleas.com</a> is the source of the dish detergent remedy: specifically, bathing your pet in lemon-scented Dawn liquid soap. It supposedly both kills and repels fleas. It&rsquo;s important to note, however, that using dish detergents or hand soaps to bathe your pet will dry out their skin. This can lead to other problems, including rashes and sores, increased allergies, and in general, a lot of discomfort for your pet &mdash; as well as making its skin more susceptible to future flea infestation. I would recommend not using this method more than once a month, or even once every two or three months. And I&rsquo;d encourage you to look for pet-friendly, natural flea-repellent soaps, which are available at pet stores. Home remedies are probably not as fast or effective as chemical remedies, and you&rsquo;ll need to employ other methods to discourage fleas, including vacuuming the house at least weekly. Sprinkle a little Borax in front of the doors or plant pennyroyal near your home&rsquo;s entry points. Brush your pet daily, especially if she goes outside at all, to remove dirt or grass that fleas can ride in on and dislodge flea eggs.";
	pawsText[118] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My 6-month-old Lab mix, &ldquo;Charlie,&rdquo; scratches and bites at his fur a lot. This started a couple of weeks ago, and he scratches most of the day. Does he have fleas? I can&rsquo;t see any. - Darlene H., Baton Rouge</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DARLENE</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s entirely possible for your pet to have fleas without you being able to see them or experiencing their itchy bites yourself. If there is one telltale indicator of infestation, however, it&rsquo;s &ldquo;flea dirt&rdquo;: tiny black flecks in his fur or on his skin that look kind of like black pepper. But he may not even have that, at first. Charlie also could be having an allergic reaction to something. He could even have a flea or two and be having an allergic reaction to their bites. You can check for this by looking at the skin of his hind legs and at the base of his tail. Are there small red bumps raised there? If you find evidence of fleas but no other problems (like allergic reaction, infected scratch marks, etc.), treat Charlie for fleas and monitor him more closely than usual for a few weeks to make sure scratching does not resume. In addition, treat your home and entryways to prevent fleas and increase the number of times per week you vacuum (and be sure to change the vacuum bag frequently too). If you can&rsquo;t find fleas or their evidence, or he keeps scratching after treatment, take Charlie to the veterinarian to look for other problems like allergies, skin disease or a hidden illness.";
	pawsText[119] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My house cat &ldquo;Snowball&rdquo; has been having problems urinating in places other than her litter box. She loves rugs, towels, my daughters&rsquo; beds, pillows and even her own bed. The vet suggested getting another litter box. She now has two. She will urinate on something within 1 foot of a litter box. I read in your column that cats that do this could have a urinary&ndash;tract infection or diabetes. Snowball was treated for six weeks for a urinary infection and still continues to urinate outside of her box. I took her back to the vet to be tested again for urinary-tract infection and diabetes. Both tests were negative. The vet thinks she&rsquo;s just mad at us. I&rsquo;m tired of this happening. Any suggestions? &mdash; Michelle S., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MICHELLE</strong>:<br> \
	There&rsquo;s usually a good reason for a cat urinating regularly outside the litter box, and being &ldquo;just mad&rdquo; is probably not one of them. You did the right thing by having her checked and treated for a urinary tract infection, and checked for more serious diseases, so you&rsquo;ve eliminated a physical issue that may have initiated the problem. Now it&rsquo;s time to address the behavioral issue &mdash; which has nothing to do with Snowball resenting you, but more to do with an association she&rsquo;s formed. First, get rid of both litter boxes (yes, the new one too). Thoroughly clean the area where they were located, and then get a new box. Next, monitor Snowball closely. As soon as she starts urinating anywhere other than her box, simply pick her up and place her in the box. Use soothing, encouraging language. She may be associating the box with the pain of her urinary-tract infection, so you need to reintroduce her to it. Remember also to thoroughly clean the areas that Snowball has urinated using an enzyme cleaner developed specifically for pet cleanup. It&rsquo;s available at pet stores. If she&rsquo;s urinated on carpet, you may need to treat the padding underneath as well.";
	pawsText[120] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Can you give me any information on Canine Influenza Virus? &mdash; Jordan C., Kansas City, Mo.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR MICHELLE</strong>:<br> \
	This relatively new virus was identified about six years ago following an outbreak of a mystery illness among dogs at a race track in Jacksonville, Fla. It was determined that a horse virus had been transmitted to the dogs. Since then, Canine Influenza Virus has joined a list of communicable diseases to which dogs, especially those in crowded living conditions like a kennel or shelter, are vulnerable. CIV is sometimes mistaken for kennel cough, as one of its symptoms is coughing that can worsen after activity. However, unlike kennel cough, CIV is often accompanied by a runny nose, sneezing and runny eyes. In more severe cases of CIV, a high fever is present, along with loss of appetite, lethargy or depression, and sometimes difficulty breathing. Any of these symptoms should prompt a visit to the veterinarian to confirm CIV and make sure pneumonia doesn&rsquo;t set in. Because CIV is a virus, antibiotics aren&rsquo;t an effective cure. Treatment includes making your dog more comfortable &mdash; including cough medicine or other medicines to reduce symptoms &mdash; and keeping its immune system strong through a good diet and vitamin supplements. Prevent your pet from exposing other dogs to the virus, and monitor its condition closely in case its health worsens. The illness usually runs its course in four weeks. Fortunately, a vaccine for the virus is available. Ask the vet about immunizing your pet, particularly if you plan to place it in a kennel or doggie daycare. More information and a clinic locator tool are available at <a href="+dogfluLink+" target="+dogfluLink+">www.doginfluenza.com</a>.";
	pawsText[121] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Thank you for printing Dori&rsquo;s view on pet adoption in your column. I have been in the animal rescue business for many years and have 10 &ldquo;unadoptables&rdquo; (now quite senior and living the life of Riley). Dori is so right, and I applaud her for her ability to state her position so clearly. I hope many of your readers got it. I have the results of poor choices &mdash; lucky for me because they are so dear, but they had to go through so much, which is very sad. &mdash; Pam Y., Lewiston, Calif.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR PAM</strong>:<br> \
	Pam, thank you for the update and for taking in the &ldquo;unadoptables&rdquo; &mdash;  pets that, in many cases, have behavioral or health issues that their former owners couldn&rsquo;t deal with.  People who are interested in purchasing or adopting a pet must do their homework before making the leap, especially if they have no prior experience. It&rsquo;s not enough just to read up on the breed of dog or cat you&rsquo;re interested in, their traits and behavior (although this also is a must). You have to take into account the impact on your lifestyle and your bank account. Pet care costs money, so you must be prepared for routine veterinary examinations &mdash; typically annual &mdash; and regular vaccinations, at least one of which, rabies, is required by law in most cities and states. And you must have the ability to pay for unexpected illnesses.  Caring for a pet takes time. A pet becomes part of the family &mdash; so much so that pets who are abandoned often suffer irreversible emotional damage. Are you ready to take your dog out at 6 a.m., potty train him and spend an hour each day teaching or reinforcing basic obedience skills? Can you handle a cat that yowls late at night, or has soiling issues outside the litter box? You may not know how to handle everything that comes up, but you must be prepared before getting a pet to take time out and learn to really care for that pet.";
	pawsText[122] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My Pom/Pekingese mix, &quot;Debbie,&quot; really scratches and bites at her fur a lot, but when I inspect her, there are no fleas that I can see -- nor even the flea &quot;dust&quot; you described in a previous column. I bathe her regularly, but it doesn't seem to help. My husband thinks she scratches just to spite us. Do you have a solution? -- Dottie K., Irving, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR DOTTIE</strong>:<br> \
	Debbie's not scratching to &quot;spite&quot; you; she's scratching because she itches. The cause of her itch doesn't have to be fleas. She may have allergies or dry skin. Scratching and biting at areas that are bothering her can make the problem worse, not better, especially in the case of dry skin (or even a skin disease that's developing, unseen). The first thing I would recommend is to stop bathing her so frequently, at least for a while. When you do bathe her, use a bath soap specifically made for dogs, and ideally for dogs with sensitive skin. The soap should be unscented -- perfumes can cause all sorts of misery for a dog with dry skin. You also should take Debbie to the veterinarian and have her checked out not just for fleas, but any possible allergic reaction, dry skin or skin disease. Foods can be a culprit in skin problems caused by allergies. It's sometimes hard to pinpoint exactly which food is causing Debbie's problem, but your vet can provide information on how to narrow down the possibilities so you can adjust her diet accordingly.";
	pawsText[123] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My German shepherd, &ldquo;Sandy,&rdquo; is a sweet-tempered dog who has a loud bark but is not aggressive at all. She will lie down once a visitor comes in and stop barking without my telling her to. However, every morning she goes over to a hole in our fence and waits until the neighbor&rsquo;s dog is let out to play. Then, she&rsquo;ll growl and bark like mad. The other dog will do the same, rushing up to the hole and snarling at Sandy. I&rsquo;m afraid if they see each other in the street, they&rsquo;ll fight. What can I do? &mdash; Jane T. in Dothan, Ala.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JANE</strong>:<br> \
	Is your neighbor aware of the situation? What&rsquo;s his or her take? If you haven&rsquo;t talked about the dogs&rsquo; behavior with them yet, do so. Don&rsquo;t issue any ultimatums, just say, &ldquo;Have you noticed our dogs growl at each other through the fence? Does it worry you?&rdquo; The easiest short-term solution, after talking to the neighbors, is to fix the hole in the fence. This might stop the territorial barking and growling, although neighbor dogs tend to bark at each other despite fences they can&rsquo;t see through.  If your neighbors agree, arrange a &ldquo;play date&rdquo; to see how your dogs act when they&rsquo;re in the same space together. Both should be on a leash and controlled by their owner. If they show any aggression like snarling or lunging, separate them immediately. A fight could make the aggression worse. Your dog and the neighbors&rsquo; dog may be relegated to barking at each other through a fence that doesn&rsquo;t allow them to see each other, in order to keep the peace.";
	pawsText[124] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Can I trim the hair around my dog&rsquo;s ears? Should I? &mdash; Donny J., Oshkosh, Wis.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JANE</strong>:<br> \
	It depends. You should inspect your dog&rsquo;s ears regularly (daily if time permits; weekly for sure) to see if hair is blocking the ear canal, and that the ear is clean, free of really bad odor and without excess wax. (If you&rsquo;re not sure how to inspect your dog&rsquo;s ears, your veterinarian can walk you through the process.) Some pet experts recommend that the hair growing close to or in the ear canal be trimmed or plucked, but if your dog is healthy and has no ear problems, I see no reason to do this. Quite a few breeds do have frequent problems with their ears, and long hair can worsen the issue. If your dog has excessive hair at the entrance to the ear canal that&rsquo;s worsening wax buildup, you can remove this on an as-needed basis. Holding your dog securely (small dogs on your lap, big dogs on a stable surface with your arm around their neck), gently fold back your dog&rsquo;s ear. Inspect and clean the ear using a cleaning solution available at the pet store (or plain water in a pinch) and cotton balls.  Important: Do not stick anything &mdash; fingers, Q-tips, trimmers, etc. &mdash; into the ear canal past where you can see it! If hair near the opening of the ear canal is excessive and impacting airflow into the ear, carefully trim away with blunt-tipped scissors or pluck a bit at a time with tweezers or your fingers. Dogs are generally not thrilled with ear cleaning or trimming, anymore than they&rsquo;re happy with tooth brushing or baths. If you&rsquo;re unable to safely inspect and clean your dog&rsquo;s ears (you don&rsquo;t want him thrashing around with trimmers in use), contact your veterinarian to schedule an exam.";
	pawsText[125] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I take my dog to the local animal hospital for nail trimming, as my little &ldquo;Freda&rdquo; is just too feisty for me to do it myself. But lately, I noticed the nurses were cutting Freda&rsquo;s nails into the quick and making them bleed. My friend also experienced the same problems there with her dog, and she said that one of the nurses told her that cutting them so far back that they bled was the only way to control and keep the dog&rsquo;s nails from being so wild. Is this true? &mdash; Curious in Kingston Springs</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CURIOUS</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s true, but cutting into the quick (the blood vessel extending through the center of a dog&rsquo;s nail) can be painful for the dog and make regular nail trimming not just an uncomfortable experience, but a traumatic one. When the trimmer cuts into the quick, the blood vessel &mdash; providing it closes quickly and heals normally &mdash; will retract slightly over a one- to three-week period. If the owner brings the dog back for a nail trimming within that three weeks, the trimmer can cut the nails even shorter the next time. Neatly trimmed nails are essential to a dog&rsquo;s health, but you can figure out some of the problems with cutting into the quick each time. In addition to the pain and trauma, infection is a real possibility, even in a veterinary clinic. Sometimes though, with really long, ragged or even ingrown nails, more drastic trimming has to take place to prevent bigger problems. How can a dog owner reduce the frequency with which cutting into the quick occurs? Regular nail trimming, every three to four weeks, is a must. If you want to try and encourage the quick to recede without cutting into it, file your dog&rsquo;s nails daily until the nail is safely cut back to a healthy length. Then, just make sure those trimmings happen regularly. If you&rsquo;re concerned about the way the animal-hospital personnel are handling the procedure, speak with the veterinarian. And, if you&rsquo;re still not satisfied, you can take your business elsewhere.";
	pawsText[126] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a 4-year-old miniature Schnauzer named &ldquo;Yonnie&rdquo; who has little bumps like acne running up and down her spine. I was told they might be comedones, but was given no advice as to what to do. Another Mini owner I know told me the bumps are caused by improper grooming &mdash; trimming from tail to head instead of head to tail. Can you offer any advice? &mdash; Kent D., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CURIOUS</strong>:<br> \
	Comedones are basically little blackheads (just like the blackheads we humans get on our skin that can become pimples) that are common enough in miniature Schnauzers to sometimes be called &ldquo;Schnauzer bumps.&rdquo; The cause isn&rsquo;t exactly known, but dogs with sensitive skin or allergies can develop these bumps, most often found on the back. If the bumps are not infected, direct treatment such as a topical medication is not necessary. But if Yonnie is bothered by them and scratches frequently, you might want to look into ways to reduce discomfort and itching and prevent the bumps from worsening. Regular grooming is very helpful in preventing bumps. I&rsquo;m not sure that the direction in which the groomer trims the dog&rsquo;s hair makes a difference. Bathing, not more than every two weeks to prevent dry skin, can help prevent more bumps from occurring. A diet low in allergens (like grain fillers present in many dog foods) and high in skin-friendly vitamins can be effective as well. If the bumps appear to be infected &mdash; larger than before, red, filled with pus &mdash; take Yonnie to the veterinarian for treatment. Unfortunately, bumps that already exist on a dog&rsquo;s skin may never go away. Preventing more from appearing is the best course of action.";
	pawsText[127] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	What is the best way to get my 6-month-old dog, &ldquo;Kit,&rdquo; to quit nuisance barking, and does Bark Off really work? &mdash; Phillip M., via email</p> \
	<strong>DEAR PHILLIP</strong>:<br> \
	The best way to address nuisance barking is through daily, attentive training methods. Whether you spring for an ultrasonic &ldquo;anti-barking&rdquo; device or something else, the key to reducing or stopping Kit&rsquo;s barking is spending time with him, teaching him not to bark incessantly.  The most common training method to stop unwanted barking is to distract the dog with a noise, a hiss or a sharp &ldquo;no!&rdquo; Or, in the case of the device mentioned, an &ldquo;ultrasonic&rdquo; noise that does the same thing. No matter how much money you spend or don&rsquo;t spend, that&rsquo;s really the key technique. But there&rsquo;s more to it. When I say &ldquo;distract,&rdquo; that doesn&rsquo;t mean just hissing, shaking a can of pennies or pressing an ultrasonic control button from your cozy spot on the couch. I mean, distract immediately, then get up and go to Kit and have him sit and stay for a minute. When he does that, give him lots of praise. Then &mdash; and this may sound revolutionary &mdash; spend more time with him, training or playing. Just pressing a button and ignoring your dog won&rsquo;t solve the problem. The button you should press when Kit&rsquo;s barking is the pause button on your DVR. Kit, at 6 months, is going through a bit of a change, heading into puppy puberty. He&rsquo;s energetic and pushing the envelope. So be firm and consistent with his obedience training, play with him to work off that energy, and set a daily schedule for him &mdash; feeding, walks, training, play, sleep &mdash; and stick to it. It will take a few weeks to reduce his barking this way, but it&rsquo;s worth it.";
	pawsText[128] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have the hardest time getting a good photo of my Australian shepherd, &ldquo;Session.&rdquo; It&rsquo;s not just that he&rsquo;s hyper (Aussies just are!), it&rsquo;s that the photos generally turn out awful. Do you have any tips for photographing pets? &mdash; Harriet T., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR HARRIET</strong>:<br> \
	I also have a hard time getting just the right photo of my pets, so I feel your pain. But there are a few basic techniques for photographing animals that you can practice. Most of these are courtesy of Kodak, which still maintains picture kiosks where you can touch up digital photos if they don&rsquo;t come out perfect.<br> \
	<br> \
	&bull; For active pets like Session, use a fast shutter speed along with a high ISO setting. If you&rsquo;re using a small point-and-shoot camera you should still be able to adjust these; check your camera&rsquo;s manual.<br> \
	&bull; To avoid those glowing or red eyes, don&rsquo;t use the flash. An ISO setting above 400 is helpful in low-light situations. You also can compensate by using lots of natural light.<br> \
	&bull; Use a tripod to steady the camera, particularly in low light; this will reduce blurriness.<br> \
	&bull; Photograph your pet from its level, rather than standing above. Try shooting at different angles to see the effect.<br> \
	&bull; Keep the background simple, whether at home or at the park. <br> \
	&bull; Want a picture of Session running? Keep him in the center of the viewfinder and pan along with him as he runs. Snap the picture when he&rsquo;s at an angle to you, not right in front.<br> \
	&bull; In a still portrait, focus on your pet&rsquo;s eyes.<br> \
	&bull; Posing with your dog? The camera needs to focus on both of your faces along the same plane, so place your face close to Session&rsquo;s, or hold him in a big hug.<br> \
	&bull; Finally, be patient with your pet. Let him get used to the camera, and don&rsquo;t hold him in one place for too long. There&rsquo;s always tomorrow for pictures, too.";
	pawsText[129] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog has such terrible bad breath. How can I improve this? &mdash; Beth in Rhode Island</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BETH</strong>:<br> \
	Take your dog to the veterinarian to be checked out, especially if the bad breath just started or just got worse in recent days or weeks. Sometimes bad breath is just a hygiene issue, but it also can signal an underlying illness that might not have any other symptoms. If your dog is diagnosed with an illness, follow your vet&rsquo;s instructions on care. Give it prescribed medication if needed and feed any diet that&rsquo;s recommended. Provided your dog checks out health-wise, your vet may recommend that it get a professional cleaning to remove plaque and improve overall dental health. In between cleanings, you should brush your dog&rsquo;s teeth regularly using a brush and toothpaste specifically designed for dogs. You can purchase these from the vet or at any pet supply store. Diet also may play a role in your dog&rsquo;s breath. Try different types of dog food or add variety to its diet with fresh foods and homemade treats a few times a week. Keep in mind that dogs can&rsquo;t eat all the same foods that we humans do &mdash; like chocolate and onions, which are poison to them &mdash; so look for dog recipe books at your local bookstore or online for pet-safe ingredients. Finally, chewing is important to a dog&rsquo;s oral health. Make sure that plenty of chew toys are available, which strengthen the jaw and teeth and also, in some cases, help to keep teeth clean.";
	pawsText[130] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I recently read reports of some shelters that rescue pets having to suspend new admissions because they can&rsquo;t afford to take any more. Is there any way to help them? I don&rsquo;t have much money. &mdash; Agnes in Indianapolis</p> \
	<strong>DEAR AGNES</strong>:<br> \
	The number of rescued and abandoned pets filling up shelters seems to be climbing all the time. Of course, these tough economic times don&rsquo;t help matters, as many pet owners struggle to keep their homes. Even in better times, most shelters need help. Monetary donations can make a big impact, but there are other ways to help if your spare cash is limited. If you have extra time during the week, consider volunteering at a local shelter. Most area shelters have websites with information on volunteering, positions they need volunteers for, whether they offer any training, and how many days a week that position requires. Volunteering for even a couple of hours a week can save shelters money on staffing costs and free up full-time staff for more complex tasks like health care.  Another way to help is to donate food or pet-related items. Again, call the shelter or check its website to see what is needed. If money to purchase food is tight, consider rallying your friends or neighbors to collect items that the shelter needs, and make a group donation. Local shelters are providing a valuable service by caring for animals in transition &mdash; hopefully, a transition to a new family. Even a small contribution can help improve conditions for shelter animals and keep shelter services running.";
	pawsText[131] = "<p>February is Responsible Pet Owners&rsquo; Month. It&rsquo;s an interesting designation, really, as I&rsquo;m not entirely clear as to whether we&rsquo;re supposed to be celebrating Responsible Pet Owners, or making pet owners feel guilty about not being as responsible as they should be.</p> \
	<p>On one hand, I&rsquo;m getting plenty of notices to remind my readers to take their pets in for check-ups (if they haven&rsquo;t done so already), get their vaccinations up to date and basically work harder at keeping pets healthy and happy. On the other hand, I&rsquo;m getting plenty of press releases about scads (that&rsquo;s right, scads) of products that apparently are absolute must-haves in order to be a truly responsible pet owner.</p> \
	<p>To me, it&rsquo;s all a bit weird. Isn&rsquo;t responsible pet ownership a year-round activity? Has it suddenly become OK to just condense our responsibility to our pets into the shortest month of the year? Is responsible pet ownership really being promoted, or is this just another way for marketers to convince pet owners that they have to have the latest, most expensive tooth-brushing devices to keep their dogs&rsquo; teeth from just falling out?</p> \
	<p>Not that there aren&rsquo;t good products being touted. Safety harnesses to keep your pet in place while traveling in the car &mdash; good idea. Better, safer chew toys for dogs &mdash; another good idea.</p> \
	What I&rsquo;m getting at is this: Designating a month for responsible pet ownership is a well-intentioned move, but truly responsible pet owners consider it a year-round occupation. Why not celebrate responsible pet owners for who they truly are &mdash; compassionate people who see their pets as part of the family and make sure they get the care and love they deserve, all the time?";
	pawsText[132] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have to admit, I have not taken my two cats to the veterinarian as often as I should. Last year, I skipped their annual shots and just kept them inside, and they didn&rsquo;t get annual physicals. The visits just cost too much. Fortunately, neither of them got sick. I&rsquo;m on a fixed income, so I need to plan every expense. Please don&rsquo;t judge me too harshly &mdash; I love my cats! &mdash; Caring Mama in Wheeling, W.Va.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR CARING MAMA</strong>:<br> \
	It might surprise you to know that many of my readers share your dilemma. They&rsquo;re worried about the cost of health care for their pets &mdash; even routine shots and checkups &mdash; and they fret about what to do if their pet gets sick or injured. And as pet owners&rsquo; incomes have declined in recent years, so have the number of visits.<br> \
	In fact, Bayer Animal Health recently compiled a Veterinary Care Usage Study that found some interesting results:<br> \
	&bull; 53 percent of pet owners think costs are usually much higher than expected.<br> \
	&bull; 63 percent of dog owners and 68 percent of cat owners question the need for regular veterinary care.<br> \
	&bull; 33 percent of dog owners and 41 percent of cat owners would not take their pet to the vet if vaccines were not needed.<br> \
	&bull; One-third of cats have not been to the veterinarian in the past year.<br> \
	&bull; 56 percent of veterinarians said they were getting fewer visits from pet owners in 2009 and 2010.</p> \
	It all adds up to riskier times for pets. So, what can a financially strapped pet owner do? Start by talking to your vet about financial difficulties &mdash; many will try to work out a pricing structure that fits your ability to pay. Look for low-cost pet health and vaccination clinics (check www.PawsCorner.com for regular updates on 2011 rabies clinics around the United States). Check with senior and low-income assistance centers in your city or town for pet care assistance programs.";
	pawsText[133] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have a 5-month-old Golden Retriever. I was wondering if you could give me any tips regarding &ldquo;Saucy&rdquo; biting and jumping up on people. How can I stop it? &mdash; Crystal, Pensacola, Fla.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CRYSTAL</strong>:<br> \
	Jumping up and nonaggressive biting (or mouthing) are two of the most common undesirable behaviors among dogs. And because they&rsquo;re fairly instinctive actions, if you&rsquo;re not consistent with the way you deal with Saucy&rsquo;s behavior, the problems can continue indefinitely. Fortunately, the solution to jumping and biting lies in basic obedience training, particularly in the sit-stay commands. Saucy should get obedience training at least once daily in addition to her twice-daily walks. (By the way, regular walks will dampen some of that excitability.) To reduce jumping, note where and when Saucy tends to jump up the most. Is it at the door, greeting visitors? Train her in sit-stay next to the entrance, preferably in the same spot each time. When she responds well to &ldquo;sit&rdquo; and &ldquo;stay,&rdquo; increase the difficulty by having another person ring the doorbell and come in. Command her to sit and stay if she stands, lunges at the door or does anything other than sit in the designated spot.  Mouthing, like jumping, is an absolute no-no, and should be treated as such. As Saucy&rsquo;s owner, each time she tries her biting routine, firmly but calmly say &ldquo;no&rdquo; and gently move her muzzle away. Then command her to sit and stay; when she obeys, give her a chew toy.  Now, puppies and even adult dogs tend to lapse a bit with these two behaviors, especially when company is over. If you haven&rsquo;t got time for a training session, use one of my favorite quick-correction methods: turn your back. For a playful dog, nothing is more disconcerting than someone indicating &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t want to play with you.&rdquo; Use that moment of confusion to turn back around and command sit-stay. If Saucy doesn&rsquo;t follow instructions or is just too excited and distracted by guests, place her in a quiet room with her bedding and chew toys until your guests have left.";
	pawsText[134] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have an 8-year-old Schnauzer, &ldquo;Fixer,&rdquo; who has recently started getting into things during the night, after I&rsquo;m in bed. He has torn open bags, taken things from my purse and gotten into my grandkids&rsquo; arts and crafts box. Now I have to be careful not to leave anything around. We have not changed the way we are doing things. Could this be his age? &mdash; Phyllis H., Rochester, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR PHYLLIS</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;d be remiss if I didn&rsquo;t recommend you take him to the veterinarian first thing, just to make sure there is no underlying health issue causing his sudden behavioral change. If everything checks out, tackle the problem from two angles. First, even though you haven&rsquo;t changed his daily schedule, something subtle may have changed in the house or yard. Pay attention to nighttime happenings. Is there some new noise outside? Did something happen while you were asleep, perhaps, that may have caused Fixer to become anxious? Next, make some changes in his day and night routine that will help him feel more secure when you&rsquo;re asleep. Extend his evening walk a bit and add some basic obedience training and play time to the evening schedule. When it&rsquo;s your bedtime, lead Fixer over to his bedding and have him lie down and stay. Check back in five minutes, then in 30; if he&rsquo;s still in his bed, praise him and give him a little treat. If he&rsquo;s not in his bed, lead him back and repeat. Place a favorite chew toy next to him. At first, Fixer will hop right back out once he thinks you&rsquo;re asleep and proceed with his nightly rummaging. Be patient. It will take some time for him to associate this routine with the idea that you want him to stay there at night. Meantime, keep placing people things out of reach. Put doggie toys in their place.";
	pawsText[135] = "<p style="+textIndent+">This week Paws Corner is going to go big &mdash; really big &mdash; and talk a bit about cats that are a little too large to keep as house pets: namely, cats like pumas, wildcats, cougars, tigers, leopards, you name it. Too often, they&rsquo;re purchased as pets or as show animals only to be neglected or worse when things don&rsquo;t go so well for their owners. That&rsquo;s why I&rsquo;m calling attention to a standout organization, Big Cat Rescue.</p> \
	<p style="+textIndent+">This Florida-based organization made it a mission almost 20 years ago to rescue big cats and care for them. The story of how it began is pretty incredible &mdash; founders Carole and Don Baskin, after visiting a bobcat breeder and finding out that most of his lynxes and bobcats were sold for their fur, purchased all 56 of the breeder&rsquo;s cats and took them from Minnesota to Florida rather than leave them to be slaughtered. Their transition from casual pet owners who thought it would be cool to own a bobcat to committed advocates for stopping exploitation of big cats is a tale in itself.</p> \
	<p style="+textIndent+">If you&rsquo;re interested in big cats for any reason, visit their website at <a href="+catRescueLink+" target="+catRescueTarget+">www.bigcatrescue.org</a>. The site is chock full of information about these cats, why they don&rsquo;t make good pets and ways that you can help the sanctuary continue its work.</p> \
	<p style="+textIndent+">P.S. If you&rsquo;re a frequent visitor to <a href="+pawsCornerLink+" target="+pawsCornerTarget+">www.pawscorner.com</a>, you probably know that Purina is looking for a &ldquo;Cat Chow correspondent&rdquo; to travel the country on behalf of Purina, attend cat events and connect with fellow cat owners. Applications will be accepted through March 28 at <a href="+catChowLink+" target="+catChowTarget+">catchow.com</a>.</p>";
	pawsText[136] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	You recently advised an owner whose cat ran and hid when company arrived not to worry unless it acted &ldquo;very strange, such as hissing at familiar people, hiding for hours or not eating.&rdquo; Well, our 6-year-old cat, &ldquo;Clyde,&rdquo; hides often when strangers arrive, sometimes for hours. But the weirdest thing is that he hisses and glares at our 3-year-old grandson, and he has done this since Day One. Our grandson is showing signs of being afraid of him and tries to stay as far away as possible. Can anything be done to help this relationship? Our grandson has a cat of his own that he gets along great with. Do you think Clyde was abused as a young kitten? We adopted him from a shelter. &mdash; Susan J., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR SUSAN</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s difficult to tell what a pet&rsquo;s past life was like when adopting from a shelter. Clyde may or may not have been abused as a young kitten, or he simply may not have been around humans much at all, which also can cause socialization problems. My late great buddy Dodge was born to a barn cat and adopted at about 6 months of age. He was extremely skittish around humans, and it was several months before I could even pet him. While he eventually became a near-typical housecat, he remained very selective about who could approach him, and he always hid when new humans showed up. Sudden changes in his environment tended to be very stressful for Dodge, along with unpredictable people (and 3-year-olds can be quite unpredictable!). My advice is to keep Clyde and your grandson separated for now, until your grandson has grown a bit. There&rsquo;s a chance they will never be friends, but it&rsquo;s something that you can&rsquo;t force on Clyde or your grandson. Meantime, continue to provide a supportive, encouraging environment for your cat.";
	pawsText[137] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I got a dog, &ldquo;Jess,&rdquo; for my kids after they begged me for months. It was on the condition that they take care of her, take her for walks, train her, etc. But I am always the one taking her for walks, trying to train her, making sure she gets fed. How can I make these kids be responsible for their pet? &mdash; Tammy G., Tallahassee, Fla.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR TAMMY</strong>:<br> \
	It sounds like you&rsquo;re going to have to train the kids alongside the dog. I&rsquo;m sure you&rsquo;ve reminded them that they promised to be responsible for Jess, with no results. I&rsquo;m no parenting expert, but it&rsquo;s probably time to be a little sterner with them. What&rsquo;s your normal disciplinary style for the kids when they break the rules? Do you send them to their rooms? Ground them? Or take away something they value for a period of time, like access to the video-game console? Implement the same discipline for failure to take care of Jess. Do you maintain a chore chart for the kids? Add dog walks, training, feeding and other tasks to the chart, with the same reward/punishment system as for the other chores.  To help your kids get into the habit of caring for Jess regularly, join them for the first week or two as they complete their assigned task &mdash; not lecturing, just helping. Go with them on walks with Jess, but make sure they hold the leash. Guide them when they&rsquo;re teaching Jess basic commands, but have them do the training. Get them into the habit of taking care of their dog.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	The Canton Paw Park in Canton, Ga., featured in a column last year on dog parks, is preparing for its grand opening on April 16. We want to thank Boy Scout Troop No. 4900, which handmade 10 bag holder stations. The project helped the scouts earn their carpentry badges. &mdash; Alesa</p> \
	<strong>DEAR TAMMY</strong>:<br> \
	Great job, Scouts! Readers, you can learn more about Troop 4900&rsquo;s project and the Canton Paw Park at <a href="+pawsCornerLink+" target="+pawsCornerTarget+">www.pawscorner.com</a>.";
	pawsText[138] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have an 11-year-old black cat, &ldquo;Andie,&rdquo; who uses her litter box and then right afterward goes over to her water bowl and puts her paws into it. I scold her when she does it, but it doesn&rsquo;t help. I have to change her water several times a day. How can I get her to stop doing this? &mdash; Betty, via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BETTY</strong>:<br> \
	Scolding won&rsquo;t help, unfortunately, because Andie either finds this act to be pleasurable or a relief from discomfort.  First, there are a few breeds of cat that actually like (or at least tolerate) being around and in water &mdash; including swimming. Andie might have this trait, or she might not. She may just like doing it and has developed a habit of standing in the water bowl immediately after litter box use. If this is the case, you can try placing a tray or bowl of water near the litter box and guide Andie over to that after her toilet, then empty the water until the next time. Or, as soon as Andie gets into her drinking bowl, gently lift her out &mdash; no scolding &mdash; and take the bowl away for a while. From there on, pick up Andie just before she gets into the bowl, put her down gently, and feed her a treat. Do this enough times and she just may &ldquo;get it.&rdquo; Another issue that&rsquo;s just as likely is that Andie&rsquo;s paws are uncomfortable after litter box use. Check her paws, especially between the pads; are there nicks or irritated areas? Is litter embedded between the pads? Whether you see any problems or not, try a couple of different litter brands to see if it makes a difference. Also, talk to Andie&rsquo;s vet about her behavior.";
	pawsText[139] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I wanted to write to you about a flea remedy that works for us. My kids and I live in a rural area, and between our two houses have seven dogs and one calico cat. We used to have a very bad flea and tick problem until our local vet recommended using a product called Comfortis. This is a once-a-month tablet &mdash; the dosage is based on the weight of the dog &mdash; that costs much less than Frontline or similar flea and tick treatments. Since starting Comfortis our dogs have been flea- and tick-free. Before we found this product, we would bathe our dogs and cats in a large tub of soapy water with 1/4 cup of Pine-Sol added. That also would kill fleas and ticks. &mdash; Louise C., Rison, Ark.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR LOUISE</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks for the tip on the new flea and tick medication! Readers should consult their veterinarian about this medicine to make sure it&rsquo;s right for their dog, as like any drug taken internally or topically it may interact with other medications a dog may be taking.  However, I&rsquo;m not wild about the Pine-Sol bath tip. That&rsquo;s a very strong cleaning solution that will dry a pet&rsquo;s skin, which causes irritation, and also removes natural oils on the skin that help repel fleas. The only &ldquo;household&rdquo; soap I&rsquo;d recommend would be Skin-So-Soft, and even that just once a month. Other than that, use a bath product formulated specifically for a dog or cat. To further reduce a pet&rsquo;s chances of acquiring fleas and ticks, vacuum carpets at least twice weekly indoors and wash curtains and linens frequently. Outside, mow the lawn weekly so it&rsquo;s not as easy for pests to jump or drop onto a pet&rsquo;s fur.";
	pawsText[140] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My cat, &ldquo;Trina,&rdquo; is an indoor cat &mdash; her paws never touch the outside ground. So why does she need so many different shots each year? The feline leukemia I can understand, but why should she get a rabies shot and so on when she&rsquo;s never exposed to other creatures? The shots are so costly that we are refraining from taking her to get them. &mdash; Ethel H., via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR LOUISE</strong>:<br> \
	I can understand your reluctance to keep getting Trina shots every year when she is at low risk of catching the diseases the shots prevent. And the shot package is costly &mdash; even many &ldquo;low cost&rdquo; shot clinics run upward of $45 to $65 for a complete set of vaccinations. However, state health boards have decided they can&rsquo;t take the chance of unvaccinated cats getting out among other cats (and pets do escape, even if Trina is a good cat) and catching and then spreading certain diseases. There&rsquo;s also the admittedly low risk of another pet or wild animal entering Trina&rsquo;s living space and biting or otherwise exposing her to a disease. So, although I know it&rsquo;s expensive and uncomfortable, for Trina&rsquo;s sake, she needs to be vaccinated regularly. In recent years, a growing number of states have been reducing the frequency of rabies shots &mdash; from every year to once every three years. Certain other shots still are required annually, but it&rsquo;s one less item on your bill. Please keep Trina&rsquo;s vaccinations up to date. You&rsquo;ll have the peace of mind of knowing she&rsquo;s safe just in case.</p> \
	<strong>Note</strong>: To help out financially strapped pet owners, I&rsquo;ve been listing low-cost vaccination clinics by state on my website, <a href="+pawsCornerLink+" target="+pawsCornerTarget+">www.pawscorner.com</a>. Check to see if a clinic is taking place in your area. If you know of an upcoming clinic that&rsquo;s not listed, email me at <a href="+pawsEmail+">ask@pawscorner.com</a>, and I&rsquo;ll add the date.";
	pawsText[141] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We&rsquo;re visiting a breeder soon who is offering a new litter of puppies for sale. She says we should visit a few times to find the right puppy for our family. How do we choose the best of the litter? &mdash; Kay S., Bowden, Ala.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR KAY</strong>:<br> \
	I don&rsquo;t think there&rsquo;s always a &ldquo;best&rdquo; puppy in a litter. However, there is the right &ldquo;fit&rdquo; for your family. For example, outgoing pups may do best with a family, while shy dogs work better with individuals. The breeder is offering to let you visit several times to find the best fit, which is a great selection method (and one mark of a good breeder). Often, such visits are spaced over several weeks, from a couple weeks after the puppies&rsquo; birth to the time they are ready to leave (eight or more weeks). Because you will be spending quite a bit of money on a new dog, be observant during visits and ask questions. Make sure the puppies&rsquo; living area is clean and that they all look healthy, happy and relaxed. Hold and play with puppies that interest you and watch their behavior around your children. As the weeks pass, observe their growth and the maturation of motor skills and awareness. The breeder will be observing you during this time as well. After all, she doesn&rsquo;t want to send well-bred puppies to owners who won&rsquo;t care for them. It&rsquo;s not unusual for professional breeders to refuse to sell a puppy to someone they have doubts about. Remember, the deal isn&rsquo;t done until both sides agree that the dog you pick is the best fit for you, and the papers are signed.";
	pawsText[142] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	 About a year ago, we adopted an 18-month-old mutt. &ldquo;Buddy&rdquo; is a great dog, but he has one continuing problem: He urinates and defecates in the living room in the middle of the night. We don&rsquo;t feed or water him after about 7 p.m., and I take him out nightly at 10. He is otherwise very well housebroken. The only thing that has worked so far is putting him in his crate overnight, but my husband says it&rsquo;s cruel. Is there any other solution? &mdash; Janice in Lewiston, Calif.</p> \
	 <p><strong>DEAR KAY</strong>:<br> \
	 Actually, crating is one of the first methods to try in this case, and it can be successful in stopping the problem (though not necessarily the behavior, as Buddy has demonstrated). But some people do feel that crating is cruel, so I understand your husband&rsquo;s feelings about it. Have you mentioned this problem to Buddy&rsquo;s vet and had him examined for any physical problem? It&rsquo;s always good to make sure he&rsquo;s healthy. Also talk to the vet about Buddy being adopted. He may have picked up a bad habit at his former home, or he might still be experiencing some stress from leaving one home and then coming to another one. If the problem is behavioral, continue housebreaking with Buddy. A key part of stopping the overnight elimination is to not allow him into areas of the house in which he has already left his &ldquo;mark,&rdquo; so to speak. If this is not possible, you may have to continue with the crating, or you may want to consult a professional trainer for more in-depth ideas on solving this dilemma.";
	pawsText[143] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	 I have a 2-year-old cat, &ldquo;Annie,&rdquo; who loves to chew on anything plastic &mdash; particularly my wife&rsquo;s oxygen hose. How can I stop her from doing this? It gets costly. &mdash; Dave F., via email</p> \
	 <strong>DEAR DAVE</strong>:<br> \
	 It&rsquo;s not just costly in terms of replacing medical equipment, there&rsquo;s also the risk of Annie having to endure a costly surgery to remove bits of plastic lodged in her digestive tract. However, it can be tough to break a cat of certain habits, and many cats love to gnaw at certain textures and shapes. If possible, you or your wife should come up with ways to move the oxygen hose (or hoses) out of Annie&rsquo;s reach, either by attaching to the chair with a strip or two of medical tape or, if carrying oxygen around, by looping the excess length of hose around the top of the tank or over one&rsquo;s shoulder. Another method to consider is spraying the exposed length of hose with a cat repellent. Several types are available at pet stores and are used to deter cats from clawing or gnawing things like furniture or other fascinating protuberances.  In either case, constant vigilance is still required, as Annie will continue to try to bite the hose if she can get close enough (despite the presence of any stinky spray). When she makes a move toward the hose, distract her with a toy or by calling her. Or, by gently picking her up and placing her in another part of the room, ideally facing a favorite toy or scratching post on which she can take out her energy.";
	pawsText[144] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	 I was wondering how to choose the right day-care center for my dog, &ldquo;Chet,&rdquo; a medium-size Collie mix. Price is a consideration, though it seems that all these day cares are pretty expensive. I&rsquo;d like to find a place to board him for two weeks while my family goes on vacation. &mdash; Barbara C., Atlanta</p> \
	 <p><strong>DEAR BARBARA</strong>:<br> \
	 It&rsquo;s clear that you&rsquo;re already thinking through some of the requirements a day care or boarding center will need to meet before placing Chet there. You&rsquo;re looking for longer-term care that includes overnight care, but which provides an active environment for an energetic dog.</p> \
	 <p>Here are a few questions to ask each prospective care provider:<br> \
	 - How long has the facility been open? How much experience do the owners have in boarding dogs?<br> \
	 - Are certified dog trainers on staff? How much training do other staffers have?<br> \
	 - Will a certified trainer be on duty at night?<br> \
	 - Talk with one of the trainers; ask specific questions about how training is handled.<br> \
	 - Can you drop in and tour the facility at any time during normal business hours?<br> \
	 - Ask for a look at the actual living area for boarding dogs to make sure Chet will be provided for adequately.<br> \
	 - How does the facility screen dogs for health or behavior problems? How does it handle behavioral issues and fights?</p> \
	 These are just a few of the questions you should ask when visiting prospective day-care centers, in addition to the usual questions about cost, day-care rules and so on. If you don&rsquo;t have a good feeling about a facility, move on.";
	pawsText[145] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	 My 10-year-old son Randy really wants a dog as a pet. He&rsquo;s been very responsible with smaller pets, caring for two goldfish and a small turtle. However, I suffer from asthma and have allergic symptoms around furry animals like dogs and cats. I don&rsquo;t know that it&rsquo;s possible to keep a dog. Do you have any advice? &mdash; Dorothy K., via email</p> \
	 <p><strong>DEAR BARBARA</strong>:<br> \
	 Allergies to pet dander (the fine undercoat most dogs and cats have beneath their fur) can range from annoying to life-threatening, so you&rsquo;re right to be concerned about owning a dog. If you&rsquo;re interested in the possibility of being able to keep a dog, study up on different breeds first. There are a few breeds of dog that have much less of an undercoat and generate less dander, including many types of terriers and the Irish Water Spaniel. Next, find out if keeping a dog is possible by borrowing a friend&rsquo;s dog for a few days &mdash; whether keeping the dog at your house or having your friend bring the dog over for several &ldquo;play dates&rdquo; that last a few hours. If you decide that, yes, Randy can have a dog, make some changes around the house to reduce the amount of allergens (dander, dust, pollen, etc.) that collect. Having smooth wood or tile floors that can be quickly dust-mopped daily helps. Choosing leather or vinyl-upholstered furniture rather than cloth will deter allergens from collecting on them. Randy will need to brush his pet daily to further reduce dander, and he should do that outside. Should your pet trial not work out &mdash; your allergies just become too severe in too short a time &mdash; work out an option for Randy to continue caring for or playing with a neighbor or friend&rsquo;s dog on a regular basis, over at their house.";
	pawsText[146] = "<p>A recent article in a British newspaper suggested that pet owners stop being called &ldquo;owners&rdquo; and start being called &ldquo;parents.&rdquo; Why? Because pets are considered so much a part of the family that they shouldn&rsquo;t be considered property, the article suggested.</p> \
	<p>The trend toward treating a pet like ... well, practically another child ... isn&rsquo;t new, but it certainly is growing. According to Hartz Mountain Corp.&rsquo;s recently released Hartz Trend Report, 47 percent of pet owners surveyed said their pet is like a child to them. Another 42 percent said their pet is comparable to a good friend.</p> \
	<p>There seem to be some real benefits to animals as this trend grows. Most prospective owners surveyed consider &ldquo;personality&rdquo; to be more important than a pet&rsquo;s pedigree. And a growing number have or are considering adopting their pet from a rescue society &mdash; 60 percent said so in the survey.</p> \
	<p>These results don&rsquo;t necessarily mean that your local mall soon will be filled with &ldquo;mommies&rdquo; pushing their beloved Lab or Terrier around in a stroller (most self-respecting medium- to large-sized dogs wouldn&rsquo;t take that treatment anyway). The people surveyed considered traits like loyalty and obedience to be important qualities.</p> \
	So, what do you think? Is your dog or cat a part of the family, or something even more important &mdash; almost another child? Tell me your experience or opinion on the matter by emailing me at <a href="+pawsEmail+">ask@pawscorner.com</a>. Or, check out the informal poll on my website at <a href="+pawsCornerLink+" target="+pawsCornerTarget+">www.pawscorner.com</a>.";
	pawsText[147] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m replying to Dave, the reader whose cat chews on his wife&rsquo;s oxygen hose. This may sound weird, but he should consider having his cat checked for diabetes. Our cat, &ldquo;Tuffy,&rdquo; started chewing on our clear plastic shower curtain. We waited a bit too long to have him checked out, and he was in dire condition by the time the veterinarian saw him. It was my wife who read something in a cat magazine and suggested that the vet test Tuffy for diabetes. Sure enough, he had it. And while our cat&rsquo;s prognosis was initially not good &mdash; the vet said he might have three months to live &mdash; thanks to regular insulin injections and care, Tuffy lived another four and a half years.&nbsp; So Dave, keep the faith, and have your cat checked for diabetes. &mdash; Tom W., via email</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR TOM</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks so much for calling attention to this possible health condition! Chewing on clear plastic as a signal for possible diabetes is not something I have heard of before, but I&rsquo;m very glad your wife made that connection. Readers, keep in mind that many, even most, cats chew on weird things. Plastic shopping bags and crumpled paper are especially fascinating, and it&rsquo;s not unusual to see cats gnawing at them. Of course, you should take efforts to stop them from ingesting such items. This type of gnawing does not necessarily signal a health problem, but if you&rsquo;re unsure, take your pet to the veterinarian to ease your suspicions. Other signs of feline diabetes include a voracious appetite and/or drinking large quantities of water, as well as frequent urination or urinating a much larger amount than usual. Weakness in the cat&rsquo;s back legs is another serious symptom.";
	pawsText[148] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	There are dogs that do not cause allergies because they have hair, not fur. My stepmother has one, and no one has a reaction to it. Here&rsquo;s a list of potentially hypoallergenic dog breeds:<br> \
	- Basenji  <br> \
	- Bedlington Terrier <br> \
	- Bichon Frise <br> \
	- Border Terrier <br> \
	- Chinese Crested</p> \
	<p>Hope this helps! &mdash; Brooke S., Barre, Vt.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR BROOKE</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks so much! This is good list to start from and represents a variety of different breeds. For example, the Chinese Crested is considered a toy dog, very small-framed like a Chihuahua, but with either a soft, straight double coat of hair or no hair at all, depending on the breed. Meanwhile, the Bedlington Terrier is small to medium-sized with the classic curly Terrier coat. When kept groomed, this good-natured breed is less likely to set off allergies.  Grooming, even of supposedly hypoallergenic breeds, is a key to preventing allergic reaction. If you have allergies and are considering getting a dog, find out if its coat will need to be kept trimmed short in order to lessen the amount of shedding. Another interesting fact is that some people are actually allergic to a dog&rsquo;s saliva, not to its dander. This isn&rsquo;t always easy to discover, since petting a dog and getting licked by that dog tends to be a package deal.  People with allergies who still want a dog should do their research and, ideally, take the opportunity to get up close to one of these hypoallergenic breeds to see if their allergies stay under control.";
	pawsText[149] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I just read your article about how people feel about their pets. I am one of the pet lovers who believes that they are part of our family. My husband and I have two teenage daughters and a 14-year-old deaf and blind border collie named Logan. I am Mom to Logan, my husband is Dad and our daughters are &ldquo;Sissy&rdquo; to her. We got her through a rescue league when she was about a year old. I am a big supporter of shelters and helped form Justice for Dogs with Amy Touchette in Wolcott, Vt. I&rsquo;m happy to see that the trend is going in the right direction about how to treat animals. Many people have told me over the years that when they die, they want to come back as my dog. If you had all day, I could give you the list of reasons why. Thank you. &mdash; Toni M., Hardwick, Vt.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read your column and have to put my say in, as I absolutely adore animals. They are great friends and are always there when people may not be. We had a cat about four years ago that had kittens and always killed the litters &mdash; until one day I got angry and saved the last kitten. As &ldquo;Socks&rdquo; grew attached he treated me as a mother, and to this day I feel he is my baby boy, even though I am just 18. I go so far as to give him a little birthday each November. &mdash; Sign me, Socks&rsquo; Mom in Illinois</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR TONI &amp; SOCK'S MOM</strong>:<br> \
	Wow, thanks for the great letters! I received quite a response to my question of pet owners. It&rsquo;s clear that owners care deeply for their pets, and that&rsquo;s positive news.";
	pawsText[150] = "Recently, I spoke with Dr. Karen &ldquo;Doc&rdquo; Halligan, a veterinarian and author who has appeared on shows like &ldquo;The Today Show&rdquo; and &ldquo;Animal Rescue 911.&rdquo; She is the author of &ldquo;What Every Pet Owner Should Know: Prescriptions for Happy, Healthy Cats and Dogs.&rdquo; Foremost on my mind was on how pet owners who are financially challenged &mdash; whether seniors on a fixed income, unemployed or otherwise having difficulties &mdash; could continue to keep their pets healthy. In addition to stressing the importance of preventive care, Halligan urges owners to tell their vet if they&rsquo;re having money problems. &ldquo;I tell owners, be up front with your vet,&rdquo; says Halligan. &ldquo;Say (that) money is a factor. Don&rsquo;t come in there and think that we&rsquo;re going to change the way we treat your pet because you tell us you can&rsquo;t afford it. That&rsquo;s not the case. We need to know if you&rsquo;re on a fixed income ... [to] come up with a game plan to keep your pet as healthy as possible and try to save you money.&rdquo; Here are a few tips from Halligan on affordably keeping pets healthy: &mdash;Flea and tick prevention in summer is paramount. Look for the first generic drug for pets, www.petarmor.com/PetArmor Plus, a topical solution that costs half as much as Frontline. It&rsquo;s available from vets as well as at Wal-Mart and Sam&rsquo;s Club. &mdash;Keep vaccinations up to date: diseases like parvo can be fatal to pets, but are completely preventable. &mdash;Pets need annual checkups: &ldquo;Animals age 7 years in 1 year,&rdquo; says Doc. &ldquo;If you (only) take them every three years, that&rsquo;s like 21 years (between checkups).&rdquo; Want to read more of my interview with Doc Halligan? Visit<a href="+pawsCornerLink+" target="+pawsCornerTarget+"> www.pawscorner.com</a>.";
	pawsText[151] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We had two dogs for the past six years. We just lost &ldquo;Sassy&rdquo; two days ago. Our remaining dog, &ldquo;Barry,&rdquo; is so sad. How can we help him? He barely eats, and he just lays around not showing interest in anything. I realize it is soon after losing his best friend, but is this normal? We are sad also, but want to help him if we can. &mdash; Norma in Ohio</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR NORMA</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s very normal for a dog to grieve for a lost companion, and Barry is showing all the signs of deep grief: loss of appetite, depression, lack of interest in things that normally stimulate him. In a few days, he may begin pacing around the house, searching for something &mdash; another common behavior, particularly after a dog loses a companion animal like Sassy. Be supportive of Barry over the next few months. Give him lots of love and attention. However, don&rsquo;t break his training routine or feeding routine, nor allow him to do things he normally wouldn&rsquo;t be allowed to do, like climb on the furniture. He needs structure as well as support. When Barry searches the house for her, call him over and give him a blanket or toy that Sassy liked to use and that still has her scent. Sometimes an item that reminds a pet of a lost companion is comforting. Other times the pet will reject the item &mdash; don&rsquo;t scold or force it on him. How long will Barry grieve? Like humans, there&rsquo;s no set time. Some dogs return to their old selves from two to six weeks after a loss; others take many months. And some always retain some sign that they still miss their old friend, years down the road.";
	pawsText[152] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We bathe and brush our dog &ldquo;Clint&rdquo; regularly and wash his bedding, but our apartment still smells kind of funky. Is there any way to totally rid our place of that dog odor? &mdash; Karen in Long Island, N.Y.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR KAREN</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m not sure it&rsquo;s 100 percent possible to completely get rid of pet odors, but you can tackle some common problem areas to minimize the odors. The American Kennel Club recently published some tips to combat pet odors, especially in hidden areas you might not have thought of:<br> \
	&mdash;Wash Clint&rsquo;s bed coverings and blankets every week.<br> \
	&mdash;Buy a spare set of bed coverings or blankets to swap out and wash.<br> \
	&mdash;Sweep and mop underneath the pet bed and in and around Clint&rsquo;s kennel cage at least once a week.<br> \
	&mdash;Cover throw pillows around the house with washable coverings.<br> \
	&mdash;Check under furniture or in other spots where Clint hides to make sure he isn&rsquo;t stashing old bones or leftovers there.<br> \
	&mdash;Once a month or whenever they start getting funky, wash Clint&rsquo;s toys with soapy water and let dry completely.<br> \
	&mdash;Before vacuuming the house, sprinkle baking soda over the carpet to absorb minor odors.<br> \
	&mdash;Wash other textiles more frequently, such as curtains and area rugs, to remove fur and odor.<br> \
	&mdash;If Clint has an accident indoors, clean up as quickly as possible, wash the spot with mild soap and water, and blot dry. If odor lingers in that spot, the padding underneath may be affected; air out by lifting the carpet away, or replace that section of carpet and padding.";
	pawsText[153] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m writing in regards to your recent column asking whether pets are more than just part of the family, and instead like another child. Some of your readers responded yes to that question. Like most pet owners, I have been very attached to our pets. However, I find the &ldquo;pets as children&rdquo; idea rather false as well as disrespectful to the animal.  Animals should be accepted for what they are, not remade into children. Most dogs are intelligent, adult animals, and it is insulting to treat them like silly little children. Also, most pets are spayed or neutered, and we would never do that to children or any other family members. We could use procedures that would prevent pregnancy, without eliminating sexual behavior, but in animals that behavior tends to be a nuisance. Pets can be a real blessing, and they should be respected. &mdash; Barbara B., via email</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR BARBARA</strong>:<br> \
	Those are very good points, and thank you for bringing them up! One of the most important things we can learn from caring for pets is compassion and respect for all animals, both tame and wild. Dogs and cats also require specific care, including, as Barbara points out, spaying or neutering to prevent unwanted litters and reduce the occurrence of abandoned or abused animals. Vaccines and licenses also are typically required by law. Your child doesn&rsquo;t have to wear visible tags, but your dog (and often your cat) does. Does this mean that owners somehow love their pets less? I think not &mdash; most are devoted to their pet and its welfare and happiness. That&rsquo;s something to be valued.";
	pawsText[154] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I just wanted to send you a note about something that occurred to me this morning. I was out for my morning run, and on almost every block I found myself waving and smiling to neighbors who were out walking their dogs. I take my own dog, &ldquo;Riley,&rdquo; out very early each morning, but at 11 years of age he&rsquo;s gotten too old to go running with me. Still, it struck me today how many of my neighbors I&rsquo;ve gotten to know just because we&rsquo;re all fellow dog owners. Even if we don&rsquo;t have long conversations, we all have commiserated over the chore of dragging ourselves out of bed early to walk our dogs, or chatted about how nice (or horrible) the weather is. I realized today that I&rsquo;m acquainted with at least one person on every street that&rsquo;s part of my running route. It&rsquo;s just a nice thought I had about how dogs bring people together. Hope you agree! &mdash; Riley&rsquo;s Mom in Albuquerque</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR RILEY'S MOM</strong>:<br> \
	That is a fantastic thought! I sometimes wonder about the friendships I might not have made if it weren&rsquo;t for my pets. I also think that seeing the same owners and their dogs every day is great for the dog, as well. We stop to catch up on gossip and weather, and our dogs get a chance to catch up on ... well, whatever they learn from sniffing each other. At any rate, it&rsquo;s a chance for both dogs and owners to socialize and stay friendly with the neighbors.";
	pawsText[155] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My pot-bellied pigs, &ldquo;Penny&rdquo; and &ldquo;Norman,&rdquo; again lost their hair very early this spring, when it was still very cold. Their skin was extremely itchy and very cracked and dry-looking. I contacted many vets, Humane Societies and others concerning this never-ending issue. Many told me that hair loss in pot-bellied pigs is normal, and there was nothing I could do. That was not good enough for me. Now I think I found something that is helping. I&rsquo;ve been adding safflower oil in with their food pellets &mdash; about a tablespoon each feeding.  They have not grown back any hair, since I just started this about three weeks ago. But I can tell they don&rsquo;t look as dry and they&rsquo;re not scratching as much.  I give safflower oil to my dogs and cats during the winter while our wood stove is operating, as they tend to get dry, flaky skin. The oil makes their fur very shiny. So I thought I would try it on my piggies. I hope this will help others who are going through this. Good luck! &mdash; Diane at Little Moose Farm</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR DIANE</strong>:<br> \
	Skin problems and hair loss in pot-bellied pigs is indeed very common, but troubling for owners. Pot-bellied pigs can &ldquo;blow their coats&rdquo; routinely after reaching about two years of age, and their skin can be dry during the period before their hair grows back. However, other problems can sometimes cause hair loss and dry, cracked skin as well, so it&rsquo;s always good to check with the vet when hair loss occurs. Many experts recommend adding a cod liver oil or fish oil supplement to the pigs&rsquo; food, and safflower oil may be a good alternative as well. This can help improve their dry skin while waiting for their coats to regrow.";
	pawsText[156] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	It seems the cost of pet food has risen, among other things. I have to feed my cat &ldquo;Barney&rdquo; a special diet that includes canned food I can only get from my vet. Is there any way I can cut costs on items like this without risking Barney&rsquo;s health? &mdash; May K., San Diego</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR MAY</strong>:<br> \
	There are always ways to find savings in our everyday budgets as well as pet care-related costs. Talk to your veterinarian about the brand of pet food Barney has to eat &mdash; is there a comparable product that doesn&rsquo;t cost so much? If you don&rsquo;t get a satisfactory answer, try searching for the pet food by name on the Internet. In addition to the food manufacturer&rsquo;s website where you may find coupons or other places where you can buy it, you may find forums where pet owners share information that could help you save money. Consumer Reports magazine recently published a series of articles on cutting pet-care costs. The report can be found in the August 2011 issue, or online at <a href="+petreportLink+" target="+petreportTarget+">http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine-archive/2011/august/money/pet-costs/overview/index.htm</a>.</p> \
	<p>Here is a brief summary of its tips:</p> \
	<p>&bull; If you&rsquo;re buying &ldquo;premium&rdquo; pet food, look around for comparable products that cost less, buy in bulk at a &ldquo;big box&rdquo; store, or look at store brands.</p> \
	<p>&bull; Concerned about veterinary costs? Shop around &mdash; check with other vets for their service rates.</p> \
	<p>&bull; The vet is no longer the only source of pet medicines: Walgreens, Giant/Eagle, Kroger and Target either have or are testing pet prescription programs.</p> \
	&bull; Keep up with preventive care: Schedule an annual checkup and vaccinations at the vet, and perform home health maintenance like feeding a healthy diet, brushing teeth, etc.";
	pawsText[157] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I recently received a report from the University of Missouri about a dog named &ldquo;Sugar,&rdquo; a Cocker Spaniel who was badly injured in the tornado that ravaged Joplin, Mo. When her owners grabbed her and ran for the safety of their basement shelter, &ldquo;Sugar, sensing the increased fear of her owners, became panicky and bolted back upstairs to her own &lsquo;safe area,&rdquo; a spot under one of the beds.&rsquo; With the tornado almost atop their house, the owners could not leave the shelter to retrieve her. Sugar survived the tornado, although she was badly injured and had lost use of her hind legs. Veterinarians at the University of Missouri performed emergency surgery to correct the injury to her spine. After many days of physical rehabilitation and therapy, Sugar is recovering with her owners. In addition to this encouraging story of recovery, what caught my interest was that Sugar&rsquo;s owners knew exactly where she preferred to hide when something scary was happening. This doesn&rsquo;t seem like much, but knowing your pet&rsquo;s favorite hiding places can be a lifesaving advantage in an emergency. With Sugar, unfortunately, this was not the case, as she was found several blocks away. There was nothing more her owners could do without putting themselves in mortal danger (something else that is important to keep in mind in an emergency).  But in a less extreme emergency, when there&rsquo;s time to gather the family and pets, or when your pet is having a health emergency, you&rsquo;ll be able to find your pet faster, or direct emergency personnel to where your pet normally hides, if you know where that hiding place is.";
	pawsText[158] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	What&rsquo;s your view of kennel cages? My wife hates the idea of using one to train our dog Sandy, but I disagree. What do you say? &mdash; Jerry in Las Cruces, N.M.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JERRY</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m personally OK with the concept of crating (or &ldquo;kennel cages&rdquo;). It&rsquo;s an effective way to housetrain a puppy (who won&rsquo;t soil a sleeping or living area) and teaches it to stay comfortable and relaxed in a similar container, the travel crate, which is essential to traveling with your dog. However, I do see frequent instances where the crate is misused, with negative consequences for dog and owner alike. The crate also serves as a home or den for your dog. So it always has to be seen by Sandy as a safe place to be, perhaps the safest place in the house for her. If you use the crate to punish Sandy, such as shutting her up in it when she&rsquo;s being hyperactive or disobedient, she could associate it with negative feelings and avoid going into it.  I recommend you learn as much as you can about using the crate to train Sandy. The American Dog Trainers Network has a list of tips on furnishing the crate, getting her to accept it and using it as a positive training tool. Find the list here: http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html. It also includes important safety tips, such as always removing Sandy&rsquo;s collar before putting her into the crate, and making sure she&rsquo;s not left in an environment that&rsquo;s too hot or freezing cold.";
	pawsText[159] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My 7-year-old dog, &ldquo;Cara,&rdquo; itches terribly and scratches all the time. She may have allergies, but I&rsquo;m not certain. I&rsquo;ve tried a number of treatments, including Benadryl, steroids, special shampoos and conditioners, sprays, pills, etc. I have her groomed regularly, and during the last trip had her fur shaved off because it tangles so badly when it&rsquo;s long. Nothing helps! Is there anything you could suggest? &mdash; A Reader, via e-mail</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR READER</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m sorry to hear how Cara is suffering. I&rsquo;m sure you&rsquo;ve taken her to the vet for a complete examination to rule out other underlying causes, but I do want to mention it for my other readers&rsquo; sake. Dogs can suffer from allergies to many of the same things we humans do. Allergens like dust and dander, as well as flea bites, can cause allergic symptoms. Certain foods also can cause allergic reactions including skin reactions, itching, diarrhea and vomiting.  You&rsquo;ve tried several common medications to relieve allergy symptoms, without any improvement. It&rsquo;s time to consult the veterinarian again. Look at Cara&rsquo;s diet, including snacks and &ldquo;sneaked&rdquo; food that you may have caught her trying to get at. Also note her home environment, where she spends most of her time, and the objects, carpeting and plants around her. Talk with the vet about any other possible causes of her allergies.";
	pawsText[160] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I wanted to add my two cents to the question, &ldquo;Are pets people too?&rdquo; I believe they are a big part of a family. Animals are smarter than people. Dogs are the only ones who are so happy to see us when we come home! &mdash; Anna L. M., Melbourne, Fla.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR ANNA</strong>:<br> \
	You make a good point! I&rsquo;ve never seen my dogs mope when I walked in the door; rather, they always are right there to greet me. Pets do enrich our lives, and many of us consider them to be a part of the family.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;m pretty sure I wouldn&rsquo;t be alive without my dog &ldquo;Blake.&rdquo; I&rsquo;m a senior citizen; my wife passed away three years ago, and most of my children live too far away to visit regularly. Blake sleeps at the side of my bed every night and at exactly 6 a.m. every morning he sits up next to me, licks my face until I&rsquo;m awake. He&rsquo;s so happy when I get out of bed that he turns in circles nonstop until I get dressed so I can take him out for his morning walk.<br> \
	At my last checkup, my doctor said those morning walks are helping keep my blood pressure under control and I seem in good spirits. I do enjoy taking care of Blake and he&rsquo;s the one who kept me going after my wife passed. Blake is family to me and no one can tell me different. Sign me &mdash; Stubborn Old Bob in Palmyra, N.Y.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BOB</strong>:<br> \
	That&rsquo;s telling &lsquo;em! Thank you for telling your story. It sounds like Blake is taking care of you as much as you take care of him.";
	pawsText[161] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read a recent column of yours where an owner said her cat tended to scratch and nip at her without warning. You said that the cat might have some socialization problems due to being a shelter pet, or might be experiencing some stress. Could I add that cats that are perfectly &ldquo;normal&rdquo; and loving also will scratch or nip if they are surprised or feel otherwise threatened. It&rsquo;s natural. &mdash; Cat Fan in Chicago</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CAT FAN</strong>:<br> \
	You&rsquo;re right; many cats will turn and scratch or nip when surprised. Others will bat or scratch at strangers or even family members who reach out to them. Why? Well, like humans, cats have varying levels of &ldquo;personal space,&rdquo; so to speak. And because they&rsquo;re fiercely independent, many have specific likes and dislikes &mdash; opinions that can vary from family member to family member. It&rsquo;s important to approach a cat, or any animal, with respect. Never sneak up behind or grab at a cat, and don&rsquo;t yell or make loud noises. Approach from an angle where it can see you clearly, and speak in a calm, reassuring voice. Hold out your hand for inspection, and let the cat come to you. It&rsquo;s possible to figure out the most important signals just from this move. If it sniffs at your hand, rubs its whiskers against it and backs away, the cat&rsquo;s not interested in being picked up or petted at the moment. If it approaches you after rubbing its whiskers against your hand, you&rsquo;re welcome to pet it. If it allows you to gently pick it up and doesn&rsquo;t struggle, great. If it jumps into your lap, you belong to it (just kidding &mdash; sort of!).";
	pawsText[162] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	During Hurricane Irene, I was kept busy contacting my town&rsquo;s superintendent&rsquo;s office on behalf of some of my older neighbors who were worried about evacuating with their pets. The misinformation about evacuating with pets was huge. Fortunately we were spared the flooding that took place in surrounding towns. After the storm, the fire chief told me my neighbors could have brought their pets with them as long as they were crated. Please let your readers know that many states, including Vermont, have pet evacuation laws on the books that specify exactly how and where owners can evacuate with their pets. Owners need to know them, because many emergency centers and local media did not, and citizens often were misinformed. &mdash; S.H., Bellows Falls, Vt.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR S.H.</strong>:<br> \
	Thank you for the heads-up! Readers, in 2006 following Hurricane Katrina, the federal government passed the PETS (Pet Evacuation and Transportation Standards) Act, which requires state and local governments to include companion pets in their disaster planning and evacuation plans. Laws in each state and municipality are slightly different, so it&rsquo;s important to familiarize yourself with the regulations where you reside prior to a natural disaster. For example, Louisiana and New York permit pets to ride on public transportation with their owners if an evacuation is declared. Check your state government&rsquo;s website (go to www.pawscorner.com for a list of links to each state&rsquo;s site) or contact the emergency planning agency by phone to get details. Of course, it&rsquo;s also important to include your pet in emergency planning at home. Keep your pet&rsquo;s travel crate and important documents together, along with a small kit containing food, treats, toys and medications so you can quickly grab them and go if needed.";
	pawsText[163] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Why does my dog, &ldquo;Jack,&rdquo; eat nonstop? If I don&rsquo;t hide his food, he will eat it all. He&rsquo;s even broken into the pantry where I kept his dog food and torn the bag open to get at it. Is there something wrong with him? &mdash; Kerrie J., via e-mail</p> \
	<strong>DEAR KERRIE</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s always wise to check with your veterinarian if your pet&rsquo;s behavior is worrisome to you. If Jack only recently started eating nonstop, tell the vet about this behavioral change. He or she may want to take a look at Jack to rule out any possible health issues. Many dog owners, however, find it necessary to hide the dog food and store any easy-to-open people food on high shelves where their dog can&rsquo;t reach. This is because many dogs will eat everything in sight for as long as they can, way past the point of being full. This doesn&rsquo;t just put them at risk of obesity, it puts them at risk of bloat, a condition that can be fatal. Eating people food also puts pets at risk for other conditions &mdash; for example, onions are poisonous to dogs, as is chocolate. Feed your dog according to the guidelines for his size and breed &mdash; often these are printed on the dog-food packaging, or you can ask the vet how much and how often he should eat. Make sure Jack cannot access any food, or the garbage, when unsupervised. If Jack overeats again, watch him closely for signs of bloat. These include sudden behavioral change, anxiety or restlessness, frequent attempts to vomit with no success, attempts to defecate without result, a bloated abdomen that may feel tight as a drum, and a hunched-over appearance. If you observe any of these, get Jack to the veterinarian immediately &mdash; do not wait.";
	pawsText[164] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I have just read your column about &ldquo;Cara,&rdquo; the 7-year-dog with skin allergies who itches and scratches terribly. My dog had this problem, too, and I was helped by the Tibetan Terrier Club of Canada with a very simple solution &mdash; run a humidifier for at least eight hours per day in the room where &ldquo;Cara&rdquo; sleeps. I did this with my scratchy fellow, and the problem was solved within a few days! Neither my vet nor groomer had ever heard of such a thing. I also switched to Science Diet Sensitive Skin kibbles. No more scratching at my house. Hope you can pass this on to Cara&rsquo;s owner. &mdash; Pattie R., via email</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR PATTIE</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks for the helpful advice! A change in diet and the humidifier may have a positive effect on Cara&rsquo;s allergies. Pets can be very sensitive to seemingly benign dog or cat foods, and it&rsquo;s often a trial-and-error process to find a diet that such pets can tolerate. Be sure to include your pet&rsquo;s veterinarian in the process so that he or she knows what your pet is eating and is able to offer advice and expertise that could help. The Tibetan Terrier Club of Canada can be found online at <a href="+tibetanTerrierLink+" target="+tibetanTerrierTarget+">www.tibetanterriercanada.com</a>. The site has general information about the Tibetan Terrier breed and basic care guidelines, as well as links to other Tibetan Terrier clubs around the world.</p> \
	Readers, have you found a diet or medical remedy for your allergic pet? Let others know by sending in your pet&rsquo;s story to ask@pawscorner.com, or write to Paw&rsquo;s Corner, c/o King Features Weekly Service, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475. For more pet care-related advice and information, visit www.pawscorner.com.";
	pawsText[165] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We adopted a beautiful, fluffy pup at a nearby shelter. A worker there described it as a Russian sheepdog. She said &ldquo;Curty&rdquo; should grow up into a large dog with a lot of energy. So far, I haven&rsquo;t found this to be true. Curty hasn&rsquo;t grown much beyond his height when we adopted him, and he doesn&rsquo;t seem to have the energy I have seen in shepherd breeds, although he is pretty playful and was easy to housebreak. Are there any health problems he might have, or do we just have a mixed breed dog that isn&rsquo;t going to take on purebred characteristics? &mdash; Jerry C., Burlington, Vt.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR JERRY</strong>:<br> \
	There are several types of sheepdogs hailing from Russia and surrounding regions, so it&rsquo;s hard to say exactly which breed you have. Indeed, you may have a mixed-breed dog, if the shelter wasn&rsquo;t able to provide any information on Curty&rsquo;s former home. The best thing to do is take Curty to the veterinarian for a checkup. Explain that he isn&rsquo;t growing as fast as you thought he would and that he doesn&rsquo;t have a lot of energy. The vet can check for any signs of underlying health issues. Curty could be a perfectly healthy pup, but just a mixed-breed dog who is developing normally and won&rsquo;t be very big. An even-tempered, playful, well-socialized, easy-to-train dog isn&rsquo;t a bad thing. But do make sure that he&rsquo;s healthy and that there are no hidden health problems.";
	pawsText[166] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My dog barks and howls at everything, whether it's the lawnmower next door or the neighborhood kids playing down the street. He barks at night; he barks when we're at work. It's embarrassing, really. My neighbors have complained about it, but I don't know what to do to stop &quot;Jellyroll&quot; from barking. -- Claire S., Orlando, Fla.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR CLAIRE</strong>:<br> \
	It sounds to me as if Jellyroll is anxious about the strange noises he hears outside, and also feels anxious when you're not at home or asleep in a separate room. Separation anxiety is a very common problem in dogs. Aggression barking also is a common issue. But they can be dealt with. To reduce separation anxiety, you must work to increase Jellyroll's confidence that you are not abandoning him when you leave his sight. One way to do this is to have him sit and stay near an exit door. Step outside the door and shut it. Does he begin to bark? Now, step inside and have him sit and stay again -- don't allow him to jump up. Repeat these steps until Jellyroll no longer howls when you step outside -- and when he doesn't howl, give him a treat each time after you come back in. This could take several sessions, so don't lose heart. To help deal with his barking at outside noises, socialize Jellyroll further. Introduce him to one or two humans at a time, max, when they visit or when out for a walk. When a scary noise like a lawnmower sets him off, have him sit and stay and give him lots of encouragement and praise as long as he stays and doesn't bark. There are numerous training techniques you can try, and I recommend working with a trainer to learn more and possibly get even faster results.";
	pawsText[167] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	We have several apparently stray cats that can be seen wandering the neighborhood in the early morning and at night. I&rsquo;m not sure where they came from, but there is a large stand of pine trees and scrub behind our subdivision. I&rsquo;m afraid to let my cats out even during the day, as I worry they could come in contact with or be attacked by one of these strays. What can I do? &mdash; Gary in Tampa</p> \
	<strong>DEAR GARY</strong>:<br> \
	Contact your local animal-control office about the stray cats. They may be a colony of feral cats &mdash; cats that have lived their entire lives apart from humans. If so, they most likely can&rsquo;t be socialized. This is an ongoing problem in Florida, particularly, as feral cat colonies grow in suburban areas. And yes, it makes going outside somewhat dangerous for your housecats. If possible, keep them indoors at all times. If you have a screened enclosure, they can hang out there, as long as the screen has no holes that would allow them to escape. Keep your cats&rsquo; immunizations up to date, as diseases like FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus) and rabies are common among feral cat populations. If one of your cats is attacked or you see it in contact with a feral cat, take your cat straight to the vet. Now, it is possible that animal control will not trap the cats wandering your neighborhood. Or, they may catch them, yet you&rsquo;ll see more cats turn up. What some animal welfare groups are doing &mdash; since shelters are full already &mdash; is trapping the cats, having them spayed or neutered and given immunizations, and then releasing them back to their colony. The hope is that fewer breeding cats will reduce the feral population.";
	pawsText[168] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Last Halloween, our dog &quot;Valiant&quot; ran into the room as my kids were tearing into their trick-or-treat candy and ate several wrappers and a couple of pieces of chocolate. We had to rush him to the emergency pet hospital in another town. Fortunately, he only had to stay overnight for observation and he passed the wrappers without incident, but the veterinary assistant said that they see incidents like this every year at Halloween. Please remind your readers not to let their pets near all the goodies being handed out, as they're not healthy (and can even be poisonous) and they could ingest dangerous items like candy wrappers. -- Beth in Madison, Wisc.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR BETH</strong>:<br> \
	Thank you for the reminder! Halloween is a fun holiday for kids and families, but it can be a dangerous time for your pets if precautions aren't taken.</p> \
	<p>- Keep candy bowls and treats on a high counter or shelf where pets can't reach.</p> \
	<p>- Monitor your pets at all times as trick-or-treaters wander the neighborhood so they don't ingest anything harmful, and to keep approaching children safe.</p> \
	<p>- If you're having a Halloween party or if your pet is very excitable, confine it to a quiet room or kennel cage with food, toys and a blanket or cushion until the festivities are over. Check in periodically.</p> \
	- If you see or suspect your pet has ingested chocolate, wrappers or any other dangerous item, contact the veterinarian or emergency pet clinic immediately.";
	pawsText[169] = "Just in time for fall, here&rsquo;s a selection of pet-related books to enjoy on a blustery evening. This month&rsquo;s selection features odes to irrepressible dogs, humorous anecdotes, a bit of mystery and some training advice, of course. &ldquo;A Pug&rsquo;s Tale&rdquo; by Alison Pace (Penguin Group) is the author&rsquo;s second foray into the wonderful world of pugs &mdash; this time in a fictional setting. Heroine Hope McNeill and her beloved pug Max hunt down a priceless painting that&rsquo;s gone missing from New York&rsquo;s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Psychologist and dog expert Stanley Coren pens a loving ode to Flint, his Cairn terrier, in &ldquo;Born to Bark: My Adventures with an Irrepressible and Unforgettable Dog&rdquo; (Free Press). But it&rsquo;s also an autobiography of his own journey, with and without pets. Well-written and touching, this is an enjoyable and inspiring read. &ldquo;All My Patients Kick and Bite&rdquo; is veterinarian Jeff Wells&rsquo; second memoir about the joys and pains of caring for farm, domestic and &ldquo;not-so-domestic&rdquo; animals. From an escaped dog to an ornery llama, Wells&rsquo; anecdotes are humorous looks at caring for animals in a rural area. Finally, if you&rsquo;re looking for a book that covers the basics of obtaining, training and raising a puppy, look for &ldquo;The Dog Trainer&rsquo;s Complete Guide to a Happy Well-Behaved Pet&rdquo; (St. Martin&rsquo;s Press). Author Jolanta Bental details everything from choosing a new dog to training and socializing, dealing with common behavior problems and keeping your dog healthy. Anyone considering getting a dog, especially first-time owners, should have a training and care manual close at hand, and Bental&rsquo;s guide fits the bill.";
	pawsText[170] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I read your article on the Bichon Frise that had skin allergies with interest. My own Bichon Frise, &ldquo;Ally,&rdquo; had severe skin allergies. The manager of my local pet store recommended that I look for a dry dog food that had a single protein (rather than proteins from different sources). I tried one called &ldquo;Dick Van Patten&rsquo;s Natural Balance.&rdquo; In a very short time, Ally&rsquo;s skin allergy was cleared up. I hope this information will help your readers. &mdash; Dorothy C., Richfield, Minn.</p> \
	<strong>DEAR BETH</strong>:<br> \
	Thanks! The type of food recommended is also known as &ldquo;limited ingredient&rdquo; food and is developed specifically for pets with sensitive stomachs or that have skin rashes or other allergic reactions to food. Other manufacturers of limited ingredient pet food include Blue Buffalo with its &ldquo;Basics&rdquo; line of foods, Nature&rsquo;s Variety Instinct Limited Ingredient, Wellness Dog Simple Food Solutions, and Pinnacle. Owners whose pets have allergies can try one or more of the foods above to see if the problem clears up. Another alternative is to make food for your pet from scratch, avoiding or limiting ingredients that can cause an upset stomach or skin reaction. These ingredients include dairy, fish, corn, wheat, soy and yeast. Beef, chicken, fish or lamb also may cause problems, and owners making homemade food should feed each meat individually to their pet to determine which one is tolerated best. To make the most nutritious and safest homemade food, owners should check out at least one pet food recipe book. There are some ingredients, like onions, that should never be included in a pet&rsquo;s meal.";
	pawsText[171] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My golden retriever, &ldquo;Jessie,&rdquo; recently turned 9 years old. He&rsquo;s always been an energetic dog, but he doesn&rsquo;t seem to like walking as far as he used to, and when chasing birds in the park, he only chases them a few feet before trotting back to me. He also has some digestive issues. Is this normal for an older dog, or should I worry that he&rsquo;s got some hidden health issue? &mdash; Sam L., Atlanta</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR SAM</strong>:<br> \
	Nine years is definitely &ldquo;senior dog&rdquo; territory, and it is normal even for very energetic dogs to begin to noticeably slow down. Their dietary needs and their digestive system also go through gradual change. If Jessie isn&rsquo;t showing signs of distress or extreme lethargy, he&rsquo;s probably OK. However, as his owner, you know him best, so if his behavior or digestion concern you, take him to the veterinarian for a checkup. Senior dogs do have unique needs that owners should address.</p> \
	Heidi Ganahl, owner of Camp Bow Wow, recently listed a few considerations senior dog owners should take:<br> \
	&mdash;Schedule a veterinary checkup every six months, rather than once a year. A senior pet&rsquo;s health can change rapidly.<br> \
	&mdash;Learn the signs of common ailments in senior dogs, like hip and joint problems, diabetes and eye or ear issues. <br> \
	&mdash;Feed your senior dog two smaller meals per day, rather than one. This may help with digestive problems. <br> \
	&mdash;Consider adding at least two fresh meals to your dog&rsquo;s diet per week. The added nutrition can be a big help. <br> \
	&mdash;Replace long runs or walks with shorter jaunts followed by a daily training or toy romp.";
	pawsText[172] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I see more and more dogs, of all sizes, wearing little booties when outside in winter temperatures. Aren&rsquo;t dogs&rsquo; paws designed to deal with rough terrain and cold weather? Why do owners feel like they have to protect their pets&rsquo; paws? &mdash; Jerry in Kansas City, Mo.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR SAM</strong>:<br> \
	Actually, booties are a pretty smart idea for pets in wintertime, and it&rsquo;s not a new idea. Sled drivers in the Arctic have put them on their dogs&rsquo; paws for centuries to protect them from rough terrain and jagged ice. Booties also protect existing paw or foot injuries. That booties are catching on among owners of pets of every size is perhaps due to the increasing variety available. But they serve the same practical purpose: They protect pets&rsquo; feet from icy cold surfaces, rough ground and other winter hazards. The leathery pads on the bottom of dogs&rsquo; paws can withstand mild temperatures and most terrain, but they are not invulnerable. Extremely cold surfaces can cause frostbite or worse. Stepping on urban hazards like glass or sharp chunks of concrete can scratch or cut the foot pads, which is very painful for the dog. The soft skin between each pad also is very sensitive and easily can be scratched if debris gets caught between the pads. Owners who don&rsquo;t opt to fit their dogs with booties in the winter before bringing them outside should check their dog&rsquo;s paws each time it comes back inside to make sure the pads are uninjured and nothing is caught between them.";
	pawsText[173] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	Is it possible to give too much catnip to a cat? And, is dried catnip as potent as fresh? &mdash; Gina in Flint, Mich.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR SAM</strong>:<br> \
	I&rsquo;ve seen cats react to catnip in a variety of different ways &mdash; from tearing around the house to lounging draped across furniture &mdash; but have not read of a cat actually &ldquo;overdosing&rdquo; on the herb. Nepetalactone is the chemical that produces a cat&rsquo;s distinct reaction to catnip. It&rsquo;s released when the plant is bruised, which is why you&rsquo;ll often see a cat rubbing against and biting fresh catnip. According to various sources, the cat&rsquo;s &ldquo;high&rdquo; is produced when it sniffs the bruised leaves or stems; eating catnip produces a sedative effect. Cats generally lose interest in catnip once they&rsquo;ve had enough. As to whether fresh or dried catnip is better, or equally potent, dried catnip can be just as effective, although like any dried herb, the age of the catnip and how it has been stored can affect its potency. That&rsquo;s one reason to look carefully at brands of dried catnip or catnip-impregnated toys before purchasing. Pet owners can grow their own catnip on the windowsill, in full sun (out of reach of the cat until it&rsquo;s strong enough to put up with a cat&rsquo;s devoted attention) and either present it fresh to the cat or trim the mature plant and hang it upside down to dry. Finally, what to do if you place catnip in front of your pet and it shows no interest? Walk away for a while &mdash; it will either get interested eventually or not, but most cats can&rsquo;t be forced to ingest or play with catnip.";
	pawsText[174] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My friend has a Border Collie mix, &ldquo;Jeffy,&rdquo; who is about two or three years old. He snorts or coughs at least 10 or 15 times a day, and when he does, a copious amount of mucus comes out of his nose. Can you tell me what causes this and how to remedy it? &mdash; B.P., Prince George, Va.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR B.P.</strong>:<br> \
	Coughing in dogs can have a number of causes, ranging from allergy to serious infection. The first thing your friend needs to do is take Jeffy to the veterinarian to rule out a dangerous illness like kennel cough or other infection, or an injury. Your friend should let the vet know how long Jeffy has had this cough, if he was recently boarded or regularly goes to doggy day care, and if his shots are up to date. Jeffy also should be regularly treated with a heartworm preventive; if he isn&rsquo;t, your friend must let the doctor know. If Jeffy dealt with a recent flea infestation, let the vet know.  If Jeffy is diagnosed with an illness &mdash; respiratory infections can happen to any dog &mdash; the vet will determine the type of infection and prescribe medicine to treat it. He also may prescribe a cough suppressant to give the dog a little relief from the coughing.  If Jeffy gets a clean bill of health, your friend will want to look into other causes of his cough and mucus, such as seasonal allergies, a food allergy or an environmental allergy such as dampness and/or mold in the house. Treatment, along with reduced exposure to the allergen that&rsquo;s causing the problem, can make a big difference.";
	pawsText[175] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	This weekend I took my dog &ldquo;Marty,&rdquo; a dachshund-beagle mix, out to some property, where she sniffed and sniffed and dug and sniffed and sniffed. I think she had her nose buried in the rocky soil for so long that she gave herself a rather large (maybe the size of a nickel) blister on her upper lip. It&rsquo;s not puffy &mdash; just a raw patch under her nose, and she licks at it. I saw something saying that canola oil or olive oil might help chapped lips, but this seems like a larger area. Any tips? &mdash; Matt P., via email</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR MATT</strong>:<br> \
	First, I have to caution that it&rsquo;s always wise to consult your dog&rsquo;s vet. With that out of the way, I&rsquo;d say the best thing to do would be to treat the raw patch like you would a blister or a raw patch on your own nose. Keep the area clean, rub a bit of Neosporin over it two or three times daily and watch it closely. Marty probably will lick off the antibiotic ointment within a minute or two of application, but in such small quantities it isn&rsquo;t a problem to ingest. A Band-Aid probably will cause more discomfort and trouble than it prevents. You also can ask your vet for topical medicine to reduce any discomfort and thereby reduce her licking of the area so it can heal faster.  If it is indeed just a raw patch caused by friction, the area should heal up within a few days. But do keep a close eye on it: If the patch looks like its getting infected or otherwise changes for the worse, take Marty to the vet right away.";
	pawsText[176] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My stepdaughter Susan is getting married on the day after Christmas, in the Bahamas. A lot of her relatives, including myself, are rather miffed about the date and location. But even more outrageous are her plans for the wedding itself. She&rsquo;s decided that her yellow Lab, &ldquo;Briny,&rdquo; will serve as the ring bearer! I&rsquo;m not sure how she plans to pull this off, but I think it&rsquo;s really inappropriate. How can I tell her this without upsetting her? &mdash; Joyce L., Deerfield Beach, Fla.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JOYCE</strong>:<br> \
	I don&rsquo;t think there&rsquo;s a way to say what&rsquo;s on your mind without upsetting her, because you&rsquo;re unhappy with the wedding plans overall. Personally, I think it sounds really fun that Briny has such an important place in the wedding. Susan does need to make sure that Briny can make the trip over to the Bahamas. The website <a href="+bahamasLink+" target="+bahamasTarget+">www.bahamas.com</a> has details on getting a pet import permit, but the most important detail is that Briny must have up-to-date shots and Susan must bring the written record of those immunizations with her.  So, the most you can and should do is double-check with Susan that she has taken care of these requirements for Briny and that she&rsquo;s staying in accommodations that allow pets. This close to the wedding, it&rsquo;s probably best not to go into any other details. If you&rsquo;ve accepted the invitation and finalized your travel plans, go to the wedding, enjoy a fruity beverage (preferably with an umbrella), and be happy.";
	pawsText[177] = "<p>There&rsquo;s a good crop of pet books this season, but two really stand out from the pack of training and pet-care tomes I normally receive. These are perfect for curling up with beside the fire in the new year.</p> \
	<p>You might, or might not, remember the story of the library cat named Dewey, who ruled the Spencer, Iowa, public library for nearly two decades as its resident cat. Library director Vicki Myron along with author Bret Witter published a series of books about Dewey. Now, they&rsquo;re back with another great addition to the plucky cat&rsquo;s story: &ldquo;Dewey&rsquo;s Nine Lives: The Legacy of the Small-Town Library Cat Who Inspired Millions&rdquo; (New American Library). Myron and Witter present nine true stories of cats and their people, illustrating the way pets affect and change our lives for the better.</p> \
	If you&rsquo;re more interested in a good piece of fiction, take a break with &ldquo;Walking Back to Happiness&rdquo; (Berkeley Books) by Lucy Dillon. It&rsquo;s a well-composed, smart tale of Juliet, who is grieving the recent loss of her husband and rarely leaves the house except to walk her husband&rsquo;s terrier, Minton. Her mother and sister both try to lift her spirits in between their own busy lives, but it isn&rsquo;t until Juliet begins walking her mother&rsquo;s aging Lab, Coco, that things begin to change. It&rsquo;s a sensitive depiction of grief and healing, with a bit of romance thrown in.";
	pawsText[178] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My pet rabbit, a lop-ear named &ldquo;Jake,&rdquo; seems pretty active and alert. He flicks his ears when I hold a treat out for him, and I noticed he does the same when I move my hand in a similar way even when there is no treat. Do you think a rabbit could be trained similar to the way a dog is trained? &mdash; Clarissa T., Butte, Mont.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JOYCE</strong>:<br> \
	According to animal trainer Barbara Heidenreich, it&rsquo;s entirely possible to do so; in fact, she&rsquo;s trained two of her rabbits to do agility courses. Heidenreich uses positive-reinforcement training to teach her rabbits to perform on cue. One lop-eared rabbit, Loretta, &ldquo;runs a seven-piece agility course, retrieves, spins in a circle and digs on cue. Loretta was adopted as an adult and learned most of her tricks in just a few weeks,&rdquo; according to a promotional release by pet behavior and training-products company Good Bird Inc. Heidenreich says that positive reinforcement training isn&rsquo;t just for teaching pet tricks; owners also can use this method to address problem behaviors and, overall, get more connected to their pets. As these fluffy animals become more and more popular as pets, she feels that learning to do more than just care for rabbits is necessary but also rewarding. If you&rsquo;d like to learn more about training Jake to do tricks, visit <a href="+bunnytrainingLink+" target="+bunnytrainingTarget+">www.bunnytraining.com</a>, Heidenreich&rsquo;s site.";
	pawsText[179] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My family would like to adopt a shelter dog, and a recent news story about several dogs rescued from horrible conditions in a &ldquo;puppy mill&rdquo; facility really captured our hearts. However, the shelter caring for these dogs is not immediately putting them up for adoption, and it says there will be stricter requirements for those who want to adopt them. Why is this? &mdash; Karl in South Florida</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR KARL</strong>:<br> \
	Many shelter pets come with their own special set of behavioral quirks, often due to the stress and trauma of being abandoned at a shelter. But dogs (and cats and other pets) that suffer especially traumatic situations, such as abuse or starvation or neglect, can have a very difficult time adapting to home life.  Because of this, many shelters have developed special policies regarding these rescues. As you found, the puppy-mill dogs were not immediately put up for adoption; they&rsquo;re being treated and evaluated. Some may never be considered safe to adopt. Once dogs are considered healthy enough to adopt, the shelter is following guidelines to make their transition to a new home as smooth as possible. For instance, it may not allow a puppy-mill rescue to go to a home that has kids under age 10. First-time pet owners will likely be discouraged or outright not allowed to adopt. Adopters may need to attend special classes, and the shelter may ask to make follow-up visits to the dog&rsquo;s new home. Many rescues need a great deal of one-on-one attention, love and patience. If you&rsquo;re an experienced dog owner, meet the guidelines and are willing to take on the challenge of rehabilitating a rescued dog, go for it. But if you&rsquo;re not sure, then consider very carefully whether your family is ready to care for a rescued pet.";
	pawsText[180] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	I recently read on your website about a North Carolina county board that wanted to disallow adoptions of certain dog breeds from its shelter. The proposal was defeated thanks to a huge public outcry, but what about other rulings that don&rsquo;t get as much publicity? How do we find out about them, and how can we get enough public support to stop unfair pet laws? &mdash; Jane in Missouri</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JANE</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s great that you&rsquo;re concerned and want to be more active in the area of pet legislation. The North Carolina case was a classic example of legislators (or in this case, a county board) proposing pet laws based upon popular but often inaccurate information, particularly about &ldquo;bully breeds&rdquo; (pit bulls, Doberman pinschers, etc). The county board shelved its proposal after receiving tens of thousands of emails and facing a packed house of dog owners, rescuers and other advocates at its board meeting. Getting started can be as simple as an Internet search. Major organizations such as the Humane Society of the United States, the SPCA (Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) and growing organizations like the No-Kill Advocacy Center are good websites to start with. You often can find local chapters or local advocacy organizations through larger nonprofits&rsquo; websites. Facing down local legislators is just one facet of animal advocacy. If you want to learn more about protecting pets, pick up &ldquo;Defending the Defenseless: A Guide to Protecting and Advocating for Pets,&rdquo; by Allie Phillips (Rowman and Littlefield). Phillips is an attorney and animal-rights advocate, and her book is packed with information on ways you can become more active.";
	pawsText[181] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	A friend of mine recently commented that when she brought her new cat home last year, she immediately had to put protective caps on all the electrical outlets because the cat kept trying to stick her claws into them. Do cats really do that? Mine doesn&rsquo;t. &mdash; Sarah in Burlington, Vt.</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR SARAH</strong>:<br> \
	It&rsquo;s not unheard of, as cats are curious, like to explore and often find certain things fascinating (while being totally uninterested in other things, like the expensive catnip-infused designer mouse I bought for my cat last Christmas. Not that I&rsquo;m bitter about that). Because of this, and because no one is ever totally sure what a cat will take a keen interest in, cat-proofing the areas in which your cat roams is essential. Make sure it can&rsquo;t access the places where you store cleaning supplies or human food (some of which can be poisonous to cats). Put houseplants, particularly those from the lily family, out of reach &mdash; or even better, out of the house &mdash; as they can be deadly to cats when ingested. Don&rsquo;t let the cat access areas like the garage, workshop or the utility room. Be aware of where your cat is before you open the front door, so that it doesn&rsquo;t slip outside. Because cats tend to be much more low-maintenance than dogs, most pet owners don&rsquo;t think much about taking precautions keep their cats away from dangerous areas. Do what&rsquo;s necessary to keep them safe from potential hazards.";
	pawsText[182] = "<p><strong>DEAR PAW'S CORNER</strong>:<br> \
	My German shepherd, &ldquo;Silky,&rdquo; is 10 years old and has developed hip dysplasia, which makes her pretty uncomfortable. She avoids slippery floors and she hates the tub, but I need to give her a bath. Any way I can do this better to keep her comfortable? &mdash; Jack T., Oklahoma City</p> \
	<p><strong>DEAR JACK</strong>:<br> \
	There are a few ways to help Silky stay comfortable while being bathed. First, try placing a large, wet towel in the tub that she can stand on to gain traction. Lift her into the high-sided tub rather than make her jump in. Shepherds are large dogs, so if need be, work with a second person and tandem lift her, with one of you cradling under her chest and the other cradling her midsection and then tucking the other arm between her back legs and supporting her belly. A step-in shower is an even better option, if you have one. Again, put down a wet towel so that she feels secure standing or sitting. In warm weather, you could set up an inflatable kiddie pool and fill it with warm water. This gives big dogs enough room to sit or even lie down during their bath, and they can just walk into it over the low sides. During the bath itself it&rsquo;s important to work fast. Keep Silky&rsquo;s collar and leash on so you can hold her still as you wet her down (either with warm water scooped in a cup or using a sprayer attachment), add soap (only soap formulated for use on dogs), then rinse. Talk soothingly through the whole process. Once complete, lift her out of the tub onto a nonslip rug and towel-dry her fur, then give her lots of praise and a treat.";
	pawsText[183] = "<p><strong>DEAR READERS</strong>:<br> \
	February is Responsible Pet Owners Month, and while I sometimes grouse about events that designate a specific period of the year to do something that should obviously be done every single day, I think it&rsquo;s a worthy way to enlighten new pet owners or those thinking about getting a pet on how to care for that pet. So, how can you be a responsible pet owner?</p> \
	<p> If you&rsquo;re considering getting a pet:<br> \
	&mdash;Study and learn all you can about the pet or breed you&rsquo;re interested in.<br> \
	&mdash;Consider adopting from a shelter or rescue.<br> \
	&mdash;Avoid buying dogs from puppy mills, at flea markets or other sketchy places.<br> \
	&mdash;If buying from a breeder, research and consider carefully before making a purchase.</p> \
	<p>If you already have a pet:<br> \
	&mdash;Spay or neuter your pet.<br> \
	&mdash;Do more than just provide food, water and shelter: Give your pet lots of love and attention.<br> \
	&mdash;Teach your children how to properly care for pets and how to play responsibly with them.<br> \
	&mdash;Provide regular, daily obedience training to your dog.<br> \
	&mdash;Keep your cat indoors.<br> \
	&mdash;When taking your dog out for a walk, follow your town&rsquo;s leash laws and pick up after it.<br> \
	&mdash;At dog parks, follow the posted rules. Owners who don&rsquo;t follow rules can put the park at risk of being shut down. Don&rsquo;t be that guy.</p> \
	There are, of course, many other ways to be a responsible pet owner. But this is a good time to review the way you care for your pets, the routines you&rsquo;ve fallen into, the training you&rsquo;ve meant to start &mdash; and to plan new fun and activities for your pets and family.";
	
	
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